gtmopar
Phuckin A!
Lookin good ulf. Keep up the good work!
1965 Dodge Dart Charger
- Thread starter 65dartcharger
- Start date
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PapstXX
Well-Known Member
wow ulf you´r sooo crazy
Thanks guys for the comments!
Now it's time to start getting the body in shape. Talked with the paint man and he is doing the small work that needs to be done before primer.
I need to find out where the line of primer should be.
These pictures are taken on a 1970 Duster where Mike Mancini of American Muscle Car Restoration in Kingstown, RI did the job. It scored second highest at Mopar Nats.
I need to start with the door so I can found out how deep the body vent down in the primer.
Now it's time to start getting the body in shape. Talked with the paint man and he is doing the small work that needs to be done before primer.
I need to find out where the line of primer should be.
These pictures are taken on a 1970 Duster where Mike Mancini of American Muscle Car Restoration in Kingstown, RI did the job. It scored second highest at Mopar Nats.
I need to start with the door so I can found out how deep the body vent down in the primer.
OK, after sanding the doors on the inside I found the line from the dipping process. Now it's possible to calculate how the body were dipped in the process.
340_dart_power
Well-Known Member
As always, your attention to detail is amazing, Sir.
Really looking forward to eventually seeing this car finished.
Really looking forward to eventually seeing this car finished.
Thanks! I guess it's part of the journey!
Here are some great pictures from Hamtramck - Historical. They can be watched at www.hamtramck-historical.com
The goal is to find out where the lines on the body were.
Dang, I had no idea about the rust prevention dip. Awesome you found this.
This is the process so far!
1. Sealer added to some spots that should be seamed before primer
2. Red primer on full body
3. Masking on the line from the dipping process.
4. Painting the lower body greenish primer.
5. Tejp on holes in the front fenders towards engine compartment due to risk of paint and undercoating.
5. Sealer on the rest of the spots
6. Code 999 yellow paint top coat including overspray at several places.
After talking with some people that have done restorations this is the "modern process" without dipping the body.Howevere is abig time on making drip marks on the undercarrige. I must get alot of paint there so the drippings will be visable.
1. Sealer added to some spots that should be seamed before primer
2. Red primer on full body
3. Masking on the line from the dipping process.
4. Painting the lower body greenish primer.
5. Tejp on holes in the front fenders towards engine compartment due to risk of paint and undercoating.
5. Sealer on the rest of the spots
6. Code 999 yellow paint top coat including overspray at several places.
After talking with some people that have done restorations this is the "modern process" without dipping the body.Howevere is abig time on making drip marks on the undercarrige. I must get alot of paint there so the drippings will be visable.
Found a nice picture of the undercarrige. See all the drips!
Next picture shows how the assembly line workers sprayed the sealer for noice reduction. That was done prior to paint.
Next picture shows how the assembly line workers sprayed the sealer for noice reduction. That was done prior to paint.
This is how the sealer looked in the trunk. Untouched 1965 Dodge Dart GT!
On the front inner fenders the assembly line workers masked off so no paint or undercoating came on the paint inside the engine compartment.
On the front inner fenders the assembly line workers masked off so no paint or undercoating came on the paint inside the engine compartment.
I didsome closer examination today about the process of adding the front fenders. All fenders have two screw pins, one at the rear close to the dfront doors and one screw pinat the front of the inner fender. The reason was simply so the assembly line workers could add the fender without dropping it.
Around the front screw pin was some kind of sealer. Looks like a chuck of sealer that was added and then just tightened together.
Does anyone know what kind of sealer that was added?
Around the front screw pin was some kind of sealer. Looks like a chuck of sealer that was added and then just tightened together.
Does anyone know what kind of sealer that was added?
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
same procedure was done on the floor board where the seat bolts go thru, maked off area where the nut and washer are.
So right. This how it looks between the cowl and the inner fenders. Some kind of putty. Not sure what it is. Same on the from of the rockerpanels. All of them where done before the paint.
To me it looks like it was put in place by hands. But I'm not sure.
The upper area of the firewall was isolated with insulation pads. It was glued with somthing. Does anyone know if they are repoped and where to get them?
Any help is appriciated.
Any help is appriciated.
The foot for the bumper jack is in good condition. But the assembly line worker that added the decal must have had some strong drinks before he started........!
Today I got the result from the paint shop and tomorrow I will get the exact right color for the mecanism and the foot!
Today I got the result from the paint shop and tomorrow I will get the exact right color for the mecanism and the foot!
slantsixdan
=..=
There were major drug problems in the Chrysler assembly plants in the '60s. They got much worse in the '70s.
These are the repop decals for the jack base. Not even close..... I willl stop by the local print company to see what they can do. I'll probably do some more in case another restoration needs them!
