1969moparDART
Well-Known Member
Already did wilwood power disk brakes on it
1972 318 street build
- Thread starter 1969moparDART
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gzig5
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Well then, you seem to be set for success.
1969moparDART
Well-Known Member
im trying anyway my only problem is funds..... thinking of a GoFundMe account lol
furrystump
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I also run the espo 1” over arch. Which was fine for the street. Good springs allow you to run the biggest tire you can. You can also flip the front spring eye to get more rear height. Changes your instant center but at this point that is not a concern for you. Unless you are carving corners rear sway bar seems overkill. They do work well in drag racing to help the car launch level. Helps with torque induced body twist.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
a comment on sway bars
first run the largest torsion bars you can find
second get the largest front bar you can find
then do a back springs- add a leaf or start with wagon springs then the rear bar
measure a Cordoba bar and see if it fits
they do fit B and C bodies and are cheap at pick a parts
Never do a rear bar first unless you like oversteer like a Porsche
showing a low budget progression here guys
wide wheels (which do not work well with modern tires on OEM 60's suspension) forum can lead you on what fits your chassis
what bolt circle on your hubs?
first run the largest torsion bars you can find
second get the largest front bar you can find
then do a back springs- add a leaf or start with wagon springs then the rear bar
measure a Cordoba bar and see if it fits
they do fit B and C bodies and are cheap at pick a parts
Never do a rear bar first unless you like oversteer like a Porsche
showing a low budget progression here guys
wide wheels (which do not work well with modern tires on OEM 60's suspension) forum can lead you on what fits your chassis
what bolt circle on your hubs?
The previous owner of my Swinger added a leaf to original saggy springs. It's fairly thick. I wonder if it was out of a Dakota or something. It raised the rear end up and I don't have clearance issues with 255-60/15's but the thing rides like a lumber wagon. I would like to put +1" over Espos and a smaller tire if needed for a better ride.
IMO, I think sway bars before T bars is the order for body roll.
The BCE/wagon springs are to long. Don’t bother.
Do both sway bars at the same time.
Modern tires work excellent with the old suspension.
Wider is better for handling with a small assist in body roll since there more rubber on the ground vs a skinny tire that will roll. Over to the edge quicker.
Been there done that!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
did not know wagon springs were different with a bodies
disagree on modern tires/ wheels with soft suspension, too much body roll and camber changes
you can do both sway bars at the same time
just do not do the rear springs/ bar before the fronts- you can swap ends
disagree on modern tires/ wheels with soft suspension, too much body roll and camber changes
you can do both sway bars at the same time
just do not do the rear springs/ bar before the fronts- you can swap ends
Model dependent, but why look for old springs to help your old springs when new ones will do the job better than when your old springs were new?
Your suggestion doesn’t make sense.
I think your seriously missing something here.
Body roll is largely controlled by the anti sway bars.
Minorly by the T bars.
The T bars are for mostly up and down motion. Side to side in a minor way.
Someone above mentioned no rear sway bar. My 66 has a front only and I wish it had a rear bar. The front doesn't body roll but the rear does. You get a goofy body twist then. It doesn't need to corner like it's on rails but if the front and rear reacted the same it would be a lot more fun.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
you can get old springs re heat treated and re-arched by any competent spring shop
toolguy measure how far apart your frame rails and springs are-- if close to a cordoba then the cordoba bar is a bolt in get the lower spring plates
if not what A body width cars had a rear sway or do you have to go aftermarket
toolguy measure how far apart your frame rails and springs are-- if close to a cordoba then the cordoba bar is a bolt in get the lower spring plates
if not what A body width cars had a rear sway or do you have to go aftermarket
I have found that to be more a waste of time and money.
A Cordoba is a B body with different lean th springs. They will not fit an A body.
I’m not sure about what early A body cars had or had not, but from ‘67 forwards they were certainly an option.
Aftermarket sway bars are easy to get.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
rumble I'm talking about the distance between the frame rails B & C body (at least late B Body) are the same IDK about A
Buy, start reading...............anything, there are others.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250584/?tag=joeychgo-20
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
The "308" heads might work with the KB flat-tops at zero deck, but they are NOT closed chamber "quench" heads. I built a .060" over 318 (328") using those very pistons and "302" heads, which ARE closed chamber, but no quench is available with the negative deck of those slugs. I had the heads fitted with 360 valves (1.88 x 1.60") and deshrouded with a mill-job to get the chamber size small again. I used a 270S comp cam ([email protected]", .468" lift, 110LSA, .014-.030" lash range) with 273 rocker gear and a Street Dominator (small port) single plane intake and 625 Street Demon carb. I call it my "baby 340"-LOL-and it pulls my '85 D-150 with authority. Gets 20mpg hwy with 3.55 gears and a 833 O/D trans, sounds lopey but will pull overdrive at amazingly low speeds.
