10s for 10k can i do it?

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w2360Duster said:
Ok im going to try and break into the 10s for under 10k with out the use of NO2. Heres what i have now and cost involved.

I bought a modified 73 Duster off craigslist for $2000 to find it had a spun bearing argh. Now what the car had was a healthy 71 .040 360 with a victor, 700 dp, ported 360 heads and a .509 with adj 273 type rocker arms.

Also a ProTrans low gear 904 with looks like 11" convertor a 4.10 8 3/4 with BB and 8" weld pro Stars in the rear and 3.5"s in the front.

So far i bought a Forged 4340 forged Eagle 4.0 Stroker kit thats including H beam rods, ross .040 pistons rings and bearings. $1675 delivered

Indy RhS 360X heads (bare) $660 delivered

Hedman 1 7/8" primary 3 1/2" col Hustler race headers off Ebay $210 delivered

Moroso 8 qt pan with pickup and new oil HV pump new/used $140

Milidon main studs and Felpro gasket kit and hi pressure oil pump spring around $170

The Block is being machined and balanced, i should be picking it up tommorow aprox. $475 with cam bearings and freeze plugs .

I think that adds up to $5330 , i know i can be expecting to spend a easy 2000 to $2500 on valve train and head work.

On the list also is going to be a 4500 convertor, a Holley 950 and?? im probably forgeting a few things. I do have some odds ans ends laying around that i can sell off the car to offset the cost but can it be done. Any ideas
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Ok, I think it is possible with a few changes. Motor is Fine...........Put some Caltracs on it and Slam a 250 shot of Juice down its throat and BAM.....Low 10's with ease!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Mad Dart said:
Ok, I think it is possible with a few changes. Motor is Fine...........Put some Caltracs on it and Slam a 250 shot of Juice down its throat and BAM.....Low 10's with ease!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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He already stated he wants to do it without the use of nitrous...ANYONE can put spray on a motor,doing it naturaly aspirated is much more rewarding...
 
... and I'll add it's missing a ton of safety stuff for those ETs. Running a mid ten sitting in a stripped unibody to keep it under 2500 lbs might be ok for spome guys. But I'm expecting to see a car that passes tech and runs faster than 10.99 more than once. It's a lofty goal IMO. The last complete car I priced for that area was twice that.
 
Update, I purchased a SFI approvoved flexplate (100% identical to B&M) off Epay $45 shipped, splurged on some Hughes Brand rockers for $369 shipped (I have some nice banana groove shafts im going to use) and lastley a Cheap China made SFI approved hasmonic balancer off Epay for $90 shipped (maybee my downfall?)

I sent the RHS Indy cylinder heads to a local who suppose to know his stuff big time. I have no idea how much the heads are going to cost? maybee $1000 to $1500? I have decided to run a hyd roller so there will be another $900+ .. we will see???
 
I sent the RHS Indy cylinder heads to a local who suppose to know his stuff big time. I have no idea how much the heads are going to cost? maybee $1000 to $1500? I have decided to run a hyd roller so there will be another $900+ .. we will see???[/quote]

I just got my heads back from BJR, the INDY/RHS X Heads. I had Cometic Gaskets but found out they wont work. You can run Felpro's supposedly but I am checking for sure. I also got a call into Flat Out I will let you know what actually works. The water jackets are just a tad off...........dont forget to check this out before assembly!!!
 
w2360Duster said:
Update, I purchased a SFI approvoved flexplate (100% identical to B&M) off Epay $45 shipped, splurged on some Hughes Brand rockers for $369 shipped (I have some nice banana groove shafts im going to use) and lastley a Cheap China made SFI approved hasmonic balancer off Epay for $90 shipped (maybee my downfall?)

I sent the RHS Indy cylinder heads to a local who suppose to know his stuff big time. I have no idea how much the heads are going to cost? maybee $1000 to $1500? I have decided to run a hyd roller so there will be another $900+ .. we will see???
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If your spending that kind of money on heads,you'd be better off with a set of Edelbrocks..
 
stroked 340 said:
If your spending that kind of money on heads,you'd be better off with a set of Edelbrocks..
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FYI............Using an out of the box comparison,The Indy/RHS X Heads flow more than the Eddy'sl............Doing work to them is like putting Icing on the cake!
You are right though for about 1k you can run a set of the Indy/RHS X Heads completly set up from Hughes with stainless valves and they will take a max of around .520 lift before any work needs to be done to them.

Head gaskets are another issue!!!!
 
Mad Dart said:
FYI............Using an out of the box comparison,The Indy/RHS X Heads flow more than the Eddy'sl............Doing work to them is like putting Icing on the cake!
You are right though for about 1k you can run a set of the Indy/RHS X Heads completly set up from Hughes with stainless valves and they will take a max of around .520 lift before any work needs to be done to them.

Head gaskets are another issue!!!!
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I agree LOL , well i was going to use Felpro gaskets, maybee the 1008s if necessary, but i will look into that, thanks.
 
w2360Duster said:
Ok im going to try and break into the 10s for under 10k with out the use of NO2. Heres what i have now and cost involved.

I bought a modified 73 Duster off craigslist for $2000 to find it had a spun bearing argh. Now what the car had was a healthy 71 .040 360 with a victor, 700 dp, ported 360 heads and a .509 with adj 273 type rocker arms.

Also a ProTrans low gear 904 with looks like 11" convertor a 4.10 8 3/4 with BB and 8" weld pro Stars in the rear and 3.5"s in the front.

