360 Magnum Daily Driver (but fun too!!!)

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Just my opinion, but I think the OEM EFI and similar can be more reliable than a carb. How many late model 150K+ mile rigs running around that haven't even had injector cleaner run through them? And it is getting to the point where an O'Reilly's or similar is more likely to have the required sensor and not the carb gasket needed to make it home on a long road trip.

The big issue is when you get outside of the OEM setups. At that point tuning becomes an issue and pushes the aftermarket solutions, and some of the aftermarket systems don't have the reliability record that the OEM stuff does.

Just no easy fixes.

One idea might be to run the full Magnum EFI including the intake, but cut the runners down. Engine Masters did a Magnum comparison which included a modified beer barrel intake and a RPM AirGap and the difference was only 30 hp and 10 ft/# (330/412 with the BB intake). This was the same motor as shown in the video in post #16, so it had a reasonable cam in it. Then you could later buy the Hughes intake and get most or all of that back. Just make sure you factor in the cost of the HPTuner software and paying someone to do a tune for you.

Might even be an option to run the Terminator setup on the BB intake since it would self tune. Only question would be if the Terminator box could use the Magnum crank and cam sensors.
I’ve not got the factory EFI, would consider it an option. Not far off putting my shopping list together, where this group, as always, has helped enormously - will share in next few days.
 
I think too many people think an aftermarket EFI is the same as the very reliable, robust, and perfect system we all have in our daily drivers. Their not!
All the major auto companies are worth billions of dollars. They spend millions and millions and millions of dollars getting every engine they put out to be the most efficient and reliable it can be.
Now I'm not saying the EFI systems from Holly, Edelbrock ,etc. Aren't good but they definitely aren't as reliable as a carburetor.
Example. My wife and I just spent our vacation driving all over western Canada. Prairies to the foothills and then all through the rockies in my 2012 ram. If something happened to the truck I could hook up my cheap code reader and find out what's going on. Or maybe you have to take it to a mechanic. OK, even most small towns have a dealership, doesn't even have to be the same make. They can find the problem, order the parts and your outta there the next day. It's modern day factory parts!
Now same trip in your old mopar with a aftermarket EFI. Maybe you got the self learning one cool. So after days or weeks of driving this thing is diald in. Now in the middle of nowhere in the mountains say it fucks up. So you get it to a mechanic or dealership and I guarantee they are going too look at it with a confused look on their face or maybe not at all. And you will be paying them to learn!
So after alot of back and forth with the manufacturer you find out what's wrong and they ship the parts which will probably take more than one or two days (hotel cost, loss of vacation days etc.) To arrive. $$$$$$$$
Or put a nice new carb on the thing and drive anywhere!
Learn to tune it. Easier than an EFI IMHO. Have a cheap, good ,used carburetor in the trunk just in case. Four bolts,a couple clips and your running again!
Also I think this fascination with aftermarket EFI "will allow my engine to last longer, because of EFI " is ******* stupid.
If you're on this forum your a car guy. You probably notice every single noise, blurp, miss.etc. so you are going to keep a carb in tune. The old carbed engine's that washed cylinder walls down with ecsess fuel were driven by your great ant,your grandparents, your passed off dad going to work.
They didn't care back then. Doesn't mean that's the way it is with carburetors!
I think throwing darts around that wanting EFI doesn’t make you a car guy is a bit harsh - that’s your opinion. From my side, I’m set on EFI for this project but for future builds that will not necessarily be the case. I drive this car on a 40 mile round trip to work, every day, including cold starts on winters mornings, I really want to try out EFI. I get and appreciate this might not be everybody’s preference but don’t feel this doesn’t make me a car guy. All the advice here is welcome and the vast majority is hugely useful (my shopping list will be posted here soon - for approval/debate LOL) - but it’s clear, in the majority of ways you slice it and dice it on this forum, everybody has many different opinions but I’d hope we’re all car folks, carb or EFI…!…
 
I like the EFI of these engines. Every Magnum I took apart, even well over 100,000 looks great inside. EFI makes driving easy as heck. While I like carbs on my hot rides better, the MoPar EFI is dead dependable. I’d run it and never look back. Even better with an OD trans.

While carbs are favorites of hot rodding, I wouldn’t care what anybody said. It certainly isn’t a defining attribute of being a car guy or hot rodder. Anybody who would run that line, EFI isn’t hot rodding, is just lame.
Very lame.

Driving the hot rod car daily to and from work is awesome. My last long round trip for work was 50 miles one way. EFI would have been appreciated during the winter. Lucky for me, my ‘03 Dakota took over in the New York snow with its 4X4 abilities making snow driving in the afternoon rush hour(s) a much less stressed event.
 
I’ve not got the factory EFI, would consider it an option. Not far off putting my shopping list together, where this group, as always, has helped enormously - will share in next few days.
If you’re on FB, join a group called Magnum EFI Swap Group. There’s a guy on there by the name of Kerry Kinser who sells a fuse/relay box that plugs directly into the 98-01 harness and only requires hooking up 3 wires to your car. Real nice, basically plug and play option.
 
