smartken22
U.S. Navy Senior Chief
OK guys, after talking with multiple machine shops around town I have found one that I trust. Hopefully I will not get screwed a second time like I did with Crooks (Brooks) Performance! I am planning to go to Lawrence Auto Machine in Hanford, Ca. Talking with him and showing him my motor, this guy knows Mopars! Here is the planned build he recommended:
1) Pistons: He is going to use the ones I had in there and re-ring them and clean up the cylinder walls. They still have the crosshatching from the last build 40k miles ago. Pistons are KB107 0.30 over. Compression ratio is going to be 9:1
2) The rods and crank are forged already so he will clean them up and turn the crank.
3) Cam: He recommended the Comp Cams XE275HL. Specs are Hydraulic flat tappet, 0.525 lift, 0.275 duration intake, 0.287 duration exhaust on a 110 lobe separation. He can get the kit that comes with the valve springs, keepers, lifters, and timing chain. I talked to him about a roller cam and he said I could run a roller cam setup, however the block would need to be machined because the lifter valleys are chamfered. Not sure what that means. I will have to research that.
4) Heads: My stock J heads already have work done to them and have 2.02/1.6 valves in them. He plans to port match intake/headers and modify heads to match the cam.
5) Blue print balance short block. I have to provide him the damper and flywheel and he will blueprint and balance it.
6) Kevko oil pan with no windage tray. He told me to ditch the stock oil pan/windage tray!
7) ARP head bolts, rod bolts.
8 Harland Sharp roller rockers 1.5 ratio
9) Comp cams pushrods: 7958-16
10) Holley 770 Ultra Street Avenger DP
11) MSD Pro Billet Distributor
12) MSD 6AL-2 Ignition
13) MSD Blaster 2 coil
14) MSD wires
15) Holley 150HP electric fuel pump to feed everything
Of course I have to wait until I can recoup this money back from Crooks Performance before I start the build. Cost for parts comes out to $2100 and I am looking at around $500 for the machining. He will assemble the short block and I will build the rest. What do you all think?
1) Pistons: He is going to use the ones I had in there and re-ring them and clean up the cylinder walls. They still have the crosshatching from the last build 40k miles ago. Pistons are KB107 0.30 over. Compression ratio is going to be 9:1
2) The rods and crank are forged already so he will clean them up and turn the crank.
3) Cam: He recommended the Comp Cams XE275HL. Specs are Hydraulic flat tappet, 0.525 lift, 0.275 duration intake, 0.287 duration exhaust on a 110 lobe separation. He can get the kit that comes with the valve springs, keepers, lifters, and timing chain. I talked to him about a roller cam and he said I could run a roller cam setup, however the block would need to be machined because the lifter valleys are chamfered. Not sure what that means. I will have to research that.
4) Heads: My stock J heads already have work done to them and have 2.02/1.6 valves in them. He plans to port match intake/headers and modify heads to match the cam.
5) Blue print balance short block. I have to provide him the damper and flywheel and he will blueprint and balance it.
6) Kevko oil pan with no windage tray. He told me to ditch the stock oil pan/windage tray!
7) ARP head bolts, rod bolts.
8 Harland Sharp roller rockers 1.5 ratio
9) Comp cams pushrods: 7958-16
10) Holley 770 Ultra Street Avenger DP
11) MSD Pro Billet Distributor
12) MSD 6AL-2 Ignition
13) MSD Blaster 2 coil
14) MSD wires
15) Holley 150HP electric fuel pump to feed everything
Of course I have to wait until I can recoup this money back from Crooks Performance before I start the build. Cost for parts comes out to $2100 and I am looking at around $500 for the machining. He will assemble the short block and I will build the rest. What do you all think?
