1963 Valiant V200 Wagon

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the tool i got is for crimping oem style terminals, that way i can use the stock connectors that plug into the ignition switch, headlight witch etc.
 
the tool i got is for crimping oem style terminals, that way i can use the stock connectors that plug into the ignition switch, headlight witch etc.

yes i want to use the stock ignition switch also,,can you tell me the name of the krimp tool,,part nuimber where you got it ?? any thing ?? thanks a bunch

or e mail me the info please [email protected]
 
hey guys. i got some more work done on the slant. i temporarily mounted the intake and exhaust because i was anxious to see what it would look like. it took me about 2 hours to get a few broken studs out of the head, but other than that everything went pretty smooth. oh and i still have to finish painting everything once is all together. i started to give it a light coat but it wasnt sticking well. so once its together i will scrub the motor with soapy water and then paint it.

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Hey did you heat up the paint cans? Put them in some hot water for about 10-15 minutes. It helps to atomize the propellant.

The manifold and headers look great!
 
i didnt try that. i did leave the can in the sun for about an hour. but i will try your trick the next time i paint it. thanks for the help. i told my dad the other day that i need to get my butt in gear so i can drive the wagon down to spring fling. he looked at me like im crazy but i think i can do it. shouldnt be a problem as long as i stay busy at work.
 
This is one of the builds that I am watching more closely know.:cheers:
You are doing a great job and the fuse box location and fab work is very nice.
Keep up the great work slantscamp, and please don't leave anything =P~out ,That wagon is sure looking good, and you have been very busy since I
have checked in on you, Sorry I have neglected this great build.
But not no more :-D I will be watching and asking ???
congrat's on a very fine job you are doing.
 
hey guys. well here is an update. here is my baby. she is almost done, just needs a few little parts. things have been a little hectic lately but putting this engine together has been an escape for me at times. and for me, the finished product makes all the work worth it. i cant wait till i can say the same for the whole car. but one thing at a time.

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oh and thats the wrong pertronix kit. i found out once i tore my distributor all apart. the store had to order the correct one. so now i have to wait one more week. oh well.
 
If you love your engine, you will file that FRAM in the round filing cabinet and go get a WIX or K&N. FRAM=POS.......

Otherwise, looks great!!
 
i know i know. when i worked at the motorcycle shop i told everyone the same thing. they wont let you race in an afm class on a motorcycle with a fram filter. i was just going to use it for the break in. but the more i think about it the more i think i should change it. especially on the break in. next picture you see there will be no fram.
 
thanks guys. the car shop called me up yesterday and said they got the right part for me. so i am gonna run down there today and get it and hopefully work on it today.
 
I'm really enjoying reading about your build. And if you guys don't mind me asking. Whats wrong with the fram filter?
 
I'm really enjoying reading about your build. And if you guys don't mind me asking. Whats wrong with the fram filter?

I've heard the filtering media inside will sometimes colapse stopping all oil flow thru the filter, not a good thing. I've ran them on a bunch of cars for years before they were deemed "junk", never had a problem once, but it's worth another buck or two for me just to be safe.

I'm not sure if Fram is having quality control issues these days and a bunch are failing or have gone to an inferior design or if there are just a few, but very vocal people who have had problems. I'm willing to bet the latter is the case.....
 
I've heard the filtering media inside will sometimes colapse stopping all oil flow thru the filter, not a good thing. I've ran them on a bunch of cars for years before they were deemed "junk", never had a problem once, but it's worth another buck or two for me just to be safe.

I'm not sure if Fram is having quality control issues these days and a bunch are failing or have gone to an inferior design or if there are just a few, but very vocal people who have had problems. I'm willing to bet the latter is the case.....

I'll remember that... we have used them in our cars too and nothing has happened. But if there is a chance of it happening, I don't know if I really want to find out.
 
Off topic! But i'm really diggin that old suzuki in the background of your one pic. What is it? A DS125 or something.
 
thanks guys, today i converted the distributor over with the correct petronix kit. i also went to the store and purchased a bunch of stainless bolts for the engine. after that i installed the alternator bracket and coil, as well as the thermostat housing. i attempted installing the vibration damper but it didnt go on all the way. it looks like it needs to go on another 1/8th of an inch to line up with the other pulley. and it doesnt sound seated all the way. i will have to pull it off again and re try it. any one have a good tip on installing these. i heated it with my heat gun and put a thin layer of grease on it. then used a piece of wood and a hammer to hit it on. but that didnt seem to get it on all the way. any advise would be appreciated. oh and the bike in the background is one of my dads many vintage dirtbikes he keeps around. its a 250. i cant remember the year or model off the top of my head. all i know is i rode it once when i was about 12 and broke the headlight and smashed the original fender. after that i stuck to his 78 yamaha dt 400. that was a much easier bike to ride.
 
put it on with an impact or jackscrew type tool. Less damage to the thrust bearing this way.
 
are you saying, just find a bolt thats the right size and use an impact gun to suck the damper onto the crank? that makes sense and sounds alot better than my way.
 
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