292/508 question

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...all this advice and no specs on engine?
At the very least give us the info on your heads
and rear tires and i'm assuming it's an A body?
 
He doesn't care about the performance, wants a nasty cruise show idle, etc. He'll get a nasty idle with a 292 purple cam that's for sure.

Engine specs and other specs are irrelevant to his end desires.
 
Hey crackedback you mentioned you are about to remove a 292 cam from an engine someone else put together. So why not advance it to where you recommend 6 to 8 degrees? Or you have another grind in mind?:rolleyes: just wondering.
 
Ji have a little doubt. I have been using stock rockers. Is there a need to change them to the HD versions of mopar or Mancini has their version of HD rockers too. Mancini has the set fir $99 plus shipping. So someone please chime in!!:)
 
Hey crackedback you mentioned you are about to remove a 292 cam from an engine someone else put together. So why not advance it to where you recommend 6 to 8 degrees? Or you have another grind in mind?:rolleyes: just wondering.

That engine is coming out and may go into something else. I may re-degree the cam when I pull the gear drive off it at the same time. The car is a TOTAL dead dog. Sounds great, that's about it. The headers sure woke it up after removing the 70 340 HP exhaust... :) Now it runs like a dog with 2 legs.

I have a couple other cams that I may want to put in the engine, solid cams.
 
I like solid lifter cams in rowdy small blocks, but as a low maintenance experiment, I built a 367 (360+.040") with the cheap Speed-Pro 4-eyebrow cast/hyper pistons (H405P ?), ARP rod bolts and no balancing. Decked the block to -.010" clearance and used the thin MrGasket head gaskets (.028"). I had some fully ported big-valve J-heads laying around, so I ran those with strong single springs from Hughes and 273 rockers, modified to use solid-length pushrods with hydraulic lifters (slight ratio increase). For CAMSHAFT I used the then relatively new "Purple-Plus" cam from Comp Cams. It is a split pattern ".508" with 247/254*@.050" duration and 108LSA. Another trick I employed was the "V-MAX" Rhoads lifters that adjust off the BOTTOM of the lifter plunger travel. These work absolutely AWESOME and refuse to pump-up. The little motor screams past 7000rpm with ease, and outperformed a "380HP" crate Magnum 360 in great tune by .5 sec in the 1/8mi. with the same exact carb, torque converter and headers. I think the "Purple-Plus" cams in all sizes outperform their single pattern, proven but obsolete MoPar PurpleShaft counterparts. My .02c
 
If you don't have a true 10.5:1, advance it more as long as you have clearance....

I install those in stock 340's at 100-101 range.

I think you'll be disappointed. I've swapped those for people, going from a 284 to the 292. The 284 outperformed or was equal to a 292 except for about the last 500 of RPM range.

How about using a 1.6 rocker arm ratio on the 508 cam? How would this affect it?
 
How about using a 1.6 rocker arm ratio on the 508 cam? How would this affect it?

It will increase the duration at the valve a smidge, but with a great increase in lift. Should be aprox .542" at the valve with 1.6's. I did this trick on a .528" mechanical MoPar cam in my old 360 at got .563" before lash, theoretical.
 
How about using a 1.6 rocker arm ratio on the 508 cam? How would this affect it?

The heads on this thing are the bottleneck along with some other stuff. I hate the build and would not have put it together like this.

1.6's wouldn't make any difference, imo.
 
How about using a 1.6 rocker arm ratio on the 508 cam? How would this affect it?

