360 smogger or not??

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pettybludart

pettybludart

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Hi,I just bought a rebuilt 360casting #4006830-360-7 with .30 over pistons,.10 over crank.I was told this motor was out of a 77 Cordoba.I looked for #,s on the heads and only found a 15 by the plug hole.Is this a smogger motor,what compression?What type of heads?ports,valves?I,m new to the 360,s so excuse my knowledge on them!Thanks for any help!Oh yeah,it has a mild cam also.
 
casting number on heads will be under valve cover...

smog motor...all 360s are smog motors...LOL,,,,

compression probably down around 8.5 to 1...

but with a good cam...good intake ..and carb...along with headers and electronic ignition....

a 360 becomes ahell of a performer
 
Thanks AARCuda,I have a spare Torker 2 intake,800cfm thermoquad,elec. ign. and am also putting headers.Do you think this will move the light 66 Dart?
 
The Torker II is a high rpm intake not well suited for an engine with a stock cam. To tell you the truth I wouldn't run it unless I had a 4000 stall converter and a heck of a big cam, lots of compression and ported heads. My Cuda had one on it when I got it and I switched to an Air-gap and the power diff. was like night and day.

It'll move your Dart but a stock intake will probably work better due to the small stock cam and low compression.
 
fishy68 said:
The Torker II is a high rpm intake not well suited for an engine with a stock cam. To tell you the truth I wouldn't run it unless I had a 4000 stall converter and a heck of a big cam, lots of compression and ported heads. My Cuda had one on it when I got it and I switched to an Air-gap and the power diff. was like night and day.

It'll move your Dart but a stock intake will probably work better due to the small stock cam and low compression.
Click to expand...
It has a stock 4bbl. intake,and also a Crane hyd. cam. but just a mild one.I have an RPM air-gap on my other car.I,m just gonna get it running for now,next winter it will be coming out to get stroked and some Eddy heads.I mostly building to be my race car,so I don,t have to beat up my other car.As long as I,m working with no more layoffs?I,m just trying with parts I have layin around in my garage.
 
pettybludart said:
It has a stock 4bbl. intake,and also a Comp cam. but just a mild one.I have an RPM air-gap on my other car.I,m just gonna get it running for now,next winter it will be coming out to get stroked and some Eddy heads.I mostly building to be my race car,so I don,t have to beat up my other car.As long as I,m working with no more layoffs?I,m just trying with parts I have layin around in my garage.
Click to expand...

I understand how money is nowadays but I personally wouldn't use a Torker 2 intake at all. I guarantee you'll loose all your low end torque if you take off the stock intake and put it on. What you gain up high, which won't be much, won't be nearly as much as you'll loose down low. To be honest after the experience I've had with them (tried them on 2 totally different cars) and seeing several dyno reports that showed them at the bottom of the list I wouldn't give $20 for a new in the box one cause their not worth that much in scrap aluminum. JMHO
 
I'm with Fishy on this! Use the stock T-Q intake and put a spacer under it. Modify one out of aluminum if ya can.

Moparmuscle did a smog motor build with basic bolt on's and a cam. The cam was small and super streetable. It made some crack pounded torque and reasonable HP.

You should look for it. I know I can find it if need be.
 
MoPar makes inexp[ensive stall converters, but wait until you know exactly what cam you have and what the dart weighs.

OH, that smog motor could use a head milling, but not alot. Even at 9.0-1, you can still make some good power.
 
Good idea on the intake spacer and milling the heads.

As far as converter like Rumble said you really need to know what cam you have and match the converter to it and the weight of your car and gears and tire size. All makes a diff. I can say thought that if the cam idles smooth you won't need a very high stall. As far as what to do with the 904 if it works fine I'd just add a Trans-go TF-2 kit to it. That'll make it shift nice and firm. The 904 is a pretty tough little bugger when in good shape and having a TF-2 kit.
 
rumblefish360 said:
MoPar makes inexp[ensive stall converters, but wait until you know exactly what cam you have and what the dart weighs.

OH, that smog motor could use a head milling, but not alot. Even at 9.0-1, you can still make some good power.
Click to expand...
The guy I bought this motor off of told me it,s a crane cam(hyd.)and mentioned it was the biggest you could go with the single springs.He has the box with card,but just moved his shop to a new shop(stuff everywhere)so when he finds it he,ll call.I recall him mentioning 268??
 
search ebay for turbo action 904 converter...

nice one for 250 dollars...
 
Crane doesn't make a 268 duration cam. (Mild Hyd. cam that is.)
Perhaps, a Comp cam. Reguardless, if you can find the cams spec card, you'd be in good shape then. If not, theres a slight problem. Since he mentioned, "Biggest you can go with the stock converter", an upgraded converter would only be something like a 2000 stall for a street ride. Going more agressive would require a numerically higher gear ratio and lighter car weight.

OH, I went into my old mag articles and found the "Smog Dog Dyno Flog" write up. The low compresion 360 used regular sized tube headers, a cComp Cams XE262 (218/224-.462/.470-110 ) as the power parts. The Performer intake didn't net them much at all and a switch to a Edel. Q-jet netted a loss.