1969moparDART
Well-Known Member
already got it i just want opinions and input more than anything here, but thanks man
NICE! Only 12 cubes behind the 340 @ that point. Not a huge deficit.
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
Yep, and this block was in cherry shape at .030" over, I had built it for a friend who totalled his truck ('87 D-150) with very few miles on the motor. He sold it to me as "kept inside since pulled" but water had gotten in a couple of cylinders and rust-pitted the bores. It took .060" to completely clean up the rust (I was hoping for .040"), so I was nervous about wall thickness. No problems with heating up or any failures so far, but my truck it's now in has no A/C or even P/S. I put my own "302" heads on it, his were open chambers, and I saved the .430/.450" hydraulic cam for another magic 318 build.
Is that the OE 340 camshaft or upgraded split duration unit @ [email protected] intake duration?
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
260/268 MoPar PurpleShaft. Supposedly more torque and similar HP to the 340/360HP stick with similar driveability. It's a hot RV cam in a 360 (used one as such in a heavy D250 with 3.55 gears, highway towing, outran a 351 old school Ford Ligntning with it in the 1/4) or a mild street machine cam in a 318.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
260 MP is shorter on the seat than the stock 340 268
that said the 260 is a lot more "intense" compared to the lazy stock cam
so it should give you more torque and be about the same in the HP dept
let us know how it works
I would not use a stock 340 cam in anything these days- even in an early higher compression 340 you can do better and in a later low compression 340-360 it leaves a lot of torque on the table- get it really revved up it's just ok long closing ramps on both the intake and even more so on the exhaust gives reversion which helps with smog
that said the 260 is a lot more "intense" compared to the lazy stock cam
so it should give you more torque and be about the same in the HP dept
let us know how it works
I would not use a stock 340 cam in anything these days- even in an early higher compression 340 you can do better and in a later low compression 340-360 it leaves a lot of torque on the table- get it really revved up it's just ok long closing ramps on both the intake and even more so on the exhaust gives reversion which helps with smog
Bighead440
Well-Known Member
Have used it in 318's and one 360 with good results. The old 260/.430" BB PurpleShaft worked good in my '71 SportFury 383 2bbl cast-crank engine, which I converted to 4bbl with a stock '72 400HP (no EGR) TQ intake and matching carb from a '72 Fury I police car. 2.76:1 gears and plenty of torque off the line.
well, I certainly have nothing against working with what ya got. To me, I'd look at all options. I'd say the best money spent for your 3k dollars, in my opinion, would be this:
This combo, almost guaranteed, would exceed your 318 build in power and torque, stay under budget, and the pieces could be quickly acquired. You'd have a roller cam for todays oils.
- buy a good running 360 magnum. Usually 350-400 bucks will get ya one that runs great, and really no need for a rebuild.
- EQ heads - 1000 bucks.
- air gap intake - 160 Chinese; 300 edelbrock.
- cam - 130 for a regrind; 350 for an "off the shelf" cam.
- oil pan/pick up - 100
- 75 bucks for a double roller timing chain.
This combo, almost guaranteed, would exceed your 318 build in power and torque, stay under budget, and the pieces could be quickly acquired. You'd have a roller cam for todays oils.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Sorry to diverge but this caught my eye.
As for the lumber truck ride quality, I think you would be pleased at what a set of Bilsteins with normal valving will do for that.
Case in point is some Porshe's: the T-bar rates to get a normal vertical spring rate are such that that a z-bar (an anti-anti-sway bar in essence) is needed to REDUCE the stiffness of the T-bars in the roll direction, to get the desired roll rate.
Now back to the engine discussion.
TMM, you may want to look into the topic of 'roll axis', which is the slope of the line between the rear and front roll centers. With the raised rear, then roll axis has likely gotten too steep. The rear roll center is fixed on that design by the geometry. There is not much to do to fix that without lowering the rear again, or use a panhard rod/track bar, or raise the front. The addition of an anti-sway bar will not much change the rear roll center, IIRC.
As for the lumber truck ride quality, I think you would be pleased at what a set of Bilsteins with normal valving will do for that.
Sorry to be disagreeable here, but that is not true. The anti-roll rate is set by the combination of the main springs AND any anti-roll bar. You can have more or less of either contributing to the overall roll spring rate. With no anti-sway bar, then 100% is set by the main springs.
Case in point is some Porshe's: the T-bar rates to get a normal vertical spring rate are such that that a z-bar (an anti-anti-sway bar in essence) is needed to REDUCE the stiffness of the T-bars in the roll direction, to get the desired roll rate.
Now back to the engine discussion.
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