So far i bought a Forged 4340 forged Eagle 4.0 Stroker kit thats including H beam rods, ross .040 pistons rings and bearings. $1675 delivered

Indy RhS 360X heads (bare) $660 delivered

Hedman 1 7/8" primary 3 1/2" col Hustler race headers off Ebay $210 delivered

Moroso 8 qt pan with pickup and new oil HV pump new/used $140

Milidon main studs and Felpro gasket kit and hi pressure oil pump spring around $170

The Block is being machined and balanced, i should be picking it up tommorow aprox. $475 with cam bearings and freeze plugs .

I think that adds up to $5330 , i know i can be expecting to spend a easy 2000 to $2500 on valve train and head work.

On the list also is going to be a 4500 convertor, a Holley 950 and?? im probably forgeting a few things. I do have some odds ans ends laying around that i can sell off the car to offset the cost but can it be done. Any ideas
Click to expand...

Sure can. Easily. I did 11.0 in a '71 Duster for $3300 and would have went 10's if I knew what I know now! It was primered but I did not care. It did 1.50 60 foots with SS springs and a snubber.
 
Mopar-Man said:
Sure can. Easily. I did 11.0 in a '71 Duster for $3300 and would have went 10's if I knew what I know now! It was primered but I did not care. It did 1.50 60 foots with SS springs and a snubber.
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Total investment of $3300.00 and went 11.0..please to tell how you did this??..
 
When I finished my duster it went 11.50's at 120mph. It 60ft'd bad...street converter, street suspension, etc....
Changed all that and it started going 11.00's. Kept plugging away at it (I only race a few times a year it seems) and now it runs 10.50's with 560HP W2 360.
Total cost from everything including price of car, paint, dana 60, trans, interior (all redone) and all safety equip., and me doing the engine I'd say roughly 25K!
But I didn't need alot of the expensive stuff I have...I did it so that I could race anytime I wanted, not have to work on the car much (almost never touch it aside from washing it) and peace of mind that I overbuilt area's that take abuse.
 
w2360Duster said:
Update, I purchased a SFI approvoved flexplate (100% identical to B&M) off Epay $45 shipped, splurged on some Hughes Brand rockers for $369 shipped (I have some nice banana groove shafts im going to use) and lastley a Cheap China made SFI approved hasmonic balancer off Epay for $90 shipped (maybee my downfall?)

I sent the RHS Indy cylinder heads to a local who suppose to know his stuff big time. I have no idea how much the heads are going to cost? maybee $1000 to $1500? I have decided to run a hyd roller so there will be another $900+ .. we will see???
Click to expand...

Latest Update; with the total from above and on the 1st page i have $5834 and in the final stages of rounding up parts: I sent the heads to a local guy who did bowl work replace the guide inserts and worked the guide bosses, also surfaced the heads to 58.8cc 's. $490 in machining and setting up the RhS heads.

2.02 Ls1 intake and 1.625 ex valves, guide inserts, locators, locks, springs and retainers. $610.

Comp cams Hyd roller cam $312. and retro hyd lifters $525. for a total of $2069. parts and labor.

Mopar perf bronze roller drive and shaft $85.
Arp main stud kit $73. for a total right now of $8062.

I still need a converter and carb ans rear tires and maybe rims.
 
I'm not gonna say you can't do it....But it sure will be difficult...keep us posted...
 
Dont forget the align hone for the studs... Plus all the little chaff like oil, filters, plugs, belt, hoses, and dated safety stuff! It's gettting close :)
 
w2360Duster said:
Im not to concerned about a roll bar as of yet, i figure get kicked of the trank then install it. I do have the rollbar that i cut out of my other Duster. This car already has 2 lightweight racing seats and no heater or wiper motor im sure i can get it to way 3100 lbs before the addition of the bar.

It aleady has a fuel system since i said the car was modified already when i purchased it. Yes i do need to kick for a good convertor and im not to concerned about aftermarket axles as i dont think they are required till i run the number.

I am planning i doing as much of this myself as possible, or enlist the help of friends . I will add some photos of what i have to work with a bit later. I truley believe it can be done, am i cutting corners YES, Will the car be legal well not untill it breaks a 11.48 and when it does that i hope it will surpass that by 5 or 6 tenths.
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I agree with your logic and theory...I think it can be done with some careful spending. EXCEPT one thing - I wouldn't skip the axle deal...the $400 you might spend would be WELL worth it if you break a stocker. Imagine it breaking at 120 in the lights. Or when you're rompin on it around town.

They're not REQUIRED until you run 10.99, but (for me) it would be good piece-of-mind.

Dutchman in Portland OR has axles, green bearings, retainers and 3" studs for $370, plus the ride.
 
You don't "need" a roll cage as long as you still have stock floor and firewall you can use a rollbar up to 10.49 (But I agree with Moper, go with a cage)

I would buy some 2x3 tubing and make your own frame connectors, good investment.

If you are using aftermarket racing seats you are required to have a rollcage or rollbar to attach the back of the seats to.


If you plan on going to the race track and trying to slip by tech please don't try it at my track! We are a volunteer run track and if a car like you plan to build has an accident at my track we stand to lose our insurance! Please think about the other racers before trying to cheat the system.
 
Im in the final stages, and getting really close to my budget LOL. The engine is assembled and just about ready for installation. The bigger expenses have been purchased....

Arp Head Studs (special because of the heads) $129.
New Holley 950HP $655. thru Summit
Used 8" convertor $445. shipped
2) 2" by 2" .120 5ft lengths box tubing for frame connectors $25
Hooker 3 1/2" to 3" reducers for exhaust $34.
Chrome BB Chevy 12point intake bolts $37.

I still need to purchase tires ,im about ready to purchase some M/T 275 Drag Radials.

I also have a 66/67 B body diff i do plan to install in the car with aftermarket axles soon and sell the A body 8 3/4.
 
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