2 more electric gremlins down, one left

[Bobacuda]

Went out to work on the electric gremlins. It was quite dark in my shop, so I pulled the headlight switch (just because) and the “bright light” indicator light was working! I think it might have been working earlier, but it was too bright in my shop to tell.

On to the horns. I have chased the wires back from the horns to the column connector. The ground problem was in the column/steering wheel area. Borrowed a steering wheel puller and found that there was overspray, body shop dust and old grease that had seized the “wheel on the peg” that grounds to the grounding plate (also coated with old grease and grime) under the steering wheel - sorry I don’t know the correct names of the parts.

Got it all cleaned up, put it back on, shorted the ground wire and the horns worked. Put it all back together and could not get the horns to work when pushing the ring. Figured out the contact plate under the horn ring wasn’t completing the ground. I flushed it with brake cleaner, then WD40. Put it all back together and now the horn gremlins have been defeated.

On to the reverse lights!

 

[4spdragtop]

Cant remember column or console shift? If console, the reverse lamp switch is by the shifter under console. White and purple wires I believe. If column shift, the switch is in column....somewhere lol.
Without starting car, put in reverse and chk for power at bulbs. Could be loose linkage also, or need adjusting.

 

[Bobacuda]

My back is killing me, but I now have reverse lights!

The electric switch on the console shifter was gummed up with decades of gunk from prior to us owning the car. I discovered this with an ohm meter. I removed the switch and flushed it with carb cleaner, followed by WD40. Then I blew out the excess with an air hose. Put it back on, adjusted it and BINGO.

Still need to put a new light receptacle in for the console and wire the second set of speakers. Otherwise, I will recheck all the electric stuff and tidy up under the dash.

 

[4spdragtop]

Maybe spray the switch with liquid graphite?

 

[67Dart273]

Progress however slight..............

 

[Bobacuda]

Damn electric gremlin has migrated to the console shifter bulb. BTW, that “57” bulb has a skanky plastic receptacle.

Anyhow, the ground wire checks good, and the old harness from the console to where it connects to the M&H new harness checks good. I connected new harness orange hot wire there to one lead on the voltmeter and the other volt meter lead to ground. Turned on ignition and lights - nothing. No volts.

Recommendations?

 

[Mattax]

Rotate the headlight knob when its in the park or headlight position.
If not, check the fuse.

edit.
Are saying the instrument and radio lamps turn on, but the console lamp does not?

I might be able to help you find that junction.
edit2:
The only junction between the welded juntion and console connector is the radio connectior. At the top in this diagram.

 

[Mattax]

 

[Bobacuda]

Mattax -
I found the junction and have since read that it fires up with the dash bulbs.

I also figured out that the LED bulb I have for it is +/- specific, and the wiring is opposite of what I need.

Had my wife pick me up a conventional bulb to put in and try tomorrow. Will connect all wires, insert conventional bulb, pull the headlight switch and adjust the dash lamps while watching for signs of life in the new console bulb.

 

[cudamark]

Just rotate your LED bulb 180 degrees and reinstall it.

 

[Bobacuda]

A “57” bulb makes contact through its metal base and in the center of the bottom - can’t just reverse it. I figured out the hard way that the LED bulb I bought would not work for this installation.

Disconnected the sections of the harness, starting at the console bulb an worked my way back to the main harness- with the incandescent bulb, it tested good back to the main harness.

Checked the fuse and at some point, it blew. Replaced it, connected wires, hooked up the battery, pulled the light switch, twisted the knob and I now have console lights.

And even with LED’s the instrument lighting sucks.

 

[4spdragtop]

Make sure all LEDs are lighting up. They are polarity sensitive.

 

[Ironracer]

A “57” bulb makes contact through its metal base and in the center of the bottom - can’t just reverse it. I figured out the hard way that the LED bulb I bought would not work for this installation.

Disconnected the sections of the harness, starting at the console bulb an worked my way back to the main harness- with the incandescent bulb, it tested good back to the main harness.

Checked the fuse and at some point, it blew. Replaced it, connected wires, hooked up the battery, pulled the light switch, twisted the knob and I now have console lights.

And even with LED’s the instrument lighting sucks.

I bought some at a car show. Alot of em were bad, but some worked! Put them in my Jeeps interior lights. Hard to find things in the dark when working!

 

[cudamark]

Oh, I was thinking interior light...sorry.

 

[Mattax]

And even with LED’s the instrument lighting sucks.

Everyone has different preferences of instrument lighting.
But its possible that the LED's do not distribute the light to effectively illuminate the way you want.
You can compare with the photo of my restored dash with the 158 bulbs in this post
Rally cluster dash bulbs..