Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
A member here did a good thread on the standard replacement cast iron Magnum heads.Has anybody got any first hand experience with the new castings - negative or positive?
Speedmaster magnum inspection w/Justin
A member here did a good thread on the standard replacement cast iron Magnum heads.Has anybody got any first hand experience with the new castings - negative or positive?
If you’re wanting to go efi but wanting to save some money, consider keeping the factory mpfi injection. Course, the downside to using the factory mpfi is you’re stuck with either the kegger intake, the expensive Hughes intake or having a machine shop add bungs to a carbureted intake.This group has got the carb ticking through my mind, but the EFI for longevity and long miles still seems more stuck. I’ve heard the same on the heads - too much choice ! Am going to look up Charlie Servedio shortly - thank you for the tip!
If you’re wanting to go efi but wanting to save some money, consider keeping the factory mpfi injection. Course, the downside to using the factory mpfi is you’re stuck with either the kegger intake, the expensive Hughes intake or having a machine shop add bungs to a carbureted intake.
Oh yeah, I didn’t think about the flywheel/manual issue. I plan to put the factory efi back on the 5.9 in my Duster but I have an intake that’s had bungs added and I’m also running an ax-15 transmission, so I was able to use a factory ram flywheel.Even with the Hughes intake, seems like it would be cheaper than the Holley stuff. But you lose the self learning aspect, too.
One tricky part of the Magnum SMPI is the tone ring on the flywheel if you stick with a manual. There used to be at least one flywheel option with the required notches, but seems like it was for an LA motor so the balance was wrong. I could have it backwards though. Just something to look into before you go down that road.
Most of us do carbs because we’re old, LOL! It’s what we grew up with, know how to tune and they can be crisp on the throttle. They’re not perfect next to a F.I. system. It’s just a preference and also looks.This group has got the carb ticking through my mind, but the EFI for longevity and long miles still seems more stuck. I’ve heard the same on the heads - too much choice ! Am going to look up Charlie Servedio shortly - thank you for the tip!
Here you go. He details everything he did/used to run a boosted 5.9 (with the BB intake) with a Terminator X.Just my opinion, but I think the OEM EFI and similar can be more reliable than a carb. How many late model 150K+ mile rigs running around that haven't even had injector cleaner run through them? And it is getting to the point where an O'Reilly's or similar is more likely to have the required sensor and not the carb gasket needed to make it home on a long road trip.
The big issue is when you get outside of the OEM setups. At that point tuning becomes an issue and pushes the aftermarket solutions, and some of the aftermarket systems don't have the reliability record that the OEM stuff does.
Just no easy fixes.
One idea might be to run the full Magnum EFI including the intake, but cut the runners down. Engine Masters did a Magnum comparison which included a modified beer barrel intake and a RPM AirGap and the difference was only 30 hp and 10 ft/# (330/412 with the BB intake). This was the same motor as shown in the video in post #16, so it had a reasonable cam in it. Then you could later buy the Hughes intake and get most or all of that back. Just make sure you factor in the cost of the HPTuner software and paying someone to do a tune for you.
Might even be an option to run the Terminator setup on the BB intake since it would self tune. Only question would be if the Terminator box could use the Magnum crank and cam sensors.
There used to be at least one flywheel option with the required notches, but seems like it was for an LA motor so the balance was wrong. I could have it backwards though.
Here you go. He details everything he did/used to run a boosted 5.9 (with the BB intake) with a Terminator X.
Also, I agree with you 100% on the reliability of the factory mpfi on the magnum motors. That’s the big draw (along with cheaper) for me to want to run the factory stuff over aftermarket.
Here you go. He details everything he did/used to run a boosted 5.9 (with the BB intake) with a Terminator X.
Also, I agree with you 100% on the reliability of the factory mpfi on the magnum motors. That’s the big draw (along with cheaper) for me to want to run the factory stuff over aftermarket.
