340

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If you gotta have a 340, SCAT can grind you a 360 main crank with a 340 stroke. Then bore your block to 4.04.
I was just looking for a new stroker crank, 4.15" to get the 426 ci I want. Scat had the kind you want for about $700/$800. Mopar has one too. $?
 
Molnar has some stuff *I Think*
Try Hughesengines for greater than a 4.00 stroke crank. I forget who makes (or made) the 4.25.
 
I was just looking for a new stroker crank, 4.15" to get the 426 ci I want. Scat had the kind you want for about $700/$800. Mopar has one too. $?
How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.
 
How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.
If you need to grind away at the cylinders bottom for rod clearance, that’s about it besides the cost of the crank and pistons themselves. Rod choice can keep costs down and between the 4.00 & 4.00+ cranks, the rods can be the same. It’s piston differences that can be more money. The added stroke of .15 or .18 or .25 will need to be addressed at the piston.
 
If you need to grind away at the cylinders bottom for rod clearance, that’s about it besides the cost of the crank and pistons themselves. Rod choice can keep costs down and between the 4.00 & 4.00+ cranks, the rods can be the same. It’s piston differences that can be more money. The added stroke of .15 or .18 or .25 will need to be addressed at the piston.
I got this from a book called How to build BIG inch Mopar small blocks. I know Barnes and Nobles has it.
A 4.04in bore with a 4.25 crank will get you 435 ci. if you want as close to 426 as you can get, you need a 4.2 crank and a 4.02 bore, or a 4.15 in crank and a 4.045 in bore. A 4.1 in stroke (Seems to be the norm) and a 4.05 in bore is only 422 ci. A good cam for the street is Mopar 4876348. .501 in lift w/ 230/234 Duration. Good for about 10 sec's. Use the early 360 as it has more meat where you need it. The '75 up to the Magnums are all thin wall castings and not a good choice. Magnum's are a good choice. I'm still looking for the cylinder mod's, rod's and pistons. Bore x bore x stroke x # cyl's x .785 = C I's. for heads, use Mopar # P5007141. has 2.02" valves. W/ a good valve job you can stuff 2.08" nail head valves in them. Does this help?
 
I got this from a book called How to build BIG inch Mopar small blocks. I know Barnes and Nobles has it.
A 4.04in bore with a 4.25 crank will get you 435 ci. if you want as close to 426 as you can get, you need a 4.2 crank and a 4.02 bore, or a 4.15 in crank and a 4.045 in bore. A 4.1 in stroke (Seems to be the norm) and a 4.05 in bore is only 422 ci. A good cam for the street is Mopar 4876348. .501 in lift w/ 230/234 Duration. Good for about 10 sec's. Use the early 360 as it has more meat where you need it. The '75 up to the Magnums are all thin wall castings and not a good choice. Magnum's are a good choice. I'm still looking for the cylinder mod's, rod's and pistons. Bore x bore x stroke x # cyl's x .785 = C I's. for heads, use Mopar # P5007141. has 2.02" valves. W/ a good valve job you can stuff 2.08" nail head valves in them. Does this help?

4.18 stroke with a 4.030 bore is a 426. Hughes has a kit in the link below

Hughes Engines
 
I just picked up two 340 blocks, one is a '68 & the other a '73. Both stock bores. The guy I got them from got the '73 out of a boneyard in '77 so very low miles, in fact hardly a wear lip in the cylinder. Both cleaned up now and magnafluxed.

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How much more work to the block is required to run the 4.15" vs the 4" crank? Obviously rods and/or pistons have to be different and will be more expensive, but I wouldn't mind hanging a 426 badge on the hood and have it be truthful.
Look into shorter Chevy aftermarket rods for a 2.100" rod bearing, or even 2.000". You can then grind the crank journals down and even offset grind them to adjust the stroke a bit and/or piston heights. You might have to narrow up the big ends of such rods a bit.
 
Look into shorter Chevy aftermarket rods for a 2.100" rod bearing, or even 2.000". You can then grind the crank journals down and even offset grind them to adjust the stroke a bit and/or piston heights. You might have to narrow up the big ends of such rods a bit.
Just for those looking for their block, what is the VIN on the 68?
 
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