The ICM is not field testable without special test equipment. Substitution is what is done. I'd try to find and OEM one off of eBay.. what you get from overseas these days is questionable.
The point of the teaspoon full of fuel down the throat is that the IF the ignition is good, then it will fire off with that, even cold. Since it did not fire off, then I am pretty suspicious that something is still amiss with the ignition. 1/4 cup? Wow, that is a TON; it shouldn't have taken that much.
Do you have a volt-ohmeter so other parameters in the ignition can be tested? Things like the actual ballast and coil resistance need to be checked to be sure you have the right parts. If so, and you are willing to run down some checks, then I can list some things to measure.
You mention fuel out of the jets; do you mean the small circular 'things' down inside the carb's throats? (Those are called auxiliary or booster venturi's... see the 1st illustration here:
Automotive Systems)
At idle, there should be NO fuel visible out of these at all. Your needle valve in the float bowl may be stuck open with dirt/crud and just flooding things.. or the float level may be way off for some reason. Doing the carb rebuild is on track to clear up things like that.
Sounds like you may be plagued with 2 problems at the same time...carb + ignition. It happens.... not to mention the ball joints on the DD!
Okay, I've been away from the issue for a bit.
I am definitely making progress though, with the choke coil unhooked I can get it to fire up for a couple seconds from a cold engine though it takes 5 peddle pumps. And on it's own that's all it will do. With the choke hooked up there was nothing. After a few couple second starts I can throttle it up to keep it going. So as of this afternoon this is my current test readouts.
-Coil Voltage: Odd – pos showed 3.6V and neg showed 9.4v
-Coil Resistance: 1.7
-Ballast Resistor Resistance
Off, Upper: 2.0 Lower: 5.5
On, Upper: Lower:
-Spark Plug Gap .035 and Test
Cylinder 1: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 2: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 3: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 4: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 5: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 6: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 7: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
Cylinder 8: Hot Blue at 3/8’’ gap
-Compression Test PSI (They all seem a bit high and uneven bank to bank)
Cylinder 1: 127.5psi holding
Cylinder 2: 132psi holding
Cylinder 3: 127.5psi holding
Cylinder 4: 132psi holding
Cylinder 5: 127.5psi holding
Cylinder 6: 130psi holding
Cylinder 7: 127.5psi holding
Cylinder 8: 130psi holding
I was going to try and get it warmed up enough to stay running on it's own and get a good timing reading, It sounds a little better today even though I did nothing to the timing or cap.
The numbers in the electrical system seem off on everything?
I'm going to test it again tonight with another tester I just had to get a battery for.
And it seems odd that the passenger side bank seems a bit higher in the compression?
Thank you and everyone helping so far, I will lay out a symptom specific test and repair breakdown when this is finished.