Picked up the car from the body shop last week, then on the hoist to install the stainless fuel and brake lines. Had to get some more fittings and a hose to connect from the in-tank fuel pump to the fuel line.
Progress a little slow while I help my son build a 15'x50' lean to. However I started some assembly work at the back end.
I'm making a few non-original modifications. The first is adding headlight relays (and fuses). They are all under the battery tray. The headlight package is a kit by "Crackedback" (Rob Yule) and is a quality product. Also installing an 8 Ga wire (with fusible link) direct from alternator to starter relay. (Crackedback) Also adding a Daylight Running Light module from Dan Stern Lighting.
Looks awesome. Man I forgot how much real estate those brake boosters take up. Remember having to put new valve seals on my engine, you know bring piston to top air in spark plug hole method, couldn't get to back left cylinder without removing booster, didn't have time. Needless to say the left bank puffed a little, if it ain't a bit smokey it ain't an old MoPar, right? LOL. Keep on doing it brother, nice work.
Love the detail!!! Brake line correctness for the period! I know why you did the HL relays but are they really needed?
I've had overheated connections at the firewall connectors and at the headlight switch on 2 Cuda's. Other Mopar owners have had the same thing, including fires. I don't want any fire risk after doing this restoration!!! I've bypassed the ammeter (converted to a voltmeter) and connected the 8 Ga wire direct to the starter relay. This prevents battery charging amps from flowing through the bulkhead connector. A side benefit is far brighter headlights.
Understood. Mine lasted 20 something years before resto and expect the same after sitting 25 with all new wiring!
did you send your ammeter out to get converted to a voltmeter? or do you have a write up on how that is done? thanks
I sent my cluster to Redline Gauge Works for restoration and the ammeter conversion to a voltmeter. http://redlinegaugeworks.com/
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I had a lot of work done on the cluster: Install solid state voltage limiter $83.00 Calibrate all gauges $60.00 Convert amp gauge to voltmeter $280.00 Restore tach face and add volt scale to ammeter $145.00 Repair and restore circuit board $65.00 Convert Tachometer to modern internals $320.00 A lot of USD (and even more CAD$$$!!!), but their quality is excellent.
Spent a bit of time gutting an old reproduction green top battery so I could install a new Odyssey battery inside. Still have to connect cables from the battery to the posts.