1966 Dart GT-it begins

Joe Mc

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Seam sealer. I've used and like the Eastwood stuff. May I suggest: 1-primer then seam sealer, flatten down a bit with a throwaway brush dipped in lacquer thinner. 2-after cured then finish paint.
 

mike240

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Seam sealer. I've used and like the Eastwood stuff. May I suggest: 1-primer then seam sealer, flatten down a bit with a throwaway brush dipped in lacquer thinner. 2-after cured then finish paint.

Thanks for the advise. I saw a post from a couple years ago of a place that would put QQ1 paint in a rattle can but now their site only says they do motorcycle stuff. Color Rite I think….anywhere else that will do that? I just want to creat that factory overspray look back in the trunk after my surface rust removal and protection.
 

mike240

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Today the new gas tank arrived. I flushed it with fresh gas to remove any
Oils or debris from manufacture. Then used self etching primer (Rustoleum) on the top half and 3m undercoating and 3m spray adhesive to attach the new foam mat.

Degreased the bottom and clear coated it and the strap. My sender was good so replaced sender opening seal, tank grommet seal and the foam disc at the quarter panel for the filler tube. Flushed the lines. Replaced all rubber including the connection for the vent. Rebuilt the carb and fuel
Pump ( to clear any debris), and new inline filter. Primed it and vroom! Set idle and drove it round the block a bit!

Getting smoke off the left bank (dual exhaust). So tomorrow will start pulling plugs, doing compression checks etc and hope for the best.

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mike240

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Probably will not convert to power steering. Its not bad at all on this little car. But will replace all the rubber and ball joints etc. its a bit loose. Maybe somewhere the steering box can be re geared for a little quicker response? I do not know.

Haven’t done this kind of stuff since I was a kid, so a bit out of date….
 

toolmanmike

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Probably will not convert to power steering. Its not bad at all on this little car. But will replace all the rubber and ball joints etc. its a bit loose. Maybe somewhere the steering box can be re geared for a little quicker response? I do not know.

Haven’t done this kind of stuff since I was a kid, so a bit out of date….
PST is a vendor here and may be able to help. The gears can be adjusted and there are quicker gears but along with that they are harder to steer.
 

mike240

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Can someone advise if this is normal. The rear deck trim comes over the lockset. I know these cars weren't perfect. Previous owner lost the key and I just got a new trunk to install from Van’s.

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toolmanmike

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Can someone advise if this is normal. The rear deck trim comes over the lockset. I know these cars weren't perfect. Previous owner lost the key and I just got a new trunk to install from Van’s.

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Yep. It's a pain. You have to stand on your head to open the trunk.
 

mike240

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Curious if anyone knows what the brown primer is a top the metal before grey snd the factory red poly QQ1. Anything special or special reason. It is an LA factory built car.
 

Joe Mc

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I saw a post from a couple years ago of a place that would put QQ1 paint in a rattle can but now their site only says they do motorcycle stuff. Color Rite I think….anywhere else that will do that? I just want to creat that factory overspray look back in the trunk after my surface rust removal and protection.
Not sure if all auto-body supply places will do that. There's one in Levittown, PA, back where I used to live (Flannery's Auto-Body Supply) that could mix up anything you wanted and put it in a spray bomb for you. Can't hurt to call ones local to you.
 

mike240

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Removing back window was a treat. All the gaps and channels between the seal and outer trim, and again under the inner trim looks like it was packed with plumbers putty. There was also a white foam strip under the glass but in the seal gap.

Had attack the seal for hours cutting with razor knife and dissect it all. But got the trim out unharmed.

The payoff to plumbers putty I guess is in the condition of the sill and package tray areas.

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mike240

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Figured it was time for an update. Was driving the car a round locally a bit just to enjoy it despite rear window being out.
Failed leak down on #1 cylinder but will have the motor gone through later.

