4 speed harder to get in get after warmed

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64cudaV8

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Probably been asked before but can't find a good link to my issue. I have a 64 cuda with the 4 speed. I pulled the tranny out along with the motor when I freshened it up. Nothing was changed on the transmission when it was out. When the car is cold it shifts fine. But after it get warmed up it wants to grind a little shifting gears. All gears it seems. Except reverse. Is this a simple clutch adjustment? I had to put new z bar bushings in and clutch rod bushings on the linkage. Guy was just using a big washer where the black snap in part goes. Where is a good point for pedal travel for these things to start engaging? Any tips would be helpful. thanks
 
What fluid are you using in trans ATF or gear oil ? Was it fine before it was pulled? Did you adjust clutch and linkage after z- bar was rebuilt?
 
PENnZOIL syncro mesh?

try it out.

better to try and check fluids before getting into higher expenses
 
Post 3 is a good question.
Doing or not doing something at different temps often means a fluid type change could cure it.

If it was only a clutch adjustment reverse would grind going in.

I'd be all over that fluid to see what I had, then we can make an informed decision from there.
 
I have sta-lube gl4 85-90 gear oil in it. Its good. it has a slight leak so I know it has fluid haha. I am buffing and waxing it today and did notice its doing it in reverse also.
 
70dustah said:
What fluid are you using in trans ATF or gear oil ? Was it fine before it was pulled? Did you adjust clutch and linkage after z- bar was rebuilt?
Click to expand...

No I actually had to take the nut off to rebuild the clutch linkage. So I put it back where I was getting engagement. Might need to adjust it more?
 
64cudaV8 said:
I have sta-lube gl4 85-90 gear oil in it. Its good. it has a slight leak so I know it has fluid haha. I am buffing and waxing it today and did notice its doing it in reverse also.
Click to expand...

So you really haven't checked the fluid level..?? just know it has enuff to leak..??

Cuz your problem is exactly what a trans with little lubrication would do... ask me how I know...
 
The first recommendation in the service manual is ATF.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The first recommendation in the service manual is ATF.
Click to expand...

Yep, it cheap enough to try it, and may solve the problems.

(After fluid level and the clutch adjustments are verified) because if it does it in all gears plus reverse it could be just an adjustment.

Get that fluid level checked first just in case because it's true about acting like that when low.
 
Sounds like it needs a bit more plate departure.
The steel washer idea is a good one, but must be executed properly. Chrysler used to make a kit, with a steel swivel.
The rubber isolator deal isnt the best idea. It seems to work ok when new, on a non-performance application.
If you havent yet done it, Figure out a way to keep that adjuster nut from backing off and losing its adjustment. On my steel swivel, I put a nut on both sides of the swivel. After the adjustment id done, I lock it down with the rear nut. At the end of the adjuster rod, I drilled a hole and put a cotter pin in it. I dont lose my nuts anymore.
The free-play is often cited as being 1 inch. That is to say; the first inch of clutch pedal travel does nothing but move the release bearing out to contact the clutch release fingers. Thats ok for a DD. Just make sure it actually releases the clutch and doesnt grind going into Low/rev. And you shouldnt have to push it all the way to the floor.
I set mine up a lot higher. It just means adjusting it more often.
 
Seems I am having to push it to the floor to get it to shift. The fluid level is fine. I filled it till it flowed out the service hole. and it only leaks a bit. So no where near enough to cause an issue this early. I have read both sides with atf and gear lube. no clear cut answer. Mine had gear lube in it when I bought it. So I topped it back off when some came out from removing the drive shaft. ok a lot.. haha
 
I used to run 50/50; ATF/EP oil.That worked well for me.

Then I spent one summer modding the stuff to run synthetic.Cuz I believe in synthetics. That was a lot of cutting, grinding,slotting,grooving,polishing and time. It got so as I could drop that tranny in 17 minutes,from the time the car was at eye-level, and the tools were on the cart. And that included dropping those 3 inch dual TTI pipes, the Dynomaxers, and the gearvendor unit.

The end result was worth it though, as she now works flawlessly on synthetic, shifting at 7200, with never a problem, anymore. Its greased lightning.
 
17 mins is impressive. this bastard is heavy!! I'll adjust the clutch a bit and see what happens. Whats a good engagement point on the pedal travel for these beasts? Half way?
 
I haven't had a 4 speed in years, but when I did, I liked it to engage about a 3rd of the way up, and have a little free play at the top.
 
I've been through this too. My trans had aftermarket synchros in it. Although they looks brand new they did work well. NOS synchros made all the difference. Stick with GL4 gear oil if you can find.
 
I adjusted the clutch a little seems a bit better but still grinds sometimes. Has good engagement. It engages not far off the floor when I let the clutch out. any other adjustments that could be off sans a fluid change or rebuild?..
 
64cuda
Maybe I forgot to mention;its a Passon aluminum box and cover, and a GV aluminum tail.The assembled box is about 85 lbs. The GV is around 23 lbs. The TTI system from the collectors back, with the 2 Dynomaxers, IIRC was around 70#.I left the TPs hanging.
 
Just a thought!

Did you lube the bushing in the crank? If it is tight the input shaft will drag with the clutch applied and make it harder to shift even with good syncros and lube.
 
I did not. However I don't recall any lube when I pulled it apart. Any way to squeeze some lube in there without dropping the tranny?


1969383S said:
Just a thought!

Did you lube the bushing in the crank? If it is tight the input shaft will drag with the clutch applied and make it harder to shift even with good syncros and lube.
Click to expand...
 
Not that I am aware of!

The originals were oilight bronze and just needed to be pre-soaked in oil.
 
Suggestion only!

I seem to be out of touch based on an earlier thread were cutting the shaft for the wrong crankshaft was acceptable.

Not my way of doing things.
 
Got ya. The bushing seems to be bronze. not the metal ones you see today. I stuck the same one back in since I didn't change anything.
 
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