I wasn't even aware they made that. I think they probably finally realized that cam was just too big for a hydraulic. I mean really. lol
360 with the 509 cam
- Thread starter voodoo1
- Start date
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daredevil
Well-Known Member
ran that cam in a 360. It doesnt clean up till 3k but hauls the mail after that. Got some 7.20 1/8 mile slips after I added some domed pistons.Was running low 8,s with the stock pistons.
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
I can only hope.
Ok guys I just looked at all the specs, it was in storage. Its the original never use MP Cam/kit # 4120233. 292,72, .509, 108 center. If this helps, or not.
Mike
1970 La
Well-Known Member
i had a .060 360 9-1 compression had a 305 525 comp magnum. ran pump gas in a 3400 lb duster 4 speed trans 4.30 gear 28"x9" et streets. 1.72 60'. 7.90 @ 86mph. ran the .509 mopar cam with 10-1 compression .040 360 with the same heads intake car and transmission 106 octane ran 8.10 @ 86mph 1.74 60'. comp cam was straight up. mopar cam was 2 deg advanced. both were shifted @ 5800 - 6000 rpm. never tried the comp with more compression often wonder what it would have ran.
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
That's cool. I'm a little worried about my compression being as low as it is.
pishta
I know I'm right....
340 8BBL
Well-Known Member
it will have mushy low end unless you advance it and have some gear(and converter if you got an automatic) .ive got more sb grinds than i can ever use if your interested in something different.
Southernman
Well-Known Member
X3
As someone posted earlier, Dave Hughes (a former Chrysler Engineer) has spent the last 2 decades designing and optimizing cams that run hard with low compression.
If you call him with your application, I doubt there's anybody out there whose more qualified or dedicated to the Mopar brand. His stuff is top notch, but in order to preserve warranty, he does require you purchase his other parts for compatibility. Comp's got some good low compression cams as well.
On a new cam, the best way to break one in is by using just a single outer spring. Use lotsa break in lube, prime the engine good, and get the rpms up quick to ~2000 for 10-15 minutes; shut it down and change the oil and filter. Then, drive it for about 100 miles, keeping the rpms under ~3500.
After that, put the inner springs on and drive it like you stole it.
If you insist on using the MP piece you have, then at least change head gaskets from the thick composition that's on it now, and get a pair of the .017 steel head gaskets to bump your compression up some. Even that won't get you optimal cylinder pressure, but it will perform better.
Southernman
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
How much compression would you get back using those .017 head gaskets?
Thank you guys for the continued info!
pishta
I know I'm right....
Me too. If 340-8 doesnt have your grind of choice, I got a Crane Powermax H-278-2 (old HMV-278-2-NC part number) trade you straight across, keep your new lifters.
Southernman
Well-Known Member
Well, assuming you are currently at 8.3-8.5, I'd bet the gasket you're using is at least .055 to .065 thick.
You might be able to pick it up to 9.5, which will get you in the ball park. However, do remember what the others have posted here. The "508" MP cams (509 in the big blocks) like compression, and if you really want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend at least 11-1 with aluminum heads and not less than 10-1 with steel heads. Lack of good cylinder pressure, combined with the long duration of that cam, may make it soft on the bottom.
If you're gonna race it, shoot for the maximum power under low compression - otherwise, you'll be very disappointed (embarassed?) if you take it to the track and the fart pipe boys put ya' on the trailer (God forbid !)
Again, run what you want, but if it were me, and I was stuck with the lower compression, I'd go for one of the Whiplash cams from Dave Hughes.
If it's a big thumpin' sound you're after, Comp sells their "Big Mutha Thumper" series designed for low compression, but pounds out some radical tunes at idle.
Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope it runs great for you and do keep us posted !
Southernman
You might be able to pick it up to 9.5, which will get you in the ball park. However, do remember what the others have posted here. The "508" MP cams (509 in the big blocks) like compression, and if you really want to get the most out of it, I'd recommend at least 11-1 with aluminum heads and not less than 10-1 with steel heads. Lack of good cylinder pressure, combined with the long duration of that cam, may make it soft on the bottom.
