4 speed ka-booom !

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AJ,
I disassembles my transmission yesterday and to my surprise there is a caged roller bearing in the input shaft instead of the individual rollers! Any idea where I could get another one?
 
If it's an A833, you don't want another one.The cage is taking up valuable space, so whatever load is passing through it is being carried by fewer rollers at any given moment.It has an advantage, but I wouldn't use one here. Except maybe in a low-power situation.
Keep in mind that any time torque is passing into the cluster gear, that cluster gear is trying to force the mainshaft away from itself. So that bearing is taking a load.It's probably worst in 2nd or third, and least in direct.

To be sure, there are other ways of assembling these automotive trannys, but of course, I like MY way bestest.
I share what I have learned, cuz it's the right thing to do. Can you imagine a world, where the first man, Adam, never shared what he had learned, and every generation after him had to learn it on their own? There might not even be a world, if he hadna learned how to procreate!
 
ChargerST said:
Why would you want to keep it secret but tell people about it? The reason for a forum like this is to help other people. If you don't want to share your method that's fine but don't be childish like that.
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I think he's just joking. I didn't see any magic taking it apart and it looks like putting it back together will mostly be a matter of keeping the bearings in place. And using the correct grease !!! LOL
 
Don't forget the O-rings around all three shift levers.Be careful not to cut them. I use an O-ring specific silicone lube. Probably the slipperiest grease on the planet! Well I can't really know that, but I can almost believe it.
 
go back to post #161, ok other guy commented he had secrets, jpar said he likes secrets,
was in jest, get a life!! actually there is an easier method.
 
All the gears and the shafts and stuff go into the big cast iron piece with the big hole in the side...
 
daliant said:
All the gears and the shafts and stuff go into the big cast iron piece with the big hole in the side...
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^^^ honestly ! Thank you for the technical details and support !!! LOL !!

I did have fun today for a few hours. Everything was going like clockwork so far. :burnout:
 
AJ/FormS said:
I share what I have learned, cuz it's the right thing to do. Can you imagine a world, where the first man, Adam, never shared what he had learned, and every generation after him had to learn it on their own? There might not even be a world, if he hadna learned how to procreate!
Click to expand...

Great thread, in large part due to your contributions. The OP is doing a good job here as well. I'm learning from it so thanks. I totally get the 4 speed fun factor. Planning to try out an OD unit. Might blow it up but so be it.:burnout::burnout:
 
Thanks for the kind words. and please keep in mind that the O/D gear in that box is extremely weak. I am not kidding. If you have a V8,be nice to it or be prepared to walk. When it blows you have no idea what kind of damage it will do inside there! For a while I was buying boxes at swap-meets, for spares. It's really easy to forget when you are used to banging gears, with 3.91s or better! Keep you walking shoes in the trunk....
 
Idaho said:
Great thread, in large part due to your contributions. The OP is doing a good job here as well. I'm learning from it so thanks. I totally get the 4 speed fun factor. Planning to try out an OD unit. Might blow it up but so be it.:burnout::burnout:
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I'm pretty sure when you take the overdrive transmission apart you have to drop the cluster gear in the case to get the main shaft of gears out. the opposite going back in you have to put the cluster gear in the case with the bearings and put the main shaft back in and then pull the cluster gear back up to it which is I don't think necessary doing just a regular for speed. I've already put the cluster in and reverse and fixing to put all the other main shaft gears in all at once.
 
"I've already put the cluster in and reverse and fixing to put all the other main shaft gears in all at once."


I'd say good luck with that, and I really mean it. Sounds easy and is definitely possible, but not so easy to do, and if you snag a roller going into the maindrive, you get to start over.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Thanks for the kind words. and please keep in mind that the O/D gear in that box is extremely weak. I am not kidding. If you have a V8,be nice to it or be prepared to walk. When it blows you have no idea what kind of damage it will do inside there! For a while I was buying boxes at swap-meets, for spares. It's really easy to forget when you are used to banging gears, with 3.91s or better! Keep you walking shoes in the trunk....
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I've kept an eye out for posts about experiences with the OD tranny so I know it has limitations. Some have done fine with it. Not planning to race.
 
WOW ! ! THAT WAS EASY !!

I give my highest recommendation to do it your self. Just another great reasons to have a 4 speed !
There are sooo easy to rebuild.
NOW, and this is the big one -- I hope it works???
 
