Yea I have, the air gap va the m1. What did yours run in the 1/4
292/508 question
- Thread starter rigger3006
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Mid to high 12’s in an E body 4 spd 4.10 geared Cuda.
Heavy girl with 235/60/15 BFG’s. This was about 30 years ago.
Heavy girl with 235/60/15 BFG’s. This was about 30 years ago.
Damn how much hp? And yeah the rpm ran better on the street imo and at the strip. I did run a one inch carb spacer on it. It had x heads had a little clean up on the port noting serious. But anyway it ran a tenth or two better the m1 intake has its advantages it ran better at 6-6500 I dident dyno or anthing but if I had a solid cam I’d run the m1.
I never dyno’d the engine. I ran this 31 years ago. (Now that I did the math.) I’m probably off on the times a bit. It was a long time ago and many many combos ago. LMAO
I used to be fierce with the stick. I remember taking it to 6600 for shifts and slamming gears.
The 508 cam is really a kick *** cam behind a 4 speed and 391 or lower gears. We ran a couple 340s and 360s and were in the low low 12s the motors had just around 400-410 hp on dyno and a nice time slip to boot on absolute **** tires not as bad as bias thoe XD. All the same can thoe I had rpm intake my buddy has the m1. 6600 rpm? Yeah i would go with m1 for that high
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
And that was exactly what that cam was made for. Not the guy with a 3.55 gear and a dual plane intake. It was meant for guys like me, with a 2.66 first gear, 4.56's in the back, a Strip Dominator and Hooker 5204 headers. I was running low 12's at almost 110 and drove the car every day, every where. It wasn't a pig down low either. But I had the Pistons out the hole .040 to get an honest 10.5:1 on pump gas and I installed it at 104 because I had a timing chain (2 degrees for chain stretch and 2 degrees because I didn't want it to run past about 6800 and make power.
The sweet spot was 3500 but it stated getting mouthy at 4000. By 4500 it was very pissed off and stayed that way until 6800. My gear box math said I was close to my lower RPM on the shift change and if I shifted at 6800 it would fall right back to where it needed to be.
I have no doubt if I had the correct clutch that car would have went 11.60's on the street.
There is nothing wrong with that cam if you use it for what it's for. To me, any lower RPM than fall back RPM from shift is just for cruising. That's what I call bottom end. If you think blowing the tires off at 2000 and looking too cool for school it's not your cam. Now, if you want to put on a smoke show and don't mind spinning the hides at 5000 then it is your cam.
Ultra low speed torque sells magazines. Correctly placed gear splits and camming accordingly is always always quicker and faster.
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QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Hey yellow rose did you advance 508 cam 4 degrees @ cam or crank?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
It makes sense since you already had a true 10:5:1 compression. I have kb107 flat top pistons & x heads so I probably am lower in compression. Just not sure since engine is together & never checked true comp. So I may need to go more advanced to keep some psi. I hope more stall and the 3.91's will do the trick.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yep, you are in the mid 9's for SCR and the low 7's for DCR at a 104 ICL. YR had his DCR up in the low 8's..... would've been a decently wide torque RPM range.
Did you ever decide on the A/C? I can't see why it would not work. The issues I see are:
- If the idle is low, the compressor will not be cooling 100%, but that is only at idle.
- If you rip and snort to high RPM's you might want to use a larger compressor pulley (if you can get it) or a smaller crank pulley to slow the compressor down a bit. IIRC the Sanden compressors are rated up into the 6000-6500 continuous RPM range, and a bit high for peak RPM, though a bit lower seems safer, and you can manage that with pulley sizes.
Here are a few Sanden specs, thiguh the modle you may select may be different.... figure out the modle you want and you can find the RPM specs.
https://www.sanden.com/objects/Sanden Singapore SD7 Series Compressor Catalogue.pdf
BTW, cam advance is normally spec'd and measured in crank degrees. All cam degree specs are in crank degrees.... EXCEPT for LSA.
Did you ever decide on the A/C? I can't see why it would not work. The issues I see are:
- If the idle is low, the compressor will not be cooling 100%, but that is only at idle.
- If you rip and snort to high RPM's you might want to use a larger compressor pulley (if you can get it) or a smaller crank pulley to slow the compressor down a bit. IIRC the Sanden compressors are rated up into the 6000-6500 continuous RPM range, and a bit high for peak RPM, though a bit lower seems safer, and you can manage that with pulley sizes.
Here are a few Sanden specs, thiguh the modle you may select may be different.... figure out the modle you want and you can find the RPM specs.
https://www.sanden.com/objects/Sanden Singapore SD7 Series Compressor Catalogue.pdf
BTW, cam advance is normally spec'd and measured in crank degrees. All cam degree specs are in crank degrees.... EXCEPT for LSA.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
At some point will get a sanden set up. Summer weather here in Texas is brutal!! So I will surely advance cam 4 cam degrees using cam keys I bought some time ago from mazzolini chrysler. Which equates to 8 crank degrees.
That cam did seem to like to rpm a bit more than the stock oiling was good for. Back then, I thought I was pushing pretty hard on that front and cut the rpm ceiling to 6600.
That is a 9.8-1 with 72cc’s & a .039 gasket.
Adjust it accordingly to the head gasket dimensions.
In the Ol’E body, the 4.10’s and a 28” tire was pretty OK. The 26” tire was hard to get a good 60’. Also being BFGoodrich street tires.... not so hot though smoke shows were EZ. The 28” tire was still a street tire but at the track and a good surface, it was much better. I still couldn’t drop the clutch were she wanted to be. It had to be walked out a bit.
A decent tire would have been nice.
I recently just scored a 340 with this cam and it has TRW slugs in it. I’ll have to remove the heads again for the numbers on them. I have thought about running it as is after a check out and possible refreshing. The Duster would be a 904 trans car. I don’t have a regular 4spd trans, just an OD unit that also needs to be gotten into.
It ran good with my dual plane rpm intake but I had 391s. Sweet spot lol was in the same range
I bet the 340 you got will run good id try to get it running and see if it leaks a lot of it theses old motors are still good. Just need a new gasket here and there and some gas
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Will adjust cam advanced to get back some torque and timing will go 18° or even up to 20° or 22° initial and 34 total to avoid ping. I also have a 4200 stall dynamic 9.5 converter waiting to go in. Or I may keep the 9.5 FTI converter 3400-3600 stall not sure which to use.
trans is the 727 with pro street turbo action valve body.
trans is the 727 with pro street turbo action valve body.
I have to yet get into the lower half for an inspection. If I can get it done on a low buck spending deal, I’ll use it as is in the Duster. Stock heads and all for now. I won’t mind the minor detour from the W5 stroker build. It’s been a long time since I’ve been at the track, so, something slow would probably be good (& wise) to get into first and then work back up in power.
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Something slow?! I really don't think it will be slow. Unless you drive it like you have an egg between the gas pedal and floor!
I really don't think it will be slow. Unless you drive it like you have an egg between the gas pedal and floor! -
