Yes, a 904 is the he ticket to punch. It frees up more HP.
18 year old with Mopar project NEED ADVICE!!!
- Thread starter Mopar118
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j par
Well-hung Member
2 more ) listen to your teacher, he sounds like he knows what he's doing. Think about it - HE TEACHES DRAG RACING !
moper
Well-Known Member
OK, I read your response but there's not really an answer there. I/we know what things cost, what I/we don't know is what you have to spend. I had a big problem when I was a teenager with viewing large projects from exactly that position: cost vs available funds.
If you were my student and want to run a V8 bracket car that you own and pay for - I'd advise a 5.9L Magnum base, tf904, 8 3/4 combo. Bracket cars are not about high horsepower - at least not at first. Some truly great ones never are. Spend on the chassis, suspension, and rear axle. Expectation should be low 12s. When you have to pay it all yourself, you have to crawl before you walk or run. That will get you racing quicker than trying to build a 10s car from nothing on an 18yr old's wallet. Trust me - I've been there.
If you were my student and want to run a V8 bracket car that you own and pay for - I'd advise a 5.9L Magnum base, tf904, 8 3/4 combo. Bracket cars are not about high horsepower - at least not at first. Some truly great ones never are. Spend on the chassis, suspension, and rear axle. Expectation should be low 12s. When you have to pay it all yourself, you have to crawl before you walk or run. That will get you racing quicker than trying to build a 10s car from nothing on an 18yr old's wallet. Trust me - I've been there.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
the old power to weight ratio thing - - you'll want to get it down to as close to 3000lbs as you can and about 400hp. It can be done with a well prepped small block - maybe think 360 stroker. A race converter (mine had a 5300 stall in it) with 4.10/4.30 gears, 30" tall slicks, headers etc. - you know, all the usual race car goodies. 10.90's are easily achievable. Oh - it takes $$ and time to go fast.. the more of each you put into it, the faster you are likely to go. Welcome to the site and keep us in the loop!!
Mopar118
Active Member
Mopar118
Active Member
Both the doors, hood, trunk lid, and front fenders come with it so its a complete body
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
IIRC - the front inner fenders are part of the overall structure of these cars - (much like the roof is considered part of the frame) you may want to get a roll bar going as soon as possible - or at least a set of subframe connectors.
LOL, I think that's part of the plan.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
I guess it would have to be if you're going run 10's... 
It'll make it easier with less broken or bent parts.
Mopar118
Active Member
Jegs sells a $260 roll cage that has bars that go from the inside of the car into the engine bay. That should be sturdy enough and meet the 10 second specs by NHRA rules right?
Yup! Weld them in.
ALLWAYS! Double check rule book for changes.
ALLWAYS! Double check rule book for changes.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
...do the subframe connectors too!
Mopar118
Active Member
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
..and ...and ..and - but considering where you are at - time to get the frame situated!
Mopar118
Active Member
Something like that?
Mopar118
Active Member
So in my situation, after the car is stripped of all surface rust and the interior is clean metal, should I first put the roll cage in before anything else?
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
yes - you take a chance on tweaking something if you don't get that shored up... there really isn't much holding those front frame rails in place. In fact, the lower radiator support already looks a bit wavy..
Mopar118
Active Member
I noticed that when we rebuilt the demon. Is there anything more you can do to stiffen the frame? Or that roll bar is just enough? Sorry for all the question, you guys know a lot about building theses mopars so you can surley help.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
you could put the K frame back under there - that'll keep it stiffer-ish side to side - but up an down is an issue too - again, I would get the rollbar in there... pronto. I haven't checked/read the rule book in quite a while, but I am thinking 10 point roll cage at least.
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i'd consider putting the doors on to get good even body lines. then make sure they open and close nice. Then weld or bolt a tempotrary stiffener bar from your hinge area to striker area. Then take your doors back off and proceed.
Mopar118
Active Member
If I had a caster mover setup that bolts into where the k-frame bolts into and had a cross brace that tied the two side together, would that be good enough? That setup would be allowing the frame to be at the same height while keeping the frame square to each side. Just a though not sure if that work too
No sir, not good enough
bentdart47
FABOlous
Sorry just jumping in here... Think triangulation. The firewall and frame rails being two sides of that triangle if looking from the side. You are missing one side of the triangle to tie everything together which would normally be your inner fenders.
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