360 into 64

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64barracuda said:
So the problem is still- should I use the 273 manifolds on the 360. Half of you say yeah, why the hell wouldn't you-just grind your head, the other half says It will choke it out and the gaskets won't hold. I would need headers because apparently the only other manifolds that fit are on a dakota that is impossible to find. I am confused as hell. I wouldn't mind using the 273 manifolds but dad would kick my *** if I started grinding an engine head. It's your thing if you start grinding your engine at home, I'm just saying I wouldn't grind mine. There are no cheap headers so maybe I should just think of something to do later. I didn't want to piss anyone off.


Thanks anyway
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You could always just build a nice pair of 318 heads. Put some 1.88 valves in them and a little port work. That way the manifolds will fit and hold a gasket. You might lose a little flow at high RPM's but it should still see 6500 with the right cam.
 
I have 273 manifold on my 65 dart with a 360 in it and the only thing you have to do is grind the back exhaust flang on the head on the drivers side for clearance headers are fender well dump which means cutting a bunch of the fender well out and about $750.00 go with manifolds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I love my headers with my 360 but they can try you patiance
 

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I would be looking at the pictures of your headders on this 360 abody and thinking this car is set up to go in a straight line only? It looks very nicely done, but not much room in the suspension between the headders to turn right or left? Is this car to be a 1/4 mile strip only car as opposed to street car? I do like your work do not get me wrong I am just trying to understand the ultimate goal of your project. What is your estimated 1/4 mile time and speed? Or am I wrong about turning ability with this set up?
 
Here is the detail on "grinding the head". It is NOT a big deal at all.

On the 360, there are elongated bosses for the smog port hole under each exhaust port. The number 7 cylinder is where the interference is. the drivers 273 stock manifold curves back to the port to wrap down and under the steering shaft. The 273 does not have the elongated boss. When the 273 manfold is placed on the 360 head, the manifold touches the edge of the boss, to the firewall side of the smog port. Using an angle grinder, take off a small area of the boss by the smog port.

The best way to do it is out of the car. put the manifold against the 360 head, you see right away where it hits. Mark it, grind away at the boss until if fits flush. Thats all there is to it.

You will also have to plug the smog ports. I drilled mine then tapped it (~ 1/4 deep) for a 5/16 bolt. I then coated it with locktite "green" and cranked it in tight. Then I used a cut off wheel and cut the bolt flush, its never coming out for sure!

good luck.
 
IMHO, these cars LOVE small blocks. 318 are great for 13-14 second cars. 360 and 340s will get you to into the 12s without headers. low 12s? better have good headers.
 
Grinding the boss on the head will give it the clearance you need. As far as blowing out gaskets, i had that problem. I had to have the manifolds trued up by machining the flanges. That created another problem... The manifolds where up against the head and I had no more meat to cut. So I used 1/2 aluminum plate, used a 360 exhaust gasket and cut out 3 spacers. Made a transition from the 360 port size to the 273 exhaust size. Pluged the smog ports with screws and jb weld ground smooth. Used two gaskets, 360 on head, and 318 on the manifold. 5 years no leaks yet.
 
65cudalover said:
I would be looking at the pictures of your headders on this 360 abody and thinking this car is set up to go in a straight line only? It looks very nicely done, but not much room in the suspension between the headders to turn right or left? Is this car to be a 1/4 mile strip only car as opposed to street car? I do like your work do not get me wrong I am just trying to understand the ultimate goal of your project. What is your estimated 1/4 mile time and speed? Or am I wrong about turning ability with this set up?
Click to expand...

Yes this is a street and strip car drive it to the track and race it and do some cruising. the car will most likely be in the low 11s when done i took it out for some shake down passes and ran 11.90 with not much throttle.

thanks
 
port match the factory 273 manifolds, or at least get them close. I have done it. and you may have to grind a lil 3/4 inch square area on the lower rear of the block so the manifold doesn't hit it. It is no big deal. If you are running a mild 360, it will run just fine. Go with it.
 
I have a mild 360 in my car for about 1 1/2 years and 3500 miles now. I have the stock 273 manifolds on mine, and have had no issues. Just like the guys have said, you have to do a little grinding on the boss under the #7 cylinder port. I found out about that after I had the engine in. I have been told that there is about 25-30 hp to be gained by using headers. unless I was racing the car, I wouldn't bother with headers.
 
Is there some reason for not using a pair of 340 stock manifolds ? I'm asking, since I've never toyed with this body style unless it was with headers.

Southernman
 
Southernman said:
Is there some reason for not using a pair of 340 stock manifolds ? I'm asking, since I've never toyed with this body style unless it was with headers.

Southernman
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That is exactly what I am doing. 73 340 manifolds for my 349 stroker that's going in my 65 Barracuda. I'm still collecting parts. I can't see dropping that much money in a set of headers.
 
340 manifolds use to be cost prohibitive at one time. Maybe they still are to some of us. They don't work on 4speed cars with the 10.5 bell because of the Z-bar linkage.
 
Southernman said:
Is there some reason for not using a pair of 340 stock manifolds ? I'm asking, since I've never toyed with this body style unless it was with headers.

Southernman
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If you're referring to the '68-70 340 manifolds. it can be done if you're willing to do some modifying. First, it'll have to be a manual steering car and you'll have to have custom front pipes made. On the passenger side, you have to flatten the little square bulge(s) in the inner fender by the shock tower for clearence and you'll have to use bolts instead of studs in the head or you'll have to install the block first and then bolt-on the head and manifold as a unit. There just isn't enough room to get the manifold back enough to get it over the studs. I guess you could take the engine mounts loose, jack the engine up, and move it sideways enough to do it too but I haven't tried that method. I don't know what would be involved in using the '71-up manifolds as those didn't interest me back when I investigated the available manifold/header possibilities.
 
Your quickest,easiest and cheapest option right now is use your 273 manifolds... You'll have to get the weighted(notched) b&m 360 flex plate if its automatic, the trans will bolt up....
What gaskets are you using??? Header gaskets??? They are too thick...a shim style gasket or none, they are 2 machined surfaces. Maybe just use copper silicone??? just make sure you close up the air holes under the exhaust port...
Later 318 and magnum manifolds will work on the passenger side, but the driver side is unique to the early abodies....
I used the hooker 5208 headers on my 64 Dart w/360...


Bob
 
64barracuda said:
So the problem is still- should I use the 273 manifolds on the 360. Half of you say yeah, why the hell wouldn't you-just grind your head, the other half says It will choke it out and the gaskets won't hold. I would need headers because apparently the only other manifolds that fit are on a dakota that is impossible to find. I am confused as hell. I wouldn't mind using the 273 manifolds but dad would kick my *** if I started grinding an engine head. It's your thing if you start grinding your engine at home, I'm just saying I wouldn't grind mine. There are no cheap headers so maybe I should just think of something to do later. I didn't want to piss anyone off.


Thanks anyway
Click to expand...

you don't have to grind the heads, the only thing you would have to do if your using dakota manifolds is slightly grind it down (manifold not the engine head) to fit an A body, as far as dakota manifold being hard to find there not, the 1992 model year v8's were better but they will work from 1991-2000 with a 5.2 or 5.9.As far as the 273 manifolds not fitting... they will but you will have to plug the air ports in the 360 heads (below the exhaust ports) as the 273 manifolds won't cover them and you will have an annoying exhaust leak, if your not building a drag car or are on a tight budget a set 273 manifold will work fine for the time being
 
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