1968 dart Pro street/ half pro touring build

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Yesterday I got the seats out from the shed and mocked them up in the car.

After removing millions of little clips from the seat frame I finally got the seat foam and padding removed from the frame. After mocking them up in the rear, It looks like there will be minimal if any cutting to do for the wheel tubs. :prayer:

I also got in my stocker star shocks from QA1. This they said would substitute and work the same as the caltrac 90/10s but they look AWESOME!!!

Amazing looking pieces... I got those in and right now all I am waiting for on the front suspension is the lower shock bolts and the nuts to hole the strut rods onto the lower control arms.

enjoy some pictures..
 

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Got home today and it was POURING out.. I mean it was coming down bad..

I've been waiting for my wilwood master cylinder and prop. valve for a couple weeks now... Well sure enough I get home and its outside in the rain.. soaked.. I get it inside to take it out of the box and the box just about fell apart..

After drying everything off and getting everything ready I went right to bolting it onto the car. I used a billet master cylinder adapter I got from a member on here and then bolted the whole thing together... AMAZING looking... :burnout: :prayer: :D

I love it!! Take a look for yourself.... Now I am just saving up so I can get my New custom Fiberglass dash from Jerry Bickel Race Cars
 

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Just for Reference here's a couple pictures of the back seat frame installed with my wheel tubs. The first shows where it was going to have to be clearance, The other 3 are after modification and installed. Everything is looking good, keep up the outstanding work.
 

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Those front rotors look really thin. I usually only see the thin ones like that on the rear of a car with double thick (with a vented middle) on the front. Any reason you went with a thin rotor on the front?
 
Those front rotors look really thin. I usually only see the thin ones like that on the rear of a car with double thick (with a vented middle) on the front. Any reason you went with a thin rotor on the front?


Its meant to be a drag rotor... the thickness is about 8.8mm
 
Finally got the 440 home from the shop and I am ready to strip it.. I will be selling everything but the bare bare block as I am building a stroker and will not be needing any of that.
 

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Got news from the machine shop that one cylinder had a little pitting after going .30 over.. I had two options.. Go .40 over or .30 with a sleeve in one cylinder.. I don't want to take the risk of a sleeve so I had them go .40 over on all cylinders... after that they will get it back to me and I can continue on with this build.
 
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