340 ideas..

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MoparPowa

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as it says up top.. heres what I been fiddlin around with

418 stroker ideas:

340 Replacement Block, bored .040" over ($1,769.95) -Summit Racing
Eagle Forged ESP 4.00" Stroker Crank ($692.96) -Campbell Enterprises
Eagle Forged ESP 6.123" long H-beam Rods ($467.96) -Campbell Enterprises
Diamond Forged 4.080" bore Flat-Top Pistons ($569.95) -Campbell Enterprises
Edelbrock Performer RPM-AIR GAP Manifold ($234.95) -froogle listing
Edelbrock Performer RPM-340 Heads ($1359.97) -froogle listing
Edelbrock EPS 800 Carburetor ($289.97) -froogle listing
Overall Costs as of now ($5394.71)

Still in need of roller rockers..tappets...cam...pushrods...oil pan..etc. All that good stuff, and Im still under 6 grand. build the same power chevy for that :salut:


Prices arent exact..

(these are all guesses at to what Ive seen some strokers making)
Estimate HP: 450-500+ :evil2:
Estimate Torque: 550+ :notworth:

Any have some input for the above listed parts needed..
cam- something aggressive, but streetable
roller rockers
pushrods
tappets
all that jazz
and a link or listing of manufacturers that make a Tie-bar capable of fitting in a 59-degree rep block without any grinding, running a roller cam seems a necessity in my situation, and a pain. :wack:

thanks for any help, appreciate talking to some who have made a similiar build. If it matters, it would be going in a 63-67 A.. most likely a 65' dart

Ryan
 
You should be able to find a block cheaper than that, although it is nice to be able to buy them again. I think you could knock $1000 off of that price with a use block.
 
Thanks for the reply.. no one had said nothin for a while. :wack: The problem with a used block is just how rare a 340 is.. and the probability of me finding one in good enough condition would be, I think, very complicated. And yes, a roller cam would be wicked, but as I stated at the top, theres a problem with using a roller cam.. the tie bar cannot fit due to the beefed up block, recently moper mentioned something about a few manufacturers with tie bars and lifters that would work but I am yet to hear from him, so if anyone has any ideas/suggestions, feel free to let me know

Ryan :salut:
 
For what you are spending you can get a Mopar crate stroker motor for about the same money,and not taking a chance on crappy Eagle parts.
 
lol, a crate small block with this much power? I seriously doubt that is worth the money, besides, Im wanting to do my own build, and from what I understand, eagle cant be that bad, Ive heard the worst on some SIR rods, but never about the esp h beams
 
Bandit340... Have you heard of Hensley Performance? They build some rockin motors and drag cars but dang... you seen the prices on their LA and B/RB blocks? 7000 dollars my man... for 500 hp. Thats why I am building my own 318 stroker cause their 318 to 402 stroker cost 7000 dollars and makes 502HP. Plus I think MoparPowa is after the same thing I am... being able to look at the guys at cruises and such and say "I built it from the ground up." Eagle isnt a bad company either... the SIR rods are good to a point but everything has a limit and I might be young but I know from working on cars you ALWAYS inspect what you bought before you put it on because it may not be right.
 
Other places sell that crank for about $100 cheaper. I would think it would not be too hard to find a usable 340 block. It would be a ton cheaper to buy a used one and machine it.
 
MoparPowa said:
If it matters, it would be going in a 63-67 A.. most likely a 65' dart

Ryan

Only from the standpoint that if it doesn't have to be 'numbers matching' (IE restoring an original 340 car), why not use a 360 block? Lots cheaper and 20 more CI - before the stoker kit.

That should save you at least $1,500 off your price estimate right there!

Jay
 
Give Harland Sharpe a call or visit their website. They've been making roller rockers for years and it is the only thing they make so they know what they are doing. They arent the cheapsest but they are worth every penny. Unlike some roller rockers that are just roller tip, these are a full roller setup with needle bearings for the shaft. As far as the heads, manifold and cam, Ive had the best luck with our mother ship:cya: ..MOPAR performance. I find with companies such as Edlebrock they make stuff for every manufacturer so they cant test and modify everything they make to its full potential unlike M.P. who deal only with the best, MOPAR.
 
Just to clarify, I have yet to find a supplier who makes a tie bar for solid roller lifters that clears an MP block with no grinding. A solution could be keyed lifters, but that decision needs to be made prior to having the lifter bores bushed. A simple solution I gave to Ryan is use a 5.9L Magnum block, and the factory hydraulic roller setup, with a custom cam, or the MP block, using the factory spider and hydraulic roller lifters. You may still be lift limited, but it's a lot less $$, and safe. Or, dont use the MP block at all. A 340 block with 2 bolt steel caps is plenty strong, 4bolt caps are a waste on a factory block. Any other ideas out there?
 
Don at FBO has a roller 340, E heads, all the killer stuff inside, and hes a hard *** when it comes to those parts. Made 470 HP set up loose. He is sure he could get 500 out of it. $5,000 Has only run on dyno time.
 
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