I actually really like the 508 cam have run it for 30 years lol. The not streetable **** on this cam is not true. Down shift your car run it in town at a bit higher rpm. I wouldent suggest running it with a low idle. I ran mine 1200-1500 idle and the car ran great in the car ran it in 4 cars 4 differnt motors great cam. Mp cams racer brown. Are good you just have to know how to drive it in the city and not try to Cruz at 1900 rpms. Lol
 
I actually really like the 508 cam have run it for 30 years lol. The not streetable **** on this cam is not true. Down shift your car run it in town at a bit higher rpm. I wouldent suggest running it with a low idle. I ran mine 1200-1500 idle and the car ran great in the car ran it in 4 cars 4 differnt motors great cam. Mp cams racer brown. Are good you just have to know how to drive it in the city and not try to Cruz at 1900 rpms. Lol

It's got one nasty sounding idle and I love it.
When your just cruising along and you stuff your foot through the floorboard that 8 inch converter hits and the RPMs are up, it's Tallyho.
 
I was talking to jim at racer brown,about the cam i have that was ground approx 1980, he said they didnt grind the purpleshafts around that time
 
just picked up a NOS 292/508 cam and lifters kit, still in direct connection box with dc break in lube.appears to be from 1980, would anyone recollect who was grinding cams for mopar back then?thanks

To your original question as to "Who" ground the cam...........why does it matter?? The 108 version will have a ruffer idle than the 112, and as already stated, there are lots of cam grinders putting out mean sounding idle cams.........personally I think that's a poor way to choose a cam, just my opinion.
 
Poor way to pick a cam, sure. But then again sounds better than most of the newer grinds! And gets the job done! Proven grind. Just it's not for everyone.:steering::)
 
I was talking to jim at racer brown,about the cam i have that was ground approx 1980, he said they didnt grind the purpleshafts around that time
I remember the 474 lift purple shaft that was the (street hemi grind ). Out of 1975 direct connection catalog. The 510 cam high performance for 4 speed was under racer brown from the catalog.
 
To your original question as to "Who" ground the cam...........why does it matter?? The 108 version will have a ruffer idle than the 112, and as already stated, there are lots of cam grinders putting out mean sounding idle cams.........personally I think that's a poor way to choose a cam, just my opinion.
The 108 has a pretty raunchy idle at 11.3Scr (with aluminum heads), allrightee. But another thing I liked about it was the little dust-devils my twin 3" turndowns made while idling along on gravel roads.
But the thing I liked most was the sound of those twin cannons at 7000rpm, mixed with the howling 325s, the roaring TQ, and barely being able to shift the A833 fast enough.
 
I was talking to jim at racer brown,about the cam i have that was ground approx 1980, he said they didnt grind the purpleshafts around that time
The cam you have is purple. That should answer your question it’s a Direct connection purple shaft cam.thats what I would call it. I’m pretty sure my 508 cam was purple too when I ordered it out of dc.
 
Hey moparhead did advance your 292 cam any? Dot to dot? Or degreed?:rolleyes: just need ideas for when I go to throw mine in! Crackedback has suggested to advance cam 6 to 8 crank degrees or 3 to 4 cam degrees.
 
That helps with the lower end for more torque.
Do you need more torque down there?
 
Hey moparhead did advance your 292 cam any? Dot to dot? Or degreed?:rolleyes: just need ideas for when I go to throw mine in! Crackedback has suggested to advance cam 6 to 8 crank degrees or 3 to 4 cam degrees.

You advance for more low end tq and retard for high end hp if I recall correct. I did mine dot to dot I remember advancing one 508. But it was just like what rumble fish said helped me on the low end.
 
Here's a question I think the answer is a no. Can a car with the 292 cam have A/C? Probably due to the nature of the beast it will not do to well especially in hot climate. I wonder if using the sanden style compressor will be more forgiving?:rolleyes:
 
