360 mystery breakdown

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moper said:
That piece of aluminum that hit the other piston was a fragment of the ring land. Rings butted as said. You got a lot of life from it though. Sorry for your loss...
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Just sleeve it and build the 360 back up--forget the 318. J.Rob
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Looks like a gouge, and thanks because I didn't see that pic, just the ring land pic.
Time to roll up the "sleeves" and get to work.
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Oh trust me it's cracked all the way through to the water, just running my finger over it water started seeping through. It's done lol...

@moper that's basically what I'm telling myself now, "hey at least it ran for as long as it did," and it ran pretty damn good too all things considered. Even pulled a 14.8 @ 96 mph at Bandimere, also took me all over the state of Colorado for work and fun.
 
RAMM said:
Just sleeve it and build the 360 back up--forget the 318. J.Rob
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You think so? This 360 block is already .060" over while my 318 is a "virgin", and with boost the extra displacement doesn't make much difference...?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
just seen the last post, you butted rings, bummer. Next time gap them .028-.030

You could just buy a piston and a new set of rings, Gap them right , dingle ball it and go..but that wrist pin should be checked just for ***** n giggles , your quench was .040 something I thought...so it would be the rings and not piston n head contact.[/QUOT

I think it was a little more than incorrect end gap that lifted that land...........if it was incorrect end gap, the OP probably would have known about it about 24,750 miles ago, maybe a lick more.
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I did set the ring gaps plenty wide according to KB instructions, can't remember the exact number but I for sure used the multiplier for a nitrous engine instead of the tighter street/strip spec. I did have the foresight back then that I was pushing the limits with this build. Should have swapped the stupid cam early on though.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
You think so? This 360 block is already .060" over while my 318 is a "virgin", and with boost the extra displacement doesn't make much difference...?
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Sleeving is a possibility, you can get KB 107's .070 over, just hone to fit....PROVIDED....... sonic check of the walls says you've got material to do it with, if you don't.....cut the 360 crank down to fit your Teener block, get a set of custom pistons, then Boost that!!
 
I'd find an other 360 block .010 keep the wall as thick as you can
 
Marcohotrod said:
if U had milkshake on the valve cover, coolant was leaking in for a while. not all blown head gaskets bend a rod. pull the other head and pour some liquid in the ports. check rod bearings. a blown intake gasket or a crack can induce coolant
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Interesting that the pull the plug wire test seemed to show a knock on cylinder 8
 
Marcohotrod said:
Interesting that the pull the plug wire test seemed to show a knock on cylinder 8
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So Marco if I'm so wrong and you disagree and didn't like my 2 cents,
I was given some info and I gave my response, Bottom line is I said it had coolant on top of piston and it did, not a head gasket but cracked cyl wall. If I would have heard the video first I would have said it's not a rod bearing. But bottom line is this, it still had to be torn down and now we know what the problem is, so tell me what came first the cracked cyl wall or the broke piston.
 
JBurch said:
...cut the 360 crank down to fit your Teener block, get a set of custom pistons, then Boost that!!
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Cheap pistons available for that?
I'd rather punch the teener out .060 for a 327. Let it rev baby!
Heck! Sonic check it! Some have been OK'd to 4.0. (332 cid)
 
I'm going to save everything I can, I'll probably even box up the 7 non-broken pistons if they don't have any noticeable damage. It's a tough call to keep the block, if space wasn't at a premium I'd just throw it somewhere but I'd at least like to know if it can be used again first (sonic check), maybe some day I'll get it sleeved. Gonna save the rods and crank too if they check out OK.
 
brian6pac said:
I'd find an other 360 block .010 keep the wall as thick as you can
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This... A friend built a zero decked 360 block (bored .030",decks milled .090"-.100"....) Got it to a true 9 to 1 compression ratio. Ran SEVERAL 25o N20 plate hits on it,the first bore looked like yours.He was gonna save it,( and sleeve it...).He found 2 more bores,waiting to let go.My 2 cents...
 
brian6pac said:
So Marco if I'm so wrong and you disagree and didn't like my 2 cents,
I was given some info and I gave my response, Bottom line is I said it had coolant on top of piston and it did, not a head gasket but cracked cyl wall. If I would have heard the video first I would have said it's not a rod bearing. But bottom line is this, it still had to be torn down and now we know what the problem is, so tell me what came first the cracked cyl wall or the broke piston.
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The rings butted , popped the top of the piston off, then that chunk got between the head and piston which cocked the piston hard enough to crack the cylinder. I've done it to myself in this exact build. OP ran his engine under high load for too long-end of story. You can gap the rings @ .100" and they will still close up under extreme conditions--Lol. Still love KB hypers though. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
you can gap the rings @ .100" and they will still close up under extreme conditions--Lol. Still love KB hypers though. J.Rob
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Yup. I like them too. Given this ones at +.060 and boost is coming I'd go with another block and keep it at +.030 at most following a sonic test.
 
I've bought 3 5.9 Magnums for projects, 2 runners complete with harness and computer for 450$ each and a short block for 100.00 all 3 checked out fine at the machine shop, 2 are going in my boat at 408 Cu In and one in my wrangler with stock stroke. Hit up craigslist and find a core, machine the block and re use what parts you can from your existing motor...
 
murfman said:
I've bought 3 5.9 Magnums for projects, 2 runners complete with harness and computer for 450$ each and a short block for 100.00 all 3 checked out fine at the machine shop, 2 are going in my boat at 408 Cu In and one in my wrangler with stock stroke. Hit up craigslist and find a core, machine the block and re use what parts you can from your existing motor...
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Shoot ahh man too many options! Lol... roller cam and factory EFI setup are very attractive though, and I probably could just leave the short block alone I hear they're usually in great shape. I would save a lot of money not needing to have my block machined... thanks for reminding me of that!
 
My '00, 5.9 was excellent inside with visable cross hatch marks from day one machining. The factory F.I. seems to be excellent.

I left the long block alone and just added bolt on's. No cam yet. Feels and runs nice and strong with the carb.

Unless there a personal need for a stroker, the 5.9 is very good. IMO, stock short block with bolt on parts and a cam, your done.
 
Just start over with a known a known, non rebuilt engine and give it to a good machinist/engine builder. You will never save money by trying to save money....
 
Dude magnum. Cheap easy, under $300 with a warranty lol:)
I swapped my la a few months ago when it took a poop. Love the magnum, ive got a second on the stsnd all reringed and bearing'd up ready to go. Got less $ in it than a set of good la rollers.
 
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skizzo said:
Dude magnum. Cheap easy, under $300 with a warranty lol:)
I swapped my la a few months ago when it took a poop. Love the magnum, ive got a second on the stsnd all reringed and bearing'd up ready to go. Got less $ in it than a set of good la rollers.
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I think I agree at this point, browsed the Denver CL last night and found a running 5.2 Mag with only 114k for $300... just need to swap the pistons to forged for boost, get the block square-decked and maybe a quick hone and install these ARP rod bolts and it should be able to last a while on 10-12 lbs of boost (right? Lol)

Edit: I already have ARP head bolts from my blown up 360, you guys think studs would still be necessary with the boost?
 
Bolts for boost? Rather than what? Garbage bolts? Your not making sense. Use good parts wgere ever possible or thw wallet lows. Boost or not.
 
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