DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Hmmmm--------subscribed-------
360 no power on acceleration
- Thread starter barog
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nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Apples & oranges..... I possibly agree on what CB said... but the compression readings say that it is not really terribly necessary.
What I am saying is that, IF the cam was machined wrong, or the dot was put on the wrong spot on the cam sprocket, and IF, as a result, the cam timing was waaaaay advanced, then that could cause high compression readings..... and that waaaay advanced cam timing which would be causing some issues. The reality is that, until you directly check the cam timing with a degree wheel and the standard procedures, you don't know 100%. It may not be a very high probability that this is the case, but you just don't know for sure 'til you check it. I'd hate to see you put it back together, and then go back in again.
When you say the damper mark was aligned at 0, did you actually verify that the #1 piston was at TDC with a piston stop? Or was it that way with the dot's aligned?
Bottom line.... you don't know for sure about any of these parameters unless you directly check with the correct tools. Just trying to not leave 'any stone unturned'.
Nothing else so far is jumping out for me at least... except for that idea of a plugged exhaust system. You have fuel pressure, and it runs evenly right? Does not sounds like a spark energy issue.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Thanks iv learned a thing or two from you guys. ;)
340dartley
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First thing I would look at before I do too many changes on the motor is verify your kick down linkage is installed and adjusted correctly. If it is not hooked up correctly or at all, you will start off in 1st but quickly shift through 2nd and 3rd. 3rd gear at 15 20 mph is will feel like a dog. Plus if it is not adjusted correctly, the trans will be burned up in no time especially with spirited driving.
Verify that and then we can get back on the engine.
Verify that and then we can get back on the engine.
j par
Well-Known Member
I wish I would have thought of that LOL
Electric fuel pump! Run a manual and see if it works! Or run pressure gauge in car to see if it holds or keeps up during acceleration! Didn’t read all the post to see if this was said but from experience it’s always the stupid electric pumps
Get the distributor right FIRST. It may cure a lot of your ills.
I would not mess with the cam timing unless you are able to degree the cam, see where it's currently installed and make an educated decision of where it should be installed.
There is no SIMPLE fix here that twisting a single bolt is going to fix.
I would not mess with the cam timing unless you are able to degree the cam, see where it's currently installed and make an educated decision of where it should be installed.
There is no SIMPLE fix here that twisting a single bolt is going to fix.
barog
Active Member
I will verify this again
barog
Active Member
I bought a new mechanical
barog
Active Member
I will look into how to do it on this distributor.
Going to have to put my engine back together first.
And new filter ? A glass one so you can see if it’s getting clogged! If your tank is dirty you could be clogging fuel filter immediately every time! Get a glass one that you can see and take apart to clean
greymouser7
Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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In addition to the problems you are experiencing, some mechanical fuel pumps do not measure up after 2000RPM's or so. (Especially autoparts stores' fuel pumps. Thank you Crackedback for the second referral to the distributor)
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yes, but if the fuel pump was laying down on the job, and starving the carb of fuel, I would expect it to sputter and stumble, not just go slow.
Well you got ripped off when you bought the car it didn’t come with a gas pedal!
i guess it would matter how much it’s laying down on job. Could be just taking a little nap and still allowing enough fuel ! What about a block or clogged vent line ? Sorry I feel like it’s something stupid as it usually is!
n.y.340 dart
Well-Known Member
Is it possible that the converter is junk, I seen this happen before.
barog
Active Member
I have changed the filters and they are the transparent kind, I haven't seen any debris in them yet.
Currently I have a Holley blue with inline reg and a pressure gauge, I want to switch to the mechanical because I don't like the noise.
I may wait until I have it running better to swap it
New trans and converter I just installed, both transmissions acted the same.
Although many things could be wrong, timing seems to make the most sense.
I have had the car go pretty good with timing over advanced, but the engine knocked. (it had enough power to spin the tire from a stop)(only one
)When I have the timing turned back where it does not knock I loose all the power.
I think this part is a separate issue.
Initially I did not have the old transmission with the throttle connection, but when I put in the new trans I wanted everything right.
Someone posted this video and I followed it:
Even though I followed the directions in the video, the car really got weird after I did it so pulled it back in to the garage. (someone will ask so: weird like the trans was going in and out of the gears wrong) So, I must have done something wrong.
j par
Well-Known Member
I have changed the filters and they are the transparent kind, I haven't seen any debris in them yet.
Currently I have a Holley blue with inline reg and a pressure gauge, I want to switch to the mechanical because I don't like the noise.
I may wait until I have it running better to swap it
New trans and converter I just installed, both transmissions acted the same.
Although many things could be wrong, timing seems to make the most sense.
I have had the car go pretty good with timing over advanced, but the engine knocked. (it had enough power to spin the tire from a stop)(only one
When I have the timing turned back where it does not knock I loose all the power.
I think this part is a separate issue.
Initially I did not have the old transmission with the throttle connection, but when I put in the new trans I wanted everything right.
Someone posted this video and I followed it:
Even though I followed the directions in the video, the car really got weird after I did it so pulled it back in to the garage. (someone will ask so: weird like the trans was going in and out of the gears wrong) So, I must have done something wrong.
yeah spirited driving and trying to burn the tires without the kickdown linkage connected correctly? Yipes! Poof go's the tranny....
Sincerely hope not. That said definitely something to be looking for.
and I'm not watching that 18 minute plus video but I assume it shows you how to hook it up correctly.
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340dartley
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Make sure you have the correct linkage parts. I had a Dart with a 340 in it once and I kept burning up transmissions. The rod from the turbuckle to the throttle lever on the trans was not long enough and it would bind on the turnbuckle. I would push the linkage all the way back on the carburetor and I thought this was max throttle pressure. It wasn’t it would shift early so I would manually shift it and burn up a trans after 1 evening of drag racing. Also make sure you shift linkage is adjusted properly. This will cause it to feel like it is jumping in and out of gear.
barog
Active Member
I have all the factory parts from the 318 that was in here.
I had to extend the linkage at the carburetor for the different intake manifold and carb, maybe that messed up the throw.
Was think about getting one of the Lokar cable types to make things easier. Just not sure how well they work.
j par
Well-Known Member
I've heard nothing but good things from the Lokar brand cables from the people who can afford them. I personally did like you did and just got the stock linkage to work correctly. I did have to extend the arm coming out further to the aftermarket carburetor.
j par
Well-Known Member
Get it running and operating and you should be able to go through the shifting and it should shift correctly.
let me get this straight one more time?
The car revs and runs great in the driveway and then you get it out on the road and give it the gas and for some reason it feels like the biggest turd you've ever driven?
let me get this straight one more time?
The car revs and runs great in the driveway and then you get it out on the road and give it the gas and for some reason it feels like the biggest turd you've ever driven?
barog
Active Member
Yes, that's about it.
j par
Well-Known Member
If that things just going zip bing bang first second third and it's done it a few times it just burns the clutches quickly. The pressure holds the clutches together. No pressure is like riding your clutch.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
I used Lokar throttle and kickdown equipment on my 67 273/904 combo and it has performed flawlessly. I installed mine at the suggestion of my transmission builder.
j par
Well-Known Member
I would be suspicious of any transmission Builder that didn't give their customer an extreme warning about that kickdown linkage if it were definitely the Mopar 904 or 727.
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