The band that goes between the body and the rear muffler was taken of the convertible. The band is kind of weak for the rear muffler. The one that was on the hardtop was thicker. Does anyone know what the orginal looked like? I don't have a single clue!
Re the mecanism on the bumper jack I sprayed it with the new paint. I was confused.It wasn't what I expected! To me it seems a little to dark. What do you guys think?
I glass beaded the jack base and it turned out as new. But the paint is killing me...............! I guess the paint must have been darker over the years as well as it has been some grease on it which make it darker too. I need to reconsider this color. On the backside I sanded the old color and to me that color is lighter then the old one and the new sprayed paint. So what to do?
Re the mecanism on the bumper jack I sprayed it with the new paint. I was confused.It wasn't what I expected! To me it seems a little to dark. What do you guys think?
I glass beaded the jack base and it turned out as new. But the paint is killing me...............! I guess the paint must have been darker over the years as well as it has been some grease on it which make it darker too. I need to reconsider this color. On the backside I sanded the old color and to me that color is lighter then the old one and the new sprayed paint. So what to do?
No Commando valve covers yet? They should be getting there any day now! :-D
Leanna!So far nothing ha sshowed up but I will let you know when! I will be all over them.
Today arrived the last package from Eric. The starter relay was a blast. Looks totally stock from week 35 of 64! With nut and washer too!
For the front license plate bracket I just added the NOS plastic nuts and the new screws. Assembly line parts in mint condition.
The pole for the bumper jack was as new. BUT, I found out that the pole for 1963 and 1964 A-bodies were shorter then 65 Dart! The profile on the pole is different too. So I need to sell my pole including the mecanism. The 65 pole will be shipped for new finish. The other difference is the the mecanismhas plastic stabalizers on two spots on the 65 mecanism. 63 and 64 don't!
Today arrived the last package from Eric. The starter relay was a blast. Looks totally stock from week 35 of 64! With nut and washer too!
For the front license plate bracket I just added the NOS plastic nuts and the new screws. Assembly line parts in mint condition.
The pole for the bumper jack was as new. BUT, I found out that the pole for 1963 and 1964 A-bodies were shorter then 65 Dart! The profile on the pole is different too. So I need to sell my pole including the mecanism. The 65 pole will be shipped for new finish. The other difference is the the mecanismhas plastic stabalizers on two spots on the 65 mecanism. 63 and 64 don't!
After some examination I found out that the paint I bought from the paint shop is exactly the same color. So I painted the mecanism and the base. Turned out super great!
But I need the plastic that goes into the mecanism. It have a small crack that is visible. Does anyone have one of these extra for sale?
The vent window fram turned out great with new finish. I need to go and get the rivets.
But how about the jack stand hooks. I really need your help? Was is grey or black? I thought it was grey but I'm not sure any more......!
But I need the plastic that goes into the mecanism. It have a small crack that is visible. Does anyone have one of these extra for sale?
The vent window fram turned out great with new finish. I need to go and get the rivets.
But how about the jack stand hooks. I really need your help? Was is grey or black? I thought it was grey but I'm not sure any more......!
I just took a look at my original 65 Dart jack assembly and the hook is defintely gray and looks like the one on the right in your photo. I can take pictures tomorrow if needed.
That would be great. Do you know what car the other hook is for?
The bar for the rear quarter window turned out as new incl the silver cad washer.
I mounted the clamps on the bearing cups on the U-joint. Turned out as factory pieces. So finally the U-joint is ready for assemble. I just need to add the black crayon markings on it!
I have searched for the jacking instruction but I don't have an orginal piece. Can someone help me to shoot a picture of your factory decal under the trunk? I would really appriciate it. Included is a picture and a repop. I want to compare them so I know they are exactly as originals.
I mounted the clamps on the bearing cups on the U-joint. Turned out as factory pieces. So finally the U-joint is ready for assemble. I just need to add the black crayon markings on it!
I have searched for the jacking instruction but I don't have an orginal piece. Can someone help me to shoot a picture of your factory decal under the trunk? I would really appriciate it. Included is a picture and a repop. I want to compare them so I know they are exactly as originals.
Don! Since this hook was the right one and it was grey, you said yours was grey I painted my hook grey too.
But after I searched throughmy inventory of pictures there seems to be alot of different models out there.....!
Year Type Length Comments Mecanism Mast
color finish
1964 Tubular Integral hook Black Yellow dichromate
1965 Tubular Black/Grey Yellow dichromate
1966 Tubular Grey Yellow dichromate
But after I searched throughmy inventory of pictures there seems to be alot of different models out there.....!
Year Type Length Comments Mecanism Mast
color finish
1964 Tubular Integral hook Black Yellow dichromate
1965 Tubular Black/Grey Yellow dichromate
1966 Tubular Grey Yellow dichromate
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