Ok, here's what made the (hard part) so easy - unlike the picture I'm going to show I have the tail housing upside down and and less than one minute of help from my nabor to catch the input shaft as it came through and maintain a little bit of back pressure so the input shaft/4th gear held on the main cluster and didn't spill it's contents. My nabor did hang out with me for a few and actually provided the correct size piece pipe to slip over the input shaft to tap on the main front bearing.
ATTENTION !! -- I'm almost positive that you have to drop the cluster gear in the case to install an OVERDRIVE 4 speed and then pull it up into place after the main shaft is installed. I'm sure its because the overdrive gear (now occupying third gears spot) is to big to clear the cluster.
notice the upward angel ? Important ......
those are not my furry arms, I copied the picture from the tranny rebuild book (recommend) highly !View attachment 535.jpg
 
j par said:
ATTENTION !! -- I'm almost positive that you have to drop the cluster gear in the case to install an OVERDRIVE 4 speed and then pull it up into place after the main shaft is installed. I'm sure its because the overdrive gear (now occupying third gears spot) is to big to clear the cluster.
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No other way to do it, the mainshaft gears won't clear the cluster gears with the counter shaft in place.
Also one tip I've learned is to glue the tail shaft gasket to the tailshaft, one less thing to worry about when trying to load the main shaft into the housing and keeps you from tearing it.
 
daliant said:
No other way to do it, the mainshaft gears won't clear the cluster gears with the counter shaft in place.
Also one tip I've learned is to glue the tail shaft gasket to the tailshaft, one less thing to worry about when trying to load the main shaft into the housing and keeps you from tearing it.
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Yes I did kind of spot glue the gasket on the case. I'm not absolutely positive (mostly because I don't have one) but everything I've heard is you can't set the counter shaft before the main shaft in an overdrive. As I recall correctly thats what I was told when I called brewers Proformance.
 
j par said:
Ok, here's what made the (hard part) so easy - unlike the picture I'm going to show I have the tail housing upside down and and less than one minute of help from my nabor to catch the input shaft as it came through and maintain a little bit of back pressure so the input shaft/4th gear held on the main cluster and didn't spill it's contents. My nabor did hang out with me for a few and actually provided the correct size piece pipe to slip over the input shaft to tap on the main front bearing.
ATTENTION !! -- I'm almost positive that you have to drop the cluster gear in the case to install an OVERDRIVE 4 speed and then pull it up into place after the main shaft is installed. I'm sure its because the overdrive gear (now occupying third gears spot) is to big to clear the cluster.
notice the upward angel ? Important ......
those are not my furry arms, I copied the picture from the tranny rebuild book (recommend) highly !View attachment 1714851713
Click to expand...

I may go through mine before install so this should be handy.
 
j par, haven't read every reply so this may have been brought up before. Mark Williams makes billet caps for the 8-3/4. Needs some surfacing to fit and may not fit all housings.The caps you had were the best ones from the factory. Wonder how long the others would have lasted? Bob
 
abdywgn said:
j par, haven't read every reply so this may have been brought up before. Mark Williams makes billet caps for the 8-3/4. Needs some surfacing to fit and may not fit all housings.The caps you had were the best ones from the factory. Wonder how long the others would have lasted? Bob
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Yes I seen the Mark Williams caps for $105 plus I have to take them like you said to have them worked over or something. by that time I would start thinking about just getting a nodular case from dr. Dif for $300 with billet caps. Then by the time I had to buy new gears new bearings new axles new spool and all the other stuff. I decided to just go with the Dana 60 have already bought a Dana 60 with 410 gears that I can use for $160. You can see my thread on the racers part of the forum called " budget Dana 60".
 
j par said:
Yes I seen the Mark Williams caps for $105 plus I have to take them like you said to have them worked over or something. by that time I would start thinking about just getting a nodular case from dr. Dif for $300 with billet caps. Then by the time I had to buy new gears new bearings new axles new spool and all the other stuff. I decided to just go with the Dana 60 have already bought a Dana 60 with 410 gears that I can use for $160. You can see my thread on the racers part of the forum called " budget Dana 60".
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And if you don't fix the clutch, you'll be busting up the D60. You can keep throwing parts at it, but the clutch will kill it. I know. I was doing it before you were born.

So what did we learn from this thread?

That you have to be PC or Jpar will ignore you and not read the entire post.
Expertise is based on length of time on a forum and number of posts.
No matter what, some have to learn the hard way.

For the money you are spending on the rear end, you could have bought a sof-lok or similar.

I'm waiting for the busted parts so I can say i told you so.

I'm hoping that others who read this thread will learn that is stick shift racing. the clutch is NUMBER 1. Diaphram pressure plates, psuedo-sintered iron discs and voodoo won't get it done. Neither will a screen door dampener. There is a difference between slipping a clutch and mechanically controlling how fast the disc/input/driveshaft get to crankspeed. Sometimes you need to stop buying parts and spend some time learning.

If this hurts any feeling it's not meant to. This is big boy stuff. If you want to be lied to, that's on you.
 
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