According to Modern Drivelines website, their 360 and 5.9 flywheels have the same 22.67 ounce balancing weight. So theoretically, the magnum flywheel should work on the LA and give you the provisions for the crank sensor.Pretty sure I have this backwards. I was planning to run the Magnum EFI on my LA and was thinking about a different flywheel in case the front mount sensor setup I hacked together didn't work. I think what I ran into was that there was only one manufacturer that made a flywheel with notches for the sensor, but it was balanced for a 5.9 and wouldn't work with my LA motor.
I went round and round with a guy from Modern Driveline about this. They show (showed?) a flywheel part number MD-LBS360LA-130T that the guy swore was right, but I was never really sure. They do show a flywheel for the 5.9 with notches though, so there should be an option for the guy that is running a Magnum.
According to Modern Drivelines website, their 360 and 5.9 flywheels have the same 22.67 ounce balancing weight. So theoretically, the magnum flywheel should work on the LA and give you the provisions for the crank sensor.
Here you go. He details everything he did/used to run a boosted 5.9 (with the BB intake) with a Terminator X.
Also, I agree with you 100% on the reliability of the factory mpfi on the magnum motors. That’s the big draw (along with cheaper) for me to want to run the factory stuff over aftermarket.
I'm pretty sure I fat fingered that! These phones are getting smaller all the time....sorry@milo123 that’s an odd disagree to post 11. Care to explain?
I have factory EFI on a 5.9 in my Dart, and I came here to say what others have said in recent posts.
For a daily driver you should seriously consider the factory Ram / Ram Van EFI. Using the factory EFI you will save of a ton of money over getting a Holley Terminator X, and if you wanted to you could have the OBD2 PCM tuned to support over 500 hp. But the factory tune will easily run a mild RV cam, which is probably want you want for a daily driver. You could even pony up the money for a good intake and you're still miles ahead on cost (the Hughes Magnum intake is the only one you can buy new and it's $750). Or keep the Magnum kegger and save that $750. For a daily driver you don't need all the bells and whistles the Terminator offers anyway.
I know you said you don't have all that stuff from the 5.9 you have, but they made millions of those trucks so you won't have a problem finding the parts in your local boneyard, or check the classifieds and see what people have. For example, this guy from my local classifieds is GIVING AWAY FOR FREE tons of the parts you would need for a 1993 OBD1 setup: 1993 5.2 magnum v8 parts FREE | Engine & Engine Parts | Kingston | Kijiji
You probably don't want OBD1 (but that's why I have and it works great) so check out this guy that's selling everything from the engine fan to the tailshaft from a 1996 (OBD2) truck for $1200 CAD: 1996 Dodge 5.2 V8 drivetrain | Engine & Engine Parts | Stratford | Kijiji
The point is you can find this stuff super easily, and for cheap. You would need to get a full wiring harness, PCM, intake manifold and everything attached to it (injectors, fuel rails, throttle body, all the sensors on the throttle body), the coil & bracket, distributor, and crank sensor... and I think that's about it. I would buy a new O2 sensor.
Looking at the Terminator, which is no doubt a great system, I think you would need something like this one for a manual trans setup:
Holley 550-950 Holley Terminator X MAX Engine Management Systems | Summit Racing
OK, that's $1700 (plus shipping and maybe taxes). Add around $400 for injectors. Plus $200 for some fuel rails. Add the Holley dual sync distributor for $400. What about a throttle body? I googled and can't even figure out what would work, but it looks like these are over $1000 (really???). Let's be conservative and say the parts of your fuel system that you could just get from a 90s Ram will cost you over $3000. Could that even be correct? Seems crazy to me.
You'll need some other stuff with either system (fuel pump, the Tank Inc tank you should definitely get, plus incidentals like hose, fittings, etc) but if you really want EFI I would recommend the factory setup. Other advantages are OEM reliability, the fact that you can get any part for that system at just about any auto parts store across the country, and even new parts are super cheap. And everything you need to know for this swap is in the Ram factory service manual, which you can get for free online.
