#7 with 12.1 compression , #8 with 9.1 , both have heads with 260 flow and #7 with 10 less hp ? Maybe it's running 89 octane with the timing retarded ?
360 Small Block - Very Streetable / Occasional Strip Engine Recipes
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OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Jerry, Pkg #2 looks alot closer to #8 as far as components. But look at those numbers/results.
I just want "hotrod" to really evaluate his choices and not just pick something based solely off those posted hp&tq numbers.
Nope not at all.
Take the numbers in those builds with a grain of salt. Just like a magazine engine, N/A XE268H cammed stock compression/head 340 making 392hp... UMMMMM... not a fricken chance. 330-340ish if you are lucky! I believe most if not all those tests were done on what was known around here as the infamous "+15% dyno". And yes, I have first hand experience with that dyno before they came clean and only partially with the it was 5% high, LMAO. One engine made 400-405 there, 350ish elsewhere. Ran like a 350 horse engine at the track...
The 284/484 making 400ish, I can believe that. That build is VERY similar to the one in my Swinger, except I have a 528 mechanical. No way would that car be capable of clicking off 118+ in the 1/4.
Right pkg 2 looks to be about what you would expect , reasonable hp and tq for what was done . Pkg 8 , there must be some info missing , close to 100 more hp with nothing much more than pkg 2 ?
I like pkg 3 not unreasonable numbers and won't break the bank $$ wise , pkg 2 is also good , not expensive and you won't be upset with unmet expectations .
Yeah , I think a lot of those magazines use the +15% dyno . Must be a lot of people out there scratching their heads wondering why their 460 hp 318 or 360 is being beaten by 350 hp competition . Then again , it's the complete package that counts , gears , trans , suspension and driver .
Anyhow OP listen to the guys here , not magazines , you'll be better off .
Watch Pass Time and you'll see that there are plenty of engines that are claimed to be one HP and run like another (usually MUCH lower)
It's got 700 hp in a 3000# car and it runs 120mph... Yep that's about right, if the earths gravitational pull momentarily increased by a factor of 1.5 for your run!
It's got 700 hp in a 3000# car and it runs 120mph... Yep that's about right, if the earths gravitational pull momentarily increased by a factor of 1.5 for your run!
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
I do agree with you guys, I don't see those combos making 400 horses, no way. I know the Mopar motors seem to be quite a bit tougher, but I dang sure know you wouldn't get near those numbers doing the same to a similar displacement Chevy or Ford motor. I would love to see how they run on a true Dyno.
To be honest, just from building Chevy & Ford motors in the past, I'm thinking with this one, going with ported/polished 2.02/1.60 J heads, 9.5:1 compression - haven't decided on brand/style pistons yet, the .474/.474 lift or ,484/.484 lift cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap Intake, 750 CFM carb, along with a lot of other solid, tough parts to ensure the motor stays together. Will have it balanced & blueprinted at a local to fairly local shop, etc. I'll bee happy to see between 300 to 400 horses with this one.
Feel free to comment further.
I will be honest, I am a still a bit ignorant on Mopar motors, just haven't had the opportunity to spend time with anyone else who is/was into Mopars. The area I live in is predominately Chevy & Ford guys. LOL, they were beside themselves when I told them I wanted to build a Mopar for my next hot rod. It's funny though, since I have been into Jeeps for 9 years. They're Mopars too. They just figured I'd build another Chevy I guess.
All areas are Chevy & Ford , we are the minority .
I know they are not popular , but look into Mahle pistons . I have to coated 10.5 pistons in my 340 , and the shop that put my car together were very impressed with the pistons . So far 10,000 miles on the car and no problems yet . Good luck with your build , show them Ford & Chevy guys what's what .
I know they are not popular , but look into Mahle pistons . I have to coated 10.5 pistons in my 340 , and the shop that put my car together were very impressed with the pistons . So far 10,000 miles on the car and no problems yet . Good luck with your build , show them Ford & Chevy guys what's what .
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I think that Package #8 actully fits very well with what your looking for. As long as you get 9-9.5 to 1, however you decide to get there either pistons or milling, i agree with crackedback 400ish hp is very possible. I like it.
Earlier i just wanted to alert you that if you were looking at that 460 number this pkg wasn't gonna get you there.
