Ok gang, work your magic. Got a 72 Ply Val that we swapped the 318 for a 360. Been a on going project for about 6 years. I am a big block guy, but have been working on this for a family member. Had a few leaks and what not on the first start up, but nothing that stopped the brake in process. Felt good about the motor and started putting on the TTi's. Got them on and the 3" system. Time to hear what she sound like. Car will not start. The electrical system is a mess. Burnt bulkhead connector. But have delt with this before. We are going to rewire it. I have a spark, but its a orange spark Not a nice hard blue spark. It has been converted to electronic (Mopar Kit) First question is. Why is there a Condenser on the coil. Have not seen this one before. Took it off and the spark went away. put it back on, and the week spark comes back. Next, Is it possible to run one of the ECU wires direct to 12v power to run this thing and see where the problem might be. Or bypass the ballast resister to start it. It will not even turn over by the key, I have to put a remote button on the starter relay to turn it over. Thanks for the help. Feels good to get back in the shop.
360 not starting "Now"
- Thread starter hwp
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
NORMALLY a condenser on the coil would be hooked to the POSITIVE side of the coil, and (factory) was meant for radio noise suppression.
HOWEVER if that one happens to be on the neg. side, and if removing it kills the spark, then the ECU may be bad. (They have a condenser inside the box, which performs the same job as the old ones did inside the distributor with points)
"Jumper" wiring the ECU? Of course. First, you need to be sure that the harness for the ECU/ distributor is OK, and check the reluctor gap in the distributor. Is the ECU 5 pin? (4 wire ballast?) or 4 pin? (2 wire ballast?) or is it a 4 pin box someone upgraded, and left the old 4 terminal ballast resistor?
The simple answer is, to jumper the ignition to 12V put the key in "run" pull off the resistor connectors, and probe the harness connectors until you find battery voltage. There should only be one of the two or four wires that is "hot."
THIS hot wire is the terminal that you want to "jumper" a good hot 12V to from the battery.
Use Google or post back. LOTS of wiring diagrams for the Mopar ECU about
HOWEVER if that one happens to be on the neg. side, and if removing it kills the spark, then the ECU may be bad. (They have a condenser inside the box, which performs the same job as the old ones did inside the distributor with points)
"Jumper" wiring the ECU? Of course. First, you need to be sure that the harness for the ECU/ distributor is OK, and check the reluctor gap in the distributor. Is the ECU 5 pin? (4 wire ballast?) or 4 pin? (2 wire ballast?) or is it a 4 pin box someone upgraded, and left the old 4 terminal ballast resistor?
The simple answer is, to jumper the ignition to 12V put the key in "run" pull off the resistor connectors, and probe the harness connectors until you find battery voltage. There should only be one of the two or four wires that is "hot."
THIS hot wire is the terminal that you want to "jumper" a good hot 12V to from the battery.
Use Google or post back. LOTS of wiring diagrams for the Mopar ECU about
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Try running a ground wire to the relay for the SNS,it worked for me
Its a 4 wire ecu. It was a kit added by another person. what is weird, is when I started it for the first time, like I said it ran fine, then after that, it would not run. It would start and shut off (bad BR) found I had forgotten to put the condenser under the bolt, and saw sparks. Replaced BR and put it under the mounting bolt, It worked fine. I will try swapping the ECU and removing the condenser and see what changes.
Changed ECU and the beast started. ran for a while and shut off. Took the old ECU and cleaned the base and paint from mounting point. Car started and ran well. so now wiring replace and we are on the road. thanks for the help. advice is always looked into.
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