Lots of people have. Myself included. Did some R&D work for another shop, found that upper 260 cfm is possible with a good valve job and bowl work. Not very difficult. HOWEVER, compared to a stock OEM magnum head, they are slightly worse flow wise until you work on them.Has anybody got any first hand experience with the new castings - negative or positive?
I have factory EFI on a 5.9 in my Dart, and I came here to say what others have said in recent posts.
For a daily driver you should seriously consider the factory Ram / Ram Van EFI. Using the factory EFI you will save of a ton of money over getting a Holley Terminator X, and if you wanted to you could have the OBD2 PCM tuned to support over 500 hp. But the factory tune will easily run a mild RV cam, which is probably want you want for a daily driver. You could even pony up the money for a good intake and you're still miles ahead on cost (the Hughes Magnum intake is the only one you can buy new and it's $750). Or keep the Magnum kegger and save that $750. For a daily driver you don't need all the bells and whistles the Terminator offers anyway.
I know you said you don't have all that stuff from the 5.9 you have, but they made millions of those trucks so you won't have a problem finding the parts in your local boneyard, or check the classifieds and see what people have. For example, this guy from my local classifieds is GIVING AWAY FOR FREE tons of the parts you would need for a 1993 OBD1 setup: 1993 5.2 magnum v8 parts FREE | Engine & Engine Parts | Kingston | Kijiji
You probably don't want OBD1 (but that's why I have and it works great) so check out this guy that's selling everything from the engine fan to the tailshaft from a 1996 (OBD2) truck for $1200 CAD: 1996 Dodge 5.2 V8 drivetrain | Engine & Engine Parts | Stratford | Kijiji
The point is you can find this stuff super easily, and for cheap. You would need to get a full wiring harness, PCM, intake manifold and everything attached to it (injectors, fuel rails, throttle body, all the sensors on the throttle body), the coil & bracket, distributor, and crank sensor... and I think that's about it. I would buy a new O2 sensor.
Looking at the Terminator, which is no doubt a great system, I think you would need something like this one for a manual trans setup:
Holley 550-950 Holley Terminator X MAX Engine Management Systems | Summit Racing
OK, that's $1700 (plus shipping and maybe taxes). Add around $400 for injectors. Plus $200 for some fuel rails. Add the Holley dual sync distributor for $400. What about a throttle body? I googled and can't even figure out what would work, but it looks like these are over $1000 (really???). Let's be conservative and say the parts of your fuel system that you could just get from a 90s Ram will cost you over $3000. Could that even be correct? Seems crazy to me.
You'll need some other stuff with either system (fuel pump, the Tank Inc tank you should definitely get, plus incidentals like hose, fittings, etc) but if you really want EFI I would recommend the factory setup. Other advantages are OEM reliability, the fact that you can get any part for that system at just about any auto parts store across the country, and even new parts are super cheap. And everything you need to know for this swap is in the Ram factory service manual, which you can get for free online.
people keep mentioning using the stock kegger intake, does that fit under the hood?
interesting... i rolled the idea around in my head ages ago, but the height of that bad boy didn't pass the hairy eyeball test for the flat hood of the barracuda. and if i was gonna do it, i didn't want to go carb as that would be just a lateral move from what i currently had.With the low profile Durango air filter tube, I believe it does. But just going off memory.
It easily fit in my 70 Swinger, using a 68/69 unsilenced air filter. Keep in mind those Magnum throttle bodies are not nearly as tall as a carb.people keep mentioning using the stock kegger intake, does that fit under the hood?
I think too many people think an aftermarket EFI is the same as the very reliable, robust, and perfect system we all have in our daily drivers. Their not!This group has got the carb ticking through my mind, but the EFI for longevity and long miles still seems more stuck. I’ve heard the same on the heads - too much choice ! Am going to look up Charlie Servedio shortly - thank you for the tip!