I think throwing darts around that wanting EFI doesn’t make you a car guy is a bit harsh - that’s your opinion. From my side, I’m set on EFI for this project but for future builds that will not necessarily be the case. I drive this car on a 40 mile round trip to work, every day, including cold starts on winters mornings, I really want to try out EFI. I get and appreciate this might not be everybody’s preference but don’t feel this doesn’t make me a car guy. All the advice here is welcome and the vast majority is hugely useful (my shopping list will be posted here soon - for approval/debate LOL) - but it’s clear, in the majority of ways you slice it and dice it on this forum, everybody has many different opinions but I’d hope we’re all car folks, carb or EFI…!…
Sorry, but you misunderstood me. I never said wanting efi on your car doesn't make you a car guy. I said "if your on this forum you are a car guy" Meaning you probably have no problem tuning a carburetor once and awhile. If your like me, working on the car is just as enjoyable as driving it.
I was also getting at the fact that all factory EFI systems are truly amazing and reliable. If you could make one of those work like has been said ( off a 90's ram or van then great!) You would have no reliability issues. In the rare case you did parts are available everywhere.
The problem is the aftermarket systems. Even the "self tuning ones" usually benefit from someone dialing it in with a laptop. And if something happens to it parts will not be available at your local autoparts store.
 
DDG Jamie just posted this on his channel. Great content for anyone looking to do a Magnum EFI swap. I think Jamie is a member here but I can't remember his handle.

 
I can understand the merits of the OEM truck set-up only if you are planning on keeping it stock or nearly stock. I.e. very mild cam, headers. If you ever want to get more wild with the combo though, I'd go aftermarket.

Also in terms of reliability and ease of use, there's plenty of solid options out there. Fitech and Holley both make systems that work just fine and are self tuning.
 
I can understand the merits of the OEM truck set-up only if you are planning on keeping it stock or nearly stock. I.e. very mild cam, headers. If you ever want to get more wild with the combo though, I'd go aftermarket.

Also in terms of reliability and ease of use, there's plenty of solid options out there. Fitech and Holley both make systems that work just fine and are self tuning.

@jbc426 is (was?) over 382 hp and 500 ft/# to the rear tires from a 408 using the Magnum EFI.


Not confirmed, but he might even still be running the kegger intake, too?? Disregard, picture in this link makes me think it is the Hughes intake.

 
 
Neato. I'd still not use the stock stuff. There's no way the keg intake is going to be capable as an air gap or a good single plane.
 
There's no way the keg intake is going to be capable as an air gap or a good single plane.

No argument, the kegger is a huge bottleneck as HP increases. And just to be clear, the Hughes intake is an AirGap.
 
Here's an interesting fix for the flywheel issue for a manual swap. Starts at about 4:08.

 
Neato. I'd still not use the stock stuff. There's no way the keg intake is going to be capable as an air gap or a good single plane.

No argument, the kegger is a huge bottleneck as HP increases. And just to be clear, the Hughes intake is an AirGap.
FB104D91-FD5A-4ACC-8BC2-4AA58E7E5093.jpeg

If you force a bunch of air through them they’re not terrible. And make big time torque.
 
If you’re on FB, join a group called Magnum EFI Swap Group. There’s a guy on there by the name of Kerry Kinser who sells a fuse/relay box that plugs directly into the 98-01 harness and only requires hooking up 3 wires to your car. Real nice, basically plug and play option.
If you pull the PDC out of the doner vehicle, the entire engine harness stays intact (you can eliminate most of the PDC to vehicle wiring) and it’s as easy as hooking up a battery + to the PDC and hooking up an ignition power lead, and a start lead.
 
Thanks. I’m sure you posted elsewhere, but what size are they?
They are TD06 turbos that a friend gave me years ago. First turbo engine I put together. Had to make the headers (never again). The turbos have t4 flanges, water cooled and are 62mm.
 
They are TD06 turbos that a friend gave me years ago. First turbo engine I put together. Had to make the headers (never again). The turbos t4 flanges, water cooled and are 62mm.
Thank you very much!
 
It was in the car for a very short time when the roof skin started leaking and the whole car came apart for rust repair.
2001 5.9, Hughes 230 @050 46RE trans, all run on the stock jtec ecu, tuned with an SCT programmer. If I had to guess I’d say it made 630-650hp around 10psi on gas.
EB02C289-7364-422D-97D0-8625AEE5200B.png
 
Neato. I'd still not use the stock stuff. There's no way the keg intake is going to be capable as an air gap or a good single plane.

I don't think you'd need the stock kegger to run the rest of the factory EFI setup...? Knowing now that the system is tuneable with HPTuners I'm much more inclined to go that route as opposed to aftermarket. I've gained some experience modifying the tune on my blown Buick 3800 V6 and wouldn't be afraid to use HPT for tuning the Mopar system. Before that the only tuning I did was with carbs, I'm not much of a computer guy either.

Shoot now my brain gears are turning, maybe I'll do that to the 360 in my D200 along with a 46RE.
 
It was in the car for a very short time when the roof skin started leaking and the whole car came apart for rust repair.
2001 5.9, Hughes 230 @050 46RE trans, all run on the stock jtec ecu, tuned with an SCT programmer. If I had to guess I’d say it made 630-650hp around 10psi on gas.
View attachment 1716122415
Thanks. If the day ever comes for turbos for me, we will be in touch.
 
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