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Thank you very much.
Got a hold of a guy in Riverside CA, I live in Chino CA. His Facility is R&R Racing Cylinder Head. He told me this week to bring the original cast irons in and he would rebuild them. So that's the first thing where I will start. more to follow and thanks again for all your feedback.
make sure that he checks the guides... some people ignore them...
I'll bring everything that he needs with me. Thank you !!!! Oh.. and me not being to engine savy,... guides??
Just so you can see.. here are the original heads
Valve guides... That's the "sleeve" that's press-fit into the head that the valves slide in... After many miles they get worn/oval and the valves get sloppy and beat up the seats more... New guides keep the valves straight up and down... My head guy presses out the old ones and installs new ones, then machines them to size to fit the valve stem... I helped a local member rebuild a "rebuilt" 340 this year, the guy didn't have hardened seats for the exhaust valve, so we took them to my head guy, who found that the valve guides were worn also and needed replacing... He took care of it... I have a great head guy in Michigan near Detroit. He found out how the head guy for the one local race team was doing his valves, then said, "Let me do a set for you..." He did a set of heads for a race team that usually ran the 1/4 mile in the 6's, and his heads got them into the 5's.... He also does valve jobs on small private airplanes... I moved to Chicago, and still bring all my head work to him... When you find a good machine/head guy - stick with him like glue...
Thank you again so very much. This info is gold and very much appreciated. I'll make sure that this guy gets all this info so it gets done right.
Hey All, Just wanted to give you all an update. I located a couple of very knowledgeable guys that have many years of experience on rebuilding heads as well as motors. They have the 66 cast irons and I should have them back in about another week or so. I will let you all know how this turned out. Thank you all again for your kindness and knowledge.
Just a brief description of what they are doing to the heads: New S.S Swirl polished valves New Bronze guides New Hard seats New Springs (H.P) New Locks New Retainers New screw in studs Port and Polish -Exhaust-Intake-and Chambers C.C Heads Cut for Big Valves Gasket match manifold and heads
Screw in studs?!?
Studs to replace head bolts? Big valves require relief in block? We did same to my heads except big valves when building my motor. I used ARP headbolts though.
Take a 1.88 and cut it down to 1.82
See my sig below for the mods to my '66 273 Commando....Welcome site! Feel free to message me any questions.
Well I'm back... once again thank you for all the info. the heads are almost done. Question about the CAM. They are going to break in the new cam that I purchased. They are asking for the lifters? I have the lifters that we removed. Is it advisable to use the same lifters or buy a set of new ones?
Always new lifters on new cam
Agree with above new cam AND lifters
Yep, always use new lifters with a new cam..
Thank you again... So having said that... I have A new Cam... how do I know what lifters I need? Are they all the same? I googled lifters for a 273. A bunch of different ones came up. Not looking for most expensive, but something that will work decently with what I have going? Any recommendations? What info do I need to get the right lifters?
Pick your cam first, then get lifters to match... 273's had factory solid lifter cams and adjustable rocker arms from the factory from 64 - 67... in 68-69 they had the same hydraulic cam as the 318... Figure out if you are going with a solid or hydraulic cam and get lifters to match... If you go with hydraulic, I recommend using the standard Rhoades part # 2018 They bleed down at idle and tame down the cam. At idle they take out about .025" lift and 10° duration from the cam. They give more vacuum, fuel economy, and low and mid range torque and HP without sacrificing top end. I've used them for years and they perform well... Here's their main page: Rhoads Lifters Read the second article here: Articles
If you are going with a hydraulic cam and those adjustable 273 rocker arms, then I would recommend using the crane adjusting studs to replace the stock screws. Grind the top of the rocker arm flat so the lock nut can seat properly on it. Then you will need custom push rods. Get a hold of @Eddie348 and get the name and part number of the push rods that we had made for his 340 with the stock 273 rocker arms. They are very affordable, and we measured the proper length to use with a stock hydraulic cam, with the crane adjustable rockers, and hydraulic lifters... The company made them in a few days for us... The solid lifter and hydraulic cams need different length push rods to work with the respective lifters...
Thank you so much for the information.
Glenn Happy to see other 273 fans out there. Mine is almost ready to go: 30 over, decked, line bored, hyd cam, hardened seats, ported heads, air-gap manifold, holley 570 street avenger, rebuilt 833 with Inland shifter. I hope to use the same the air cleaner pictured earlier in this post. The air gap is a bit taller than the 2bbl manifold, but the 4bbl carb is shorter than the 2bbl (3 1/4 vs 4 1/4). Do you know of any shorty headers that are available? Does anyone know if spitfire headers are still available? Please update pics as your project progresses. Stroker
Well, Im back..LOL... been a little busy trying to move forward on this project. So the heads are done. Bought the Weiand intake and Holly 4160. Car is in the paint shop getting prepped. Again its not going to be showcase, but a nice looking ride at least. What about tires and Rims? What would be a good fit, within a budget and look good? It has a 5 bolt pattern. Here is a picture of the tire and rim with original hub the car came with... Any suggestions would be helpful.. Thank you in advance.
I'm not an expert with tires and rims... I'm sure there are other members that can help that have better knowledge on that subject than me...