383 dart, center link hits oil pan HELP!!

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danbud61

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I've dropped a 383 from a 68 Coronet into my 1970 dart,
I managed to fit everything except 1.

My center link is hitting the oil pan,thus, I can only do 2 turns l/t and 1/2 turn r/t.

Can anyone help me with a solutions PLEASE?


Dan:read2:
 
Was the Dart a six cyl before? If so, you'll probably need a V8 centerlink. The V8 link drops to clear the pan, but the six link does not.
 
Yes it was!

Is the center link different between a 6 and an v8 ??

Dan
 
My K frame comes out of a 72 Scamp 318, I think I might have the center link up in the garage attic.

I'll give it a try,
Thanks for your help!

Dan
 
There is only one centerlink for a 67-72 a-body, BUT there are still sometimes clearance problems. First off, you need the notched oil pan. Second, you may still need to massage the "correct" pan. A switch to the 73-76 centerlink AND ALL associated steering components clears up most of the clearance issues.
 
I have a notch on the drivers side of the oil pan, about 3 inch in front of the center link.

Dan
 
There is only one centerlink for a 67-72 a-body, BUT there are still sometimes clearance problems. First off, you need the notched oil pan. Second, you may still need to massage the "correct" pan. A switch to the 73-76 centerlink AND ALL associated steering components clears up most of the clearance issues.
I thought there was a difference between 6cyl centerlink and v8 centerlink for 67-72?????
 
Your oil pan notch should be on the passenger side not the drivers side, check to make sure. I dropped a 383 into my Demon with no changes to the steering linkage and it was originally a /6. Also who's engine mounts did you use for the swap.

Terry
 
Don't panic yet. Yes, it sucks but may be an easy fix. What number is stamped in your oil pan - 187, 699, 402?

If the idler is hitting your pan right on a corner where your indentation is (if you have one) then the easiest solution is to take a hammer and tap the corner down till you have clearance. It may not take much and once it's done the idler will swing right in there. You're just flattening the corner, not making a dimple. A little paint and you'll never notice it.

link.jpg
 
I thought there was a difference between 6cyl centerlink and v8 centerlink for 67-72?????

No, Jim is correct, they are all the same from 67-72.

The early A's have a different link for /6 and V8.

Got to remember these cars were built with some pretty large manufacturing tolerances. One car may not have an issue and another has a bit of a problem in the same area.

A little hi-tech hammer technology will probably fix the issue.
 
Your wright the dent is on the r/t side, It's a 699 and I am using shoemaker mounts.

At the present, the tranny is still not in, so the oil pan is just a hair of sitting on the center link.
maybe once the tranny's in, the engine will rise at the rear?????


Dan:read2:
 
The rear of the engine will most definitely rise up when the trans is installed.
 
Agreed - you'll have clearance when the tranny is in. Should be similar to the pic above.
 
I hope it does, I wouldn't want to put back a small block LOL!!!!!

By the way, what does the pan number change in my situation?

Dan:read2::read2:
 
I remember reading that a big block should use the C-body big block oil pan (187, I think) for linkage clearance. Of course, a torch and a hammer would accomplish the same thing, but watch out for your pan baffles, if you have them.
 
I remember reading that a big block should use the C-body big block oil pan (187, I think) for linkage clearance. Of course, a torch and a hammer would accomplish the same thing, but watch out for your pan baffles, if you have them.


I'm with demonseed on this one, I have a 71 duster with a 383,mine has spool mounts tho,, it has a 187 pan and has great clearance, it was a /6 , 73 k- frame. I personally would change the pan before I would dent it with a hammer, but thats me. Lotsa people dont mind runnin new headers beat up with a hammer too,lol,,,good luck.
 
Yeah, worry about clearance when it's all bolted together. I think you'll be fine. I've stuck big blocks into a /6 chassis w/o changing the centerlink.
 
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