1965 Barracuda with 84 318

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Rigth side Cylinder head went to the shop. Pressure tested perfect. Flatness....not so much. .004 warped! Its getting a light cut. I should have it back next week.

I'm going to pull the left head and get that checked out too, while most everything is broken down. Pressure test and cut if needed.

I cleaned and scotch padded the deck and wiped with brakekleen and looked VERY close....no visible cracks. so i hope...no cracks. The heads are early 70s. the block is 84
 
man keep that abrasive scotchbright away from your motor
it has carbide bits embedded
really hard to get your block clean after using
reclean with atf and a white lint free cloth and see if you get anything
and no WD40 It helps particles embed into your machine grooves and bore hone
did you get any crap in your lifter valley?
 
swing69 said:
Rigth side Cylinder head went to the shop. Pressure tested perfect. Flatness....not so much. .004 warped! Its getting a light cut. I should have it back next week.

I'm going to pull the left head and get that checked out too, while most everything is broken down. Pressure test and cut if needed.

I cleaned and scotch padded the deck and wiped with brakekleen and looked VERY close....no visible cracks. so i hope...no cracks. The heads are early 70s. the block is 84
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So do you still have the head gaskets? It's conceivable that the coolant leaked past the head gasket and into that oil passage, but I'd expect to have found some wetness around the head gasket in that area or a distinct channel in the head gasket there.

Can't think of a good way to 100% pressure test that oil passage in the block without taking the cam out. But if the cam is not lined up to oil that passage (which it is not 95% of the rotation) then you could put some compressed air on the oil passage out of the block and listen for any air out of the cooling jacket, or bubbling sounds from any residual coolant in the block on that side. There will be some air coming out around the cam journal but you should be able to build some pressure in there with the cam oiling passage not lined up.
 
rags all over, except for deck. vacuumed too. wiped clean. Just small areas at a time. I made sure it wasn't shedding.

No sign of the Fed-Pro521 gasket lifting for coolant to leak. going to have the heads checked, and run it again. If bad, yank the whole thing......... :(
 
How was that leak found? were you pressurizing anything? if no, then;
Maybe the coolant leaked into the pan, and the oil-pump distributed it throughout the oil system. Crack your drain plug. If coolant comes out, that theory may hold water,lol.
 
Did you check the video in post #18 AJ? Sorta looks like fresh coolant out of the rocker oiling hole.
 
nm9stheham said:
Did you check the video in post #18 AJ? Sorta looks like fresh coolant out of the rocker oiling hole.
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Which is what would accumulate in the sump and separate out.Which is why I said to crack the drainplug. If no coolant there then of course my idea is without merit.
But yeah you're probably right. I thought about that but posted it anyway.
 
both heads back from the shop. both leak tested fine, no problem. each needed a .006 worth of cutting to get them flat. These are early 70s heads that are NOT original to this 84 block. 84 block was rebuilt at one time. heads were never cut before.

Heads going back on with sealant on the long bolts. Hoping for the best. If it happens again, I have 67 318 runner that will go in until I get the block sorted out. wish me luck.
 
nm9stheham said:
Nothing comes to mind about the slower start versus timing; could be a lot of things. But it is a moot point anyway as that is not the way carb'd engine work when cold.... and it is not clear from the posts if it IS cold starting that is slow....

FWIW: Not touching the accelerator prior to cold starting makes no sense whatsover.... this is not fuel injected. A carb'd engine will never start instantly when cold with no action on the operator's part; the carb needs at least 1 pump of the accelerator when cold just to engage the choke. Try pumping accelerator pedal to floor 2x and release after each pump, prior to cranking, and see what happens.

Hot starting should be very quick if all is right and the fuel is not boiling out of the carb..... which apparently is not uncommon with the Edelbrock carbs..
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Fully warmed up...it should fire 1s or 2nd revolution. Pump the pedal once if it's cold
 
swing69 said:
both heads back from the shop. both leak tested fine, no problem. each needed a .006 worth of cutting to get them flat. These are early 70s heads that are NOT original to this 84 block. 84 block was rebuilt at one time. heads were never cut before.

Heads going back on with sealant on the long bolts. Hoping for the best. If it happens again, I have 67 318 runner that will go in until I get the block sorted out. wish me luck.
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No sealer on those rocker shaft bolts,and don't use the factory spec torque which is for 3/8 bolts! IIRC they are just 5/16 bolts and the spec is 15 ftlbs lightly oiled. Lemmee check; hyup 15# for 5/16 it is.
No sealer on the headbolts either. How's the oil supposed to get into the rocker shafts if you plug the passage with sealer? And if by some miracle it washes up into the tubes, then what if it gets stuck in one of the rocker oiling holes? No sealer.
 
