14.45 with 12 sec combo... HELP

-

puas

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
Location
México
hi guys
I'll tell you my problem. i have a 1976 duster with this combo:

360 - .030 over
KB107 pistons
stock rods and crank (ARP bolts on rods)
587 heads - ported and 2.02 valves
Torker 2 intake
Holley 750 DP- 73-82
crower camshaft 267-271 - 474- 485 lift (267hdp)
dana 44 with spool -391 gears
TF904 - transgo
Dacco 2500 converter
26x10 slicks
MSD 6AL 5500 limiter
true dual exhaust - 2 dynomax super turbo - no x pipe


yesterday I went to the track ...
my duster was moving, did not go right ... my best ET was a disappointing 14.43. the track havent 60 foot- mph, etc... only ET

what happen with my duster???... We expected 12.90 :???::???:


HELPPPP
 
Two things stick out. First, that SUCK BALLS converter, then the intake.
 
ET is the chassis and converter.

No MPH or any incremental times makes it virtually impossible to find out where time is lost. 60' is absolutely one place there is a ton of time being lost.
 
ET is the chassis and converter.

No MPH or any incremental times makes it virtually impossible to find out where time is lost. 60' is absolutely one place there is a ton of time being lost.

i know :(
 
Get the tune up right starting with initial timing and go from there on the engine.

Carb may need changes to the accel pump cams and squirters. A better converter would help.

The cam is small, so I wouldn't expect a lot out of the engine.
 
Get the tune up right starting with initial timing and go from there on the engine.

Carb may need changes to the accel pump cams and squirters. A better converter would help.

The cam is small, so I wouldn't expect a lot out of the engine.

i have a friend with the same camshaft, same combo, except converter and bigger tires..., and he runs 12.60

I had a combo, (before this) with 8.0 -1 CR, same crank, rods and intake, 440 lift cam, no converter, no DP 750 (vacuum, carb), 373 gears, transmission broken and ran 14.60


this is why I need your help .It may not be possible for me to run the same as before with so many new things.

my car is unstable. but still, I think it should be faster
 
That ISN;T a 12 second combo more like mid 13's..sorry
 
Two things stick out. First, that SUCK BALLS converter, then the intake.

My thoughts as well.
Get a good Convertor, something like a Dynamic 9.5 custom built convertor.
An Edelbrock Air Gap intake also.

Ran a combo that was similar , 9.5 convertor, 3:91 gear in a 3500LB 4-door 1973 Valiant.
with 9"slicks with exhaust, it ran 12.50's.
 
My thoughts as well.
Get a good Convertor, something like a Dynamic 9.5 custom built convertor.
An Edelbrock Air Gap intake also.

Ran a combo that was similar , 9.5 convertor, 3:91 gear in a 3500LB 4-door 1973 Valiant.
with 9"slicks with exhaust, it ran 12.50's.


i think i need tires 28s too... because i cross the finish line on te RPM limiter on 5500 (5500 is the red line of my cam)
 
I think you need another convertor. I was running a 360 crate motor (stock short block 9-1 comp, stock magnum heads and a .501/.513 lift cam,M-1 intake and had a 9.5 convertor. It ran a best of 7.45,90mph I changed to a 8 in 5500 convertor and ran 7.27, 95mph, 1/8 mile. According to Wallace Racing calculator that would be 11.71 and a 11.44 in the 1/4.
 
5500 might be where the cam manufacturer says it will stop making power, it's not where it will spin too. Never put a chip in an MSD that is the number you want. They consistently pull signal starting about 300 rpm before the actual number.

Like MikeDevore says, put a 6500 chip in it and run it. If it was banging the chip for 100+ feet, that's a lot of lost ET and MPH.
 
Yep and when it finally crosses the line at ful song, come back with an MPH number. That number is critical to determine your horsepower, which can ballpark your ET. No number is like being blind. Just try and hit the pot.

I have a little Hughes 232* cam that goes 7200 if /when I ask it to. Put some springs on yours, and let er buck. How you gonna go 12s @ 5500 on the limiter? Maybe with a bunch more cubes....You mighta gone faster/quicker with less gears!