If you're gonna race it, shoot for the maximum power under low compression - otherwise, you'll be very disappointed (embarassed?) if you take it to the track and the fart pipe boys put ya' on the trailer (God forbid !)
Again, run what you want, but if it were me, and I was stuck with the lower compression, I'd go for one of the Whiplash cams from Dave Hughes.
If it's a big thumpin' sound you're after, Comp sells their "Big Mutha Thumper" series designed for low compression, but pounds out some radical tunes at idle.
Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope it runs great for you and do keep us posted !
Southernman
340 8BBL
Well-Known Member
great or sick minds think alike lol.i was thinking that would be a good choice for his set up as well,and ive got the hmv 278 on the shelf.i just was not willing to part with it just yet.the mopar purple 268/272 450/455 110lsa would work good too i think.
If you are dead set on a MP cam. The 484 108LSA cam would work better, still installed the same 100-102 and maybe only lose to the 509 cam in the last 300 of RPM range. it would run much better down low.
Maybe someone would trade straight up, new for new if that's what you have.
Maybe someone would trade straight up, new for new if that's what you have.
EL5DEMON340
Well-Known Member
i ran the 484 on a 10.5 cr 360 and it had a lot of top end, if you have power brakes forget the 509 or 484 for that matter unless you use a vacuum pump. More than likely you car will be faster with a cam in the low 220's @.050 . Like cracked posted maybe you can trade.
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
Ya i'm looking into that. My only prob would be shipping the cam. Wouldn't want to have it damaged.
Indeed, you don't have the compression to run it, but if it's what you have NOW and will get you goin with sumffin, run it. Lots of people pull their hair out trying to decide on this and that. Just do it.You'll have a sense of accomplishment at least....also if you run a loose converter and some gear and a good ign curve, it'll probably run pretty good. Like daredevil said, it will haul the mail upstairs. No doubt about it. Slap it together. It'll be fun. Tons of engines were built like that through the 60s and 70s and tons of people had fun with um. It won't be optimum, but it will be FUN.
A 509 in a 8.5 360. A stock stout LA 2bbl motor will smoke that thing. I don't understand why everyone wants their car to sound cammed even if it hurts performance. A motor should be planned when built . You don't start with a cam and go from there. On the bottom lucky if that motor has 7.5 -1 when calulating the over lap with that low compression motor. Steve
Probably less....lol
Well Steve, it's the sound there after. Coupled by a few things, like, not knowing what a package is. It also doesn't help that people will post up a combo they used and swear by it.
Most people "New" to the high performance side of engines, do not understand the balance that needs to be sought after.
The bottom line with many people is simply a thing that comes down to one word.
Sound.
They want it to sound tuff. Enter a place like Hugesengines and there line of cams, Comp Cams "Thumper" series cams also comes to mind.
No matter how many times I have posted over the years of "Package, package, package!!!!!!!! It still gets ignored.
If anybody wants a "Sound" to there car, simple instal a "Small" cam with a 110 centerline and add a set of tin can mufflers to amp up the sound that the cam beats out. (adding headers help.)
Your done!
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
Rhoads lifters will help a ton.
x2 i didn't know they still make those things.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
Hone it and throw in a set of flagella and deck it and that 509 will be fine.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
i agree, a 509 is gonna be a pig in a low compression motor.
i have this cam in my low compression 360, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-694302/ runs pretty good. i just have a stock oil system so i don't rev it real hard, shifts itself at 5600 and its still pulling like a bear. don't think i'd go a whole lot more on duration without the compression. i'd defiantly stay away from anything in the 240 range. a little more lift wouldn't hurt though.
X3
Oh yea, they have new versions out besides there frst one they came out with. There getting into rollers now.
I first started useing them to slide in a bigger cam to check out how it would be/act. Not being able to just drop cash on a set of gears or tire size adjustment or other parts to compliment the cam, the Rhodes lifters would help down low to mello the cam out enuff to stay with the (then) current configuration.
Though with what the OP has for a combo, I'd just run a smaller cam.
I gotta certain Crane Powermax in mind. LMAO
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