3000 Stall too high?

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Meet-Joe-"Dart"

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The shop who is going to balance & build my 360, suggested that i go with a 2300 stall torque converter. And that 3000 stall on that street would be wasting my low end power, as nothing would kick in until 3000 rpm:hmph: In my last car I ran a B&M 2900 stall converter and had 0 complaints. I think I'm gonna go with the 3000 stall. (360, 30 over, balanced, medium cam, Eddy Magnum heads, roller rockers, Perf. RPM intake, Doug's headers, etc..)

Any thoughts? Feedback? Thx :salut:
 
I have a PTC 3,500 in my Duster and I love it. Great street manners and it comes to life when I mat it. Go with a quality converter, a good one makes all the difference. My PTC even lowered my cruising RPM by a couple hundred.
 
have a 3000 ultimate on my 416 904 and its owesome on the street its a real nice converter and i like it better than my dynamics they both make quality pieces .good luck
 
I am getting ready to pull the trigger on a converter for my fish / (340 now, 416 next),/ 904 / 3.91. Right now the 340 leaves the line at about 2200 and seems to stall about there on the street. new to this converter stuff. The car runs about 2200 on the street at what I think is a back country road speed limit of 45 in 3rd (no speedo). Would a higher stall "disconnect" the engine at that RPM and make the engine "float"? I need the tach to judge speed. Might need a GPS or put back in a speedo.
 
In my little dart I put a 3200 stall in it and it would only stall about 1300. Ptc said I would need a 4200 stall to be about 3000. My dad has been running a 3000 in his charger for 13 years and runs great
 
My 10 inch tci street fighter feels "tight" driven lightly...it still creeps at the stoplights.

Personally I think a 3,000 stall should be the min, unless your goal is max mpg, I kind of wish I paid a few hundred $ more and got a tight 9.5 or 9 inch converter.
 
depends on your combo really. but that 3000 rule is old school thinking. its not 1970 any more. back then yes it was too much. today with new converter technology its fine as long as your converter matches your combo. i was runng a 9 1/2" 3800 stall on the street in my dart. it felt like a stock converter just cruising around and when you nailed the loud pedal the thing would take off like a rocketship.
 
PTC is just down the road from me. Maybe I should just put in the stroker and see how that combo works. Then when I pull everything for painting give PTC the data and let them decide what would work best. No idea what is in the car right now except it has a 2.00- 2.08 60' with the worn out 340 - flashing from 1000 at the line with street tires or drag radials.

Abodyjoe describes what I think a street / strip toy should do. No intention of running in traffic, just back country roads around my place and the local (5 miles away) track.

Was that 3000 a PTC Mark?
 
PTC is just down the road from me. Maybe I should just put in the stroker and see how that combo works. Then when I pull everything for painting give PTC the data and let them decide what would work best. No idea what is in the car right now except it has a 2.00- 2.08 60' with the worn out 340 - flashing from 1000 at the line with street tires or drag radials.

Abodyjoe describes what I think a street / strip toy should do. No intention of running in traffic, just back country roads around my place and the local (5 miles away) track.

Was that 3000 a PTC Mark?

call them before you put it all together. if your 100% honest about your combo and intended use they should be able to nail the proper stall for you.
 
I had a 4800 in the 64 with a 600 lift 300 dr.cam 456gears 32inch tall tires and a 10to1 motor on the street drove it evry were and I live on the mt.was in there 3yr.with no trouble.........Artie
 
Right what I have heard. That is why I want to baseline with the stroker and other power upgrades before I get into the converter. Will only be in the temp configuration for a while anyways... Just long enough to see how it does before the car goes down for painting the main body shell.

You ought to see it now - red doors from the parts car as the doors I will be using get reworked. At least with the stroker in the Mopar guys at the track won't be making fun of it.
 
Great advice abounds! Due note that a well built converter will not feel like a slipping clutch in a bad trans. Normal or really close to a normal feel it should have.

When you call the converter place, the advice, "Be 100% honest" is the biggest bel ringer yet! WINNER!!!!!
Tell them everything and tell them what you want and what your doing with the car. Exactly, 100% all the way through.

You will be most happy with the results.
 
PTC is just down the road from me. Maybe I should just put in the stroker and see how that combo works. Then when I pull everything for painting give PTC the data and let them decide what would work best. No idea what is in the car right now except it has a 2.00- 2.08 60' with the worn out 340 - flashing from 1000 at the line with street tires or drag radials.

Abodyjoe describes what I think a street / strip toy should do. No intention of running in traffic, just back country roads around my place and the local (5 miles away) track.

Was that 3000 a PTC Mark?

No is was a turbo action. But PTC is who I will get one from. I can't remember the guys name I talked to but he said he would build me a 4200 that would stall the dart 3000 to 3200 for 500. That was a billet 9.5 and that would be built to my dart not a off the shelf
 
Right what I have heard. That is why I want to baseline with the stroker and other power upgrades before I get into the converter. Will only be in the temp configuration for a while anyways... Just long enough to see how it does before the car goes down for painting the main body shell.

You ought to see it now - red doors from the parts car as the doors I will be using get reworked. At least with the stroker in the Mopar guys at the track won't be making fun of it.

Ill still laugh but I'm the guy with a car seat in mine lol
 
Keep in mind that stall and flash are different.
Stall is all relative to tq and hp. Is very possible something that "footbrakes" at 3200 behind a 340 will tighten up behind a 416. As long as the vertor companies know what you are up to and cid they should be able to nail it on the first shot. Most will give a free adjustment if you arent happy. They can build a tight, med, or loose 3k, all will act differently. Too loose burns up top end/mph, too tight and its easy to push past the brakes and go red.
Have seen more than a few ptc's go up like hot air balloons behind mid to hi 10 sec 416s. Had much better results with either fti or turbo action units.
Everyone has their own preference i guess.
 
Call Paul Forte @ Turbo action; give him the specs. etc. I have his 3000 in a 340 Duster, great. Just put a 3000 in buddy's 500hp 440, great, drives normal, will foot brake at 3100 rpm.
 
Green: i ran their 25-2800 super st 904 unit behind the 417" motor in my valiant for several years. A little tight, left the line at 2k but that thing would lock up and carry the front tires nicely with 3.73 gears. No complaints, very tough piece. Am in process of putting it back in with the new motor to replace the alabama slip&slide.
Have you tried FTI (greg) at all?
 
I run a 3000 stall PTC in my Cuda and it works great. Drives like a nearly stock converter around town and when I nail it it winds up to a little over 3k and is gone. As Joe said it's not 1970 anymore. Back then a 3000 converter was loose and did slip a lot until you hit the stall speed. Converter technology has increased to the point where they can build a 4000 stall converter that feels nearly like a stock converter under light throttle.
 
Great response guys!! I wanted to go with 3000 stall, until my engine guy started talking me out of it. If I hadn't been reading some of the threads on here last night I probably would've made a decision I would later regret. I guess converter tech has come a long way in the past few years, some people aren't quite up to speed. Thx a bunch!! I'll call the shop in the morning.
 
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