Oops that mighta sounded condescending. Sorry.
When I check the crower cam 267-hdp comes out as pn31241, which is218/222@050 on 112LSA. Does that look right.
Isnt that about the same size as the old M/T,340 cam, that went mid 14s on street tires, back in the day?
My old combo, much like yours but with Hughes HE2330 cam(223intake,230ex)and a stick, went 106 with 3.55s,in 3rd gear around 6500@ 3650lbs, at 217m(712ft?). I was pretty happy with that....Your Duster is probably a good bit lighter.
I have yet to figure out how the cam people come up with those range numbers and how they play out in the real world.
 
Spend money wise...better converter and intake.How old is the carb?Fuel line is?Welcome to trying to go fast :D
 
5500 might be where the cam manufacturer says it will stop making power, it's not where it will spin too. Never put a chip in an MSD that is the number you want. They consistently pull signal starting about 300 rpm before the actual number.

Like MikeDevore says, put a 6500 chip in it and run it. If it was banging the chip for 100+ feet, that's a lot of lost ET and MPH.


this is my cam.. crower says the red line is 5500 :S:

http://www.crower.com/performance-l...3-360-la-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-267-hdp.html


my chip is a very very very accurate, fabricated two step (by a engineer , who makes engines)

sorry for my english
 
Just because other guys cars with the same combo runs in the low twelves doesn't mean yours will. I used to think that until I dumped a ton of money into my small block only to run a 13.4!

You may have mentioned this but were you shifting the car and if so at what RPM? Also did you spin? I agree with everyone else on the converter and intake. I went cheap on my converter years ago and it's coming back to bite me so now I am saving up for a dynamic converter.

I know it's a huge blow to take to see a slower number then you expected but in my opinion I would say you have a mid to low thirteen combo and there is nothing wrong with that on a street car at all, it's more then enough to beat the majority of rice burners and crap running around. Good luck and have fun with it!
 
:( another spec... i have a final timing in 32--- but de initial only 5... what is the recomended time???
 
Ive had good luck with 16 initial and between 34 and 38 total. That cam is great for a daily driver, but not that great for 1/4 mile times. thats smaller than what I run in my 3/4 ton daily driver! the intake is also old technology, and wasnt ever that great, can be ok with some portwork. but a good dual plane such as RPM would be better.
If it was me I wold keep the converter for now, recurve the distributor, change to 6500 pill, and go test it. If you want to change parts, I would start off with a performer rpm, and a cam such as the voodoo 268 from lunati.
 
Ive had good luck with 16 initial and between 34 and 38 total. That cam is great for a daily driver, but not that great for 1/4 mile times. thats smaller than what I run in my 3/4 ton daily driver! the intake is also old technology, and wasnt ever that great, can be ok with some portwork. but a good dual plane such as RPM would be better.
If it was me I wold keep the converter for now, recurve the distributor, change to 6500 pill, and go test it. If you want to change parts, I would start off with a performer rpm, and a cam such as the voodoo 268 from lunati.

the problem with the lunati voodoo 268 is the dual spring are needed... or can i put with single springs? i sold a voodoo 268 with springs an retainers before install it...

may be a 20-224-4 comp cams???
specs:
Cam Style:Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:1,800-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:236
Duration at 050 inch Lift:230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:274
Advertised Exhaust Duration:286
Advertised Duration:274 int./286 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.491 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.488 int./0.491 exh.
 
Shift it at 5300, pull the chip or put a MUCH higher chip in it and run it out the back at whatever RPM it runs to.

Tune up is miles off.
 
Ive had good luck with 16 initial and between 34 and 38 total. That cam is great for a daily driver, but not that great for 1/4 mile times. thats smaller than what I run in my 3/4 ton daily driver! the intake is also old technology, and wasnt ever that great, can be ok with some portwork. but a good dual plane such as RPM would be better.
If it was me I wold keep the converter for now, recurve the distributor, change to 6500 pill, and go test it. If you want to change parts, I would start off with a performer rpm, and a cam such as the voodoo 268 from lunati.

i know, I prefer a Procomp Airgap... better than this TORKER
 
The Hughes 1110 single spring works fine with the voodoo 268. lunati told me if it has around 120psi seat and close to 300 psi open it should work regardless of it being dual or single springs.
 
-
Back
Top