Earlier i just wanted to alert you that if you were looking at that 460 number this pkg wasn't gonna get you there.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
Thanks, & will do. I appreciate the piston reference & will definitely look into them.
Oh, it is much appreciated, & yea, I figured that setup would probably be good for about 350 - 400 horses. I think the number they got were from the Barstool Dyno.
A cam to take a good look at is the Lunati 60403 voodoo. Be a good stick for little rumble and plenty of bite!
You'll also find you generally don't have to turn a lot of RPM with mopars to make good power.
Pick an HP goal and build to it. If you don't care about what the HP is, just want sound, find a cam that has ~225 duration at .050 cut on a 106 centerline.
You'll also find you generally don't have to turn a lot of RPM with mopars to make good power.
Pick an HP goal and build to it. If you don't care about what the HP is, just want sound, find a cam that has ~225 duration at .050 cut on a 106 centerline.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
Thanks guys, now, though I have another thread asking the same question, with the setup I want to go with, would a late 80's to early 90's roller block still work, or do I need to get an earlier block to go with the cams we have been talking about?
So far,all flat tappet.The hydraulic roller blocks are good ,in different ways.A hydraulic roller offers more ramp speed and lift everywhere,over a flat tappet. A new rollercam,runs between 300 to 450 cashwise.You can re-use stock lifters.The thing to avoid(unless you have a ton of coin),the retrofit stuff.You can run shaft style heads,on a 87 to 91 roller block.The roller has no break in issues,fire it up and go.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
Thanks Bomber, that's good to hear, & I don't mind spending a little more on a cam. Should I still plan to use the "J" style heads with the roller block?
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
Also, I would like to add that I currently do not have any "J" heads, if I cannot come across some, what would you guys recommend for your second & third choice as far as heads?
J's,X,s ,or Edelbrocks.The reason I listed those years blocks,was to use LA heads.How hands are you? Check out the head porting thread ,in the small block section.A must see,even just to know what you are dealing with.Good info there.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
Oh I'm very hands on, will be doing all the work myself except for machine work & internal trans work. Gonna let custom shops do that. I'll check it out, thanks for the reference.
You are welcome.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
I'm going to share the link to that thread in here in case anyone uses this thread for reference for their build. Great read, but if it's not the one you're referring to Bomber, let me know.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=167865&highlight=head+porting
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=167865&highlight=head+porting
Dead on,Justin does good work.Not many like him,knows his stuff on stock heads,better than a few "big name" wannabes.
Hot Rod 63 Valiant
Hot Rodder
I completely agree, & was VERY impressed when I read the thread. Definitely gave me a better idea of what to look for when I go looking for the 360 I will use for this build, along with heads for it.
Go get it!By the way,the best "x" heads floe like .461 203/160 castings,circa 64 vette castings.(216 at .500@28" on a flowbench.
Woods74
Enlightened Senior
This is getting carried away, how about keeping it simple with a 5.9 magnum junkyard motor, mild re-grind cam, and a high rise intake?
Frugal, powerful and done.
Frugal, powerful and done.
This is my street/strip car....and yes, it is very street-able and driven on the street often.
360 block, 4 inch steel crank, Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, ported Edelbrocks,
10.8:1 compression, 93 octane pump gas,small solid roller (248/254 duration), 750dp, Victor intake,
727, 4.10 gear, 28" tire. Runs 6.9's in the 1/8 mile on hot summer days (high 10's in the 1/4 mile).
This same combo without the 4 inch crank would probably be close to the same hp, but lacking in torque.
360 block, 4 inch steel crank, Scat I-beams, Diamond pistons, ported Edelbrocks,
10.8:1 compression, 93 octane pump gas,small solid roller (248/254 duration), 750dp, Victor intake,
727, 4.10 gear, 28" tire. Runs 6.9's in the 1/8 mile on hot summer days (high 10's in the 1/4 mile).
This same combo without the 4 inch crank would probably be close to the same hp, but lacking in torque.
I run a solid cam of 248* in a 360 zero deck with KB slugs and OOTB Edelbrock heads, A-G intake and 750 back by a 4spd and 4.10's. No time slip yet, but streetable it is and easy it was to build drive and romp around in.
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