1967 Cuda FB project

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SHEESH! You're like the automotive version of Doctor Frankenstein.
 
Now if the chop doesn't work out you may have to sue yourself for malpractice.
 
Still sectioning the rear window pieces for the opening. Because I have to move the pieces closer to each other to make up for the difference not using the factory gasket, I will have 6 pieces for the rear glass. Ma Mopar didn't care what the distance between the glass edge and the window opening were, just as long as the gasket filled the void. :protest: I will have to slightly reshape some of the pieces to fit the contour of the glass better. I am going to "build" the glass frame with the pieces I sectioned out. Then lay that frame in the opening of the original window frame. The original flat section that held the factory gasket is only about 1/2" wide, I will have to add some metal to make a wider bed for the sealant to set on. At least a 1/4" wider.
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You can see how much wider the windshield post is going to be on the sides.
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very interested in this part of the build.....I was telling a mate about you doing this and thought this would be how you would go about it....I considered this for my 62 Plymouth Valiant hence my interest....my other option was to make a moulding to cover the factory gasket and paint it body colour
 
I got the window sections all tacked together on the window for "close" spacing of the window edge to the roof sections. Laid it into the original opening and you can see how much smaller the new opening will be. Also, how much the hole varies from top to bottom. Closer on the bottom of course because that dimension didn't change from factory.
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Here's a good view of how much narrower I had to make the hole for flush mount.
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I left extra material from the donor parts to overlap the factory window hole. Then I can take a cut off wheel and cut to match the window opening.
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I am glad most all of the interior window trim is metal. I have the donor pieces for that also so I can modify those to fit the new window opening.
The flush window treatment looks so much smoother. I like it a lot.

I love this car..................... :blob:
 
SNKEBIT said:
On and off all day welding the new window opening and adding a wider flange for the sealant. Did about 1/2 hr worth of grinding on the welds and had to take a break, back is a little sore today for some reason.
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Have I said I'm happy about the outcome? :cheers:
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In my opinion you were very smart to redo the rear window seal/joint. The first fastback Barracuda I owned rusted out from the leaks around the rear window. When I bought my current FB Cuda I removed the rear window, removed all the trim locks/pins (they collect moisture), prepped and undercoated all the seal surfaces and had the glass man re-install the glass with urethane. It wasn't that simple but the glass man had numerous rolls of different shapes of rubber trim which we fitted around the opening until we got the correct fit. Of course I had to sell my old window stainless ( $350) because it could no longer be installed but now there's absolutely no place/space for water to collect and no place for rust to even begin!!
I did the same with the front windshield, no more leaks and no rust (EVER)!!


PS - GREAT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
treblig
 

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Treblig said:
In my opinion you were very smart to redo the rear window seal/joint. The first fastback Barracuda I owned rusted out from the leaks around the rear window. When I bought my current FB Cuda I removed the rear window, removed all the trim locks/pins (they collect moisture), prepped and undercoated all the seal surfaces and had the glass man re-install the glass with urethane. It wasn't that simple but the glass man had numerous rolls of different shapes of rubber trim which we fitted around the opening until we got the correct fit. Of course I had to sell my old window stainless ( $350) because it could no longer be installed but now there's absolutely no place/space for water to collect and no place for rust to even begin!!
I did the same with the front windshield, no more leaks and no rust (EVER)!!


PS - GREAT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
treblig
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The 3, 67-69's, I have personally come across, all were rusted out in the rear window channel.
My current car would have been totally rust free had not the rear window rusted out!! :protest:

Thanks for the compliment!!! :prayer:
 
Spent another hour grinding welds around rear window. Still not done. :protest:
About 1/2 hour grinding left. Then blast the welds clean and duraglass. :glasses7:
Will take some pics when done grinding.
 
With all these aerodynamic improvements, you'll probably bump your gas mileage into the 20:s. :D
 
SNKEBIT said:
Fixed. :D

What you up to?
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Actually just had the Dart apart Saturday. Have been having issues with getting it into gear when it got hot. Put a spacer behind the throwout bearing as I didn't think my clearances were quite right and it seemed to be the fix most people recommended. Still giving me problems though, so trying a heat sleeve over the clutch line next.
 
Map63Vette said:
Actually just had the Dart apart Saturday. Have been having issues with getting it into gear when it got hot. Put a spacer behind the throwout bearing as I didn't think my clearances were quite right and it seemed to be the fix most people recommended. Still giving me problems though, so trying a heat sleeve over the clutch line next.
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How close to exhaust is clutch line. Have that "fade" on Vipers when too close to the headers. :glasses7:
 
SNKEBIT said:
How close to exhaust is clutch line. Have that "fade" on Vipers when too close to the headers. :glasses7:
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Not really very close at all. Goes down the firewall from the master and follows the inner fender before it shoots straight over into the bellhousing. Probably never gets any closer than 6" to headers and they're ceramic coated as well. Have heard of the issue though and seems like the logical problem. It's a braided stainless line, so I'm sure that's probably retaining some heat compared to a factory style plastic one as well. Guessing it's just trapping some hot air between the firewall and floorpan and cooking the line there. Easy enough to throw a heat sleeve on it, so have one on the way.
 
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