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swing69 said:
I should be more clear...sorry. Once warm and running....I shut it down. wthing a minute, I turn the key - -its should start with NO throttle, just on the idle circuit. nice quick start.
I now have it doing that. I know that you need your foot in it, for setting the choke and some fuel introduced .

final setting: 13 degree initial mechanical timing, 36 total timing (mechanical). bell attached to ported vacuum - - getting another 5 -7 degrees. (can adjust for more) at 15 vac. Running nicely now.

I'm running a 1/2" termal insulator under the eddy carb on the manifold. Highly recomended
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Hot start needs some pedal too.
 
AJ/FormS said:
No sealer on those rocker shaft bolts,and don't use the factory spec torque which is for 3/8 bolts! IIRC they are just 5/16 bolts and the spec is 15 ftlbs lightly oiled. Lemmee check; hyup 15# for 5/16 it is.
No sealer on the headbolts either. How's the oil supposed to get into the rocker shafts if you plug the passage with sealer? And if by some miracle it washes up into the tubes, then what if it gets stuck in one of the rocker oiling holes? No sealer.
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I imagine the OP is thinking that this will keep the coolant at bay if there is a crack or pin hole from the head bolt threads in block into the cooling jacket. But you're right AJ.. it very well is going to get into or restrict/block the rockers' oiling passage. And, besides, I'd rather see the problem show up again NOW at idle or sitting still, rather than be driving and having the pressurized coolant eventually get past the sealer unobserved (which it very probably will do) and then get into the oil, and damage every moving part: rockers, crank, rods, oil pump, etc.
 
UPDATE: Both cylinder heads off to the machine shop. both cut ~ .005 for flatness. both leakchecked good. Assembled it up....ran it.....same problem. Leaking coolant into oil
Same place too, same side. Removed the right valve cover and rocker shaft. Pressurized the cooling system through the radiator. LOTS of coolant coming up the oiling tower into the rockershaft. :(

Now; leak definitely the block side. coolant getting into "cam to rocker" passage in the block.

Thinking of: drilling and sleeving the oil passage. ahhhh. so much fun.........
 
My brother just did a 273. Water in 5&7 cylinders. Problem traced to the FelPro intake gasket. China wall gaskets wouldnt allow proper torque on intake gasket, just sayin.

Tim
 
swing69 said:
UPDATE: Both cylinder heads off to the machine shop. both cut ~ .005 for flatness. both leakchecked good. Assembled it up....ran it.....same problem. Leaking coolant into oil
Same place too, same side. Removed the right valve cover and rocker shaft. Pressurized the cooling system through the radiator. LOTS of coolant coming up the oiling tower into the rockershaft. :(

Now; leak definitely the block side. coolant getting into "cam to rocker" passage in the block.

Thinking of: drilling and sleeving the oil passage. ahhhh. so much fun.........
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Let's see, does that passage go to the cam bearings?
 
yes; its the passage from the cam on the passenger side. Video of leak (post 18) WITHOUT additional pressure (just temp. differential) you get coolant dribbling out. Pressurizing the coolant side gives alot more coolant flow. I'm thinking leak between coolant passage and oil passage.

Drilling and sleeving that oil hole should work! It think that hole is 3/16?? anyone know for sure?
 
it is will heavy heart, that I report to you today that the block is indeed, dead. Pressurizing the oil supply passage, I get a leak into the valley. A lateral crack 1/2" below the deck height, stretching at least 6". Not only does it leak coolant into the oiling passage, it also leaks coolant into the valley. oh well....nothing beats building up another block!
 
Dang...a lot of work for nothing. Well, not exactly nothing...it will be a good learning experience for the kids paying close attention. I had a 340 that was froze and busted the same way in 1978. :(
 
The replacement block that I have is a pre-74 (1971 I think). The cracked block is a 1984. Pistons, rods and crank are all ready to install into the 71n block. HOWEVER: the #3 bearing is different (not completely sure...but thrust face dim?).

Anyway; what do I have to do to make the 84 crank fit in the 71 block?
 
I read the other threads, and I would think that if you use the thrust bearing for the year block you will be using, it will be fine. Just compare the new bearing for the 71 block to the one you take out of the 84 block to see what the difference is.
 
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