Be advised tho, that the Electro-mechanical regulator, being a glorified set of points, they can stick in the "on" position, and when they do, the alternator goes into overdrive. It's output increases directly with rpm, until it cooks everything. If this happens at night, and the headlamps take the first hit, well there you are on the side of the road.
BTW
The way that the older VR works is by continuously turning the alternator field circuit on and off, to keep it's output in the magic window that the battery can work with. Because it is continually switching, the points experience metal transfer from one side to the other, and even erosion, and eventually, they either wear out or naturally become unreliable....... or fail in the "on" position welded permanently in that position.
Whereas
The electronic VR has a transistor doing that job with NO moving parts; and they rarely fail, unless the case loses ground, and then they fail in the "open-circuit" mode and you drive until the battery runs out of juice. At night, the lights just get more and more dim. If you see it happening, you just go fix the ground and all is back to normal.
Since 1970/71 I have only ever had one Electronic Regulator fail in the "on" condition, which then caused the voltage to spike at 20 volts..... and this was a Mopar Constant Voltage one that I bought out of the DC catalog. Silly me..... lol.