Base line power pulls were done with exhaust manifolds on this .040 replacement slug 360 to a tune of 262 HP and 371 lbs. Tq.
After swaping parts, it pulled 335 hp & 400 lbs. of torque.
This should be a fairly fun ride in a A body car with a reasonable set of gears and converter that should run into the 13's.

70aarcuda is right,
a 360 becomes ahell of a performer
Click to expand...
A 73 HP and 30 ft lbs. increase in power. Not bad for a cam and headers.
The cam they used, the mag, you could go one larger with the stock converter.

Whats your gear ratio?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Crane doesn't make a 268 duration cam. (Mild Hyd. cam that is.)
Perhaps, a Comp cam. Reguardless, if you can find the cams spec card, you'd be in good shape then. If not, theres a slight problem. Since he mentioned, "Biggest you can go with the stock converter", an upgraded converter would only be something like a 2000 stall for a street ride. Going more agressive would require a numerically higher gear ratio and lighter car weight.

OH, I went into my old mag articles and found the "Smog Dog Dyno Flog" write up. The low compresion 360 used regular sized tube headers, a cComp Cams XE262 (218/224-.462/.470-110 ) as the power parts. The Performer intake didn't net them much at all and a switch to a Edel. Q-jet netted a loss.

Base line power pulls were done with exhaust manifolds on this .040 replacement slug 360 to a tune of 262 HP and 371 lbs. Tq.
After swaping parts, it pulled 335 hp & 400 lbs. of torque.
This should be a fairly fun ride in a A body car with a reasonable set of gears and converter that should run into the 13's.

70aarcuda is right,
A 73 HP and 30 ft lbs. increase in power. Not bad for a cam and headers.
The cam they used, the mag, you could go one larger with the stock converter.

Whats your gear ratio?
Click to expand...
Rumble thanks for the good info. One thing you misread:He said it was the biggest cam you could go with the stock(single)valve springs.No biggie.I have all kinds of gears to try 2.76,3.23,3.91,4.10and also 4.57.I,m just gonna play around this summer.$$Money and work is a big factor here.Hoping next year to run in the low 10,s.For now which gear and t.convertor do you suggest for just some fun track time?
 
Theres alot of unknowns here, so, since I figure it's just for fun.........

3.91's and a 2500 stall. But the stall is cam dependent. I could be crazy low.
See if you run out of RPM at the big end. If you don't, then a swap to 4.10, etc, etc, etc......
 
Hey guys,got the cam specs.It,s a Crane cam part#150062 grind#284H it has a 480 lift/284 duration.I,m gonna get a Trans-go TF-2 kit installed,the tranny(904) is a fresh rebuild.Am I gonna need the 2500 stall on top of the kit or will I just be wasteing money?Any advise before purchasing would be great.Thanks
 
The 2500 stall converter would be the ticket for that combo with your 3:91 gears for the street, and you could go lower to your 4:56 for the strip. As mentioned, for a starter converter, without breaking the bank, either the mentioned Turbo Action or the MP 175K should do the trick. You'll need to either weld balancing weights to the converter, or use the B & M flex plate to any converter you use behind that 360 - unless you have a pre-balanced 360 converter of course.
 
rumblefish360 said:
This one;
http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePa...=318 C.I.&partNumber=150062&partType=camshaft

With the stock compresion, your likely to make about 300 HP at best. That is whats hurting now. Bumping up to a 9.5-1` would get you around 320 - 330 HP.

I don't know how far you need to mill the heads for this.
Click to expand...
Pistons are .30 over and crank has been done .10 over.Can,t I use the stock flex plate?If I buy the 2500 stall do I have to add weights?I,d better go see my tranny buddy for some more info. before spending and install.Thanks guys!
 
Stock flex plate reuse is fine if the converter is the same balance as the one you took/take out. Same for the weights.
You can get the converter allready balanced for a 360 or use the B&M flex plate for neutral balanced converters.
Pistons at .030 and the same compresion height will add a little (And very little) more to the ratio. If te piston height has changed, gone up in height, then ratio's can change dramaticly. This is the key and why theres a need to measure the pistons depth. (And valve reliefs if any)
 
doing the same on 65 barracuda all track for now! ill be firing it up soon! ill send up date maybe save you some troubles!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Stock flex plate reuse is fine if the converter is the same balance as the one you took/take out. Same for the weights.
You can get the converter allready balanced for a 360 or use the B&M flex plate for neutral balanced converters.
Pistons at .030 and the same compresion height will add a little (And very little) more to the ratio. If te piston height has changed, gone up in height, then ratio's can change dramaticly. This is the key and why theres a need to measure the pistons depth. (And valve reliefs if any)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help Rumble!I didn,t get a flex plate with this purchase,but I have a 73 318 with a 904 tranny.Can I use the 318 flexplate?What,s a good brand of high stall (2500).I don,t want to use TCI from hearing stories.Matbe I,ll just go with the shift kit for now,I just went back to work this week after only working 3 weeks since Dec.If the stall will work with the 318 flexplate and isn,t to expensive,I,ll go that root.Thanks.
 
Again;

If you have a 360 LA engine, they are external balanced engines.

If you have any other LA small block, there internal balanced engines.

IF you want to use a internal balanced engines torque converter on a external balnced engine, you need to do 1 of 2 things.

Get the weights to rebalance the converter for external balance use

OR

get the B&M (Or other maker) flexplate for this swap.
 
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