Here's a question I think the answer is a no. Can a car with the 292 cam have A/C? Probably due to the nature of the beast it will not do to well especially in hot climate. I wonder if using the sanden style compressor will be more forgiving?:rolleyes:
I think that would sorta depend on the combination of ;cylinder pressure, idle-speed ,stall,and tune.
But I think with iron heads, you're probably right.
With iron heads and pumpgas, you are sorta limited to 160psi with open chamber heads and about 165 with a tightQ, both at sealevel. With the cam in at 104, that cam is sadly lacking in low-rpm power. Tic-over at 650 in gear ,is a tuff tune, and an A/C compressor would probably drag it down to a stall. However, you could just wire in a Hobbs switch to the clutch and disallow it's operation below a certain manifold vacuum.
Advanced to in at 100 that cam perks up a bit,at low rpm; but if you have to do that, then you might as well just put the 284 in instead, cuz the overlap period is so far out of sync, that the 292 is gonna act like a 284 anyway. AND, the 292 is gonna be horrible on fuel compared to the 284.
>Picture this with the 292 in at 100:
the durations are; intake-compression-power -exhaust;
292-114-98-292, and It has 76* of overlap but the installed centerline is splitting it as 46 to the intake and 30 to the exhaust. This is backwards and totally reduces the ability of the header to pull on the intake, AND pushes a bunch of EGR up into the intake.
> now picture the 284/292/108 in at 104. now we have;
284-114-102-292, and it has 72* of overlap with the split now 38 to intake and 34 to exhaust. This is now 8* less EGR and 4* earlier pull on the intake charge. That's a win-win right there. But that is not the whole of it. Check out the 4* more power stroke. This is a little longer push on the power stroke, getting you a little better fuel economy.
Since the compression degrees is 114 in both cases, the cylinder pressure will be the same. What that 292 is giving you that the 284 is not, is an intake charge full of 8* more EGR, which ain't doing a lick of good.
That 292 is a high compression cam,and likes stroke, and does not do well below 160psi in a 3.315.
Here are some examples in a 340 at various compression ratios;
ICA--Scr--Dcr--Psi--VP
70*--9.8-7.45-146-109VP This is in at 104; the regular install,typical Scr
66*--9.8-7.69-152-118VP This is in at 100; Notice the large jump in VP
70*-10.5-7.96-159-119VP Compression increased for open chamber heads
70*-10.8-8.18-165-123VP Compression increased for tight-Q
70*-12.0-9.06-188-140VP Compression increased for aluminum heads and tight-Q
Follow the VP, cuz that is the indicator of low-rpm performance up to about 3000/3600.
Here it is in my engine, a 367 Eddie headed ,wanna be racer.
70*-11.3-8.74-176-143VP Notice less compression/more VP/plus 27 cubes. I was very disappointed with that VP in my combo.

VP is more important with a manual trans and lo-perf gears. This is because the rear tires are directly connected to the crank, without the help of the fluid-coupling or it's TM characteristics.
With an automatic, you can just throw more stall at it until you find you're happy place.
Read about VP here;
V/P Index Calculation
And of course, here is the 284/292/108 in at 104, for open-chambers;
66*-10.2-7.99-160-124VP Compare this to the blue above; less Scr/ more VP

But before you get too excited about 124VP,lol
this is about what a 5.2Magnum makes, or an early 318LA. Seriously. Get you a big stall and big gears, and an overdrive, cuz that 292 doesn't come alive until about 4200 or 34mph with; iron heads, an optimized Scr,and a 904/4.10/29tire combo. Ok to be fair, it was sorta waking up at 3600 in my tightQ eddie headed combo. I just revved the crap out of it and dumped the clutch with my 9.44 starter gear,to break the tires loose; and then away I went.
 
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This grind was developed for the track and A Stick.

We have used it for more than intended with AT’s, a loose TQ makes it streetable, add air and you are really pushing the envelope.
 
Aj has it right in post 33 and just above
advancing screws up your power stroke opening the exhaust too early and opens the intake too early diluting your mixture with exhaust gass, exhaust closing too early hurts scavenge
just figure out where you want your valve events IO IC EO EC and get a cam ground accordingly--
overlap and LCA should be a result not an input
run a larger pulley on the AC Compressor and a high speed (or full throttle) cut out
1969383S has it right - bracket racing cam and way obsolete
you can get more duration at 200 from a modern 270
 
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