Decided for full restoration despite temptation to mini tub, more motor etc. (I have a 2015 Challenger SRT with 12 k on it if I want more power)

Been stripping, bagging and tagging. Had to do some mods to what used to be my dog kennels area to enclose it so my tractor and side by side could be protected in order to have more room for the Dart project.

Will be ordering a rotisserie next week when I decide which one.

Did a little exploring to see what hidden damage they might have been.

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mike240

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Tried playing stripper music but she won’t do it on her own.

So far so good or lucky as far as rust goes. Both front and rear window sills are solid.

A few shots of fenders and front ends of rockers are good. A little surface but the plugs are solidly in place.

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toolmanmike

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Tried playing stripper music but she won’t do it on her own.

So far so good or lucky as far as rust goes. Both front and rear window sills are solid.

A few shots of fenders and front ends of rockers are good. A little surface but the plugs are solidly in place.

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You are a lucky man. May be you should go out and buy a lottery ticket. LOL
 

mike240

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Based on the undercoating I would guess the driver’s side fender has been replaced at some point.

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mike240

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Have gotten behind schedule dealing with some family issues. But got motor and trans pulled yesterday.

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mike240

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Hey man, that's progress!

Cley
Thanks but not really for a retired a guy. Been taking care of a family member quite a bit. Got the rear axle assembly out. Hopefully K member and suspension tomorrow.

Friday afternoon rotisserie is to be delivered. Then I can fab up mounts.
 

mopowers

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That was probably the least favorite task on my 66 Dart. At the very least, you're not on your back doing it under the car with **** dropping on you. Little by little... Keep it up!
 

mike240

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It has been awhile. Health, aging family members…..and Arizona heat!

Weather is breaking. Compressor pump went bad. Rebuilt it then a rod snapped the next day. It wasn’t going to meet spraying needs anyways and I worked it too hard with tools. Ordered a two stage 7.5 horse Eaton Polar air but have a couple weeks before it gets here.

Got a stud welder and pulled some dents. Did a little exploring on the right rear rust bubbles. The front of the arch is rust free but caved in good and you can see all the dent puller holes from its past.

I started welding up dent pull holes all around but stopped close to where I will likely be cutting replacing the wheel arch.

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mike240

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With new air compressor and cooler weather work picks up a bit. The little hole at the corner of the rear window was opened up to solid metal and corrected. The wheel arch did not need replaced so just patched the early stages of a rust through. There was a piece of undercoat probably from the trunk spraying that plugged the drain in the quarter’s bottom lip.

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mike240

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Will wait to patch the corner under the tail light till I get my blaster. There is so much undercoat sprayed into the corners of the trunk I want to see what is under it, get rust out and not start a fire when I weld.

Starting to see how more cars might have survived without undercoating….it sure can trap moisture in some areas or designed drains along pinch welds got clogged.

Oh, the new Eaton. Got it wired and plumbed in yesterday.

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Joe Mc

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Nice work.

Note on undercoating, not saying you don't know this but thinking some others reading along may not think of this old trick. Before applying rust preventive coating / sound deadener into an area that could clog weep / drain holes slide a straw into the hole (coffee stirrers work great for those tight slots) and allow coating to cure before removing them. Twist the straw as you remove. If you are installing new panels, say a trunk vertical / riser to the bottom of the quarter panel, before welding the seams place a small drill bit (at an angle towards the rear of the car) between the panels and pinch on each side of the bit. Move the bit a few inches or however far needed to replicate factory weeps / drains.

Congrats on new compressor. I have a similar unit, appears to be a 60gal tank, that I installed in a small outside shed I built attached to the 1-car garage at my previous home to help keep noise down. I installed a louver on the bottom of the door to the shed and a roof vent to reduce heat in the shed. I found in the summer months the shed became very warm and I had to open the door to allow the heat to get out. Later on I installed a fan below the roof vent with a thermostat that would bring the fan on at 95 degrees. That seemed to work well.



Keep up the great work
 
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