318 roller lifter failure - not happy...

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seymour_scamp

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This stock 88 roller engine with performer intake and carb was in the scamp when I bought it 2 years ago, has been running good for me. Started maked a ticking noise and pulled valve cover to see one of the rocker arms had a bunch of slop. pushrod wasn't bent so i pulled the intake.

see below... some idiot did not put the dogbones underneath the spider on the driver side so all of those lifters have been able to rotate in the bore.

Well one lifter broke and looks like the needle bearings and broken pieces are in the engine. If I tear it down and just do new bearings and rings, is there a roller cam that has more lift, but can still use the stock valve springs in the 302 heads? I would also like to possibly just replace the driver side lifters with oem roller style. I am asking because I have no money for this right now but want back on the road.
 

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Unscheduled engine dis-assembly !!!! Sucks!!!!!!!
 
If those lifters have rotated around I guess I'm amazed it lasted as long as it did.
 
All that broken metal is now floating thru the whole motor.
Time for the engine hoist, it needs removed and dissembled.
 

you could....if their is no bottom end noise...just pull the pan, clean it out, change oil pump, stick magnet in oil pan and then change the cam/lifters and be on your way till u can afford to buy/build a new motor.
 
I have a 1990 360, just tossed the stock 410 cam a few months ago. You can use the old style lifters and cam if the motor checks out. just use the matching push rods. I think the rockers are all the same.
 
you could....if their is no bottom end noise...just pull the pan, clean it out, change oil pump, stick magnet in oil pan and then change the cam/lifters and be on your way till u can afford to buy/build a new motor.

This is what I would do just to get by for awhile. Just make sure you clean it really good and replace the oil pump pickup tube as well. Small pieces can get caught in there where you can't see.
 
If that's a worn factory engine, you might surprised at how much crap they can disgest... For now I would grab a cam and lifters and stick it in there. But the clock is ticking on that engine...
 
you could....if their is no bottom end noise...just pull the pan, clean it out, change oil pump, stick magnet in oil pan and then change the cam/lifters and be on your way till u can afford to buy/build a new motor.

If I do this are you suggesting leaving it in the car or pulling it? I'll probably pull it out, only bad part will be lining back up with my 833 bellhousing.

Also any suggestions on roller cam choice? Oh boy, they are pricey.

Anyone think I might score a cam deal at the Moster mopar show at indy tomorrow?

Thanks for the help
 
you could....if their is no bottom end noise...just pull the pan, clean it out, change oil pump, stick magnet in oil pan and then change the cam/lifters and be on your way till u can afford to buy/build a new motor.

If I do this are you suggesting leaving it in the car or pulling it? I'll probably pull it out, only bad part will be lining back up with my 833 bellhousing.

Also any suggestions on roller cam choice? Oh boy, they are pricey.

Anyone think I might score a cam deal at the Moster mopar show at indy tomorrow?

Thanks for the help



Herbert cams ....billet cams are $200, maybe even cheaper if using an iron core...then lifters are cheap if u use stock replace stuff.

For a cam choice?....hmm well...that would need a lil more info and an exact compression ratio.
You could just stick a 360 R/T cam in it...or change springs and go with something .500 lift or less to clear the guides/seals that has a lil more duration and narrower centerline to get some more rpm out of it.
I think at this point even a 340 replace flat tappet cam would get you more power than that stock roller...
but gonna need a lil more info.
 
You're right they are a idiot! How could some one miss that critical placement of the spider like that?

I have found that it is easier to pull the manual trans and engine as one unit. I have tried aligning the engine up with the bell housing before and that didn't work out. I fought with the clutch and pressure plate for longest before giving up. I even used the alignment tool. I pulled the trans out mounted it to the engine and all was good... much easier. Jack the car up in the rear so it will let the tail of the trans drop and front of the engine will up. Same thing when it goes back in.
 
Compresssion ratio would be whatever a stock 88 2bbl roller engine with 302 stock heads. All stock long block out of a diplomat. Had a performer intake and performer 600 cfm carb on it. Manifolds with dual 2" exhaust. 833 4 spd & 8.25 rear with 3.55 gear. Measured compression earlier this year... all ranged between 130-140 psi.

There's a guy on moparts with a stock 340 spec cam & tappet lifters in good shape. Would that drop in & just need new length pushrods?
 
Go to a pick and pull and find a good used roller cam and lifters for dirt cheap. Pick and pulls around me want like $15 for a cam and they tend not to care if you take the lifters, bolts, and other "insignificant" parts. Sounds like you are on a budget so that is your cheapest route. Most of those old junk yard engines will still have a good roller cam since they generally don't wear out.

If you have the space and tools I would pull the engine and clean that oil pan out and new oil pump. Yes it can be done in the car but it will be painful and you just can't do as good a job. Plus with engine out you can clean it up and paint it.
 
Oregon Cam Grinders can repair and regrind that cam cheaper than a new one.
 
I have a 99 roller I yanked,Pm me,you will be happy.

That is what I am talking about just put a used cam in there they don't wear. I would definately replace that oil pump or at least take it apart, make sure its not chewed up, and clean it out.
 
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