400 low buck dont give a

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Lonewolf3165 said:
Carb size does matter in a build as does the way the secondaries are operated. Too big a carb & you'll lose efficiency.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Though it may be tuned to give proper fuel delivery, weak acceleration from a to large of a carb or in the case of a DP, open to soon is the same as to large.

You will have to regulate the secondary opening.
 
earthmover said:
ok guys i picked up a 75 400 (thanks forest) and i plan to put it in my 70 duster to drive or may just end up selling the damn thing..but anyway had a few ??? for you guys..the motor is stock and i dont plan to spend alot of money on it as its just to drive..i however did pick up a tm6 intake for it and i have a 750dlb pumper carb... i spotted a cam (cheap) hydro :D CRANE CAM .504 .528 [email protected] and was thinking of picking it up and sticking it in the 400..i plan to go in the as it has some trash in the top of the carb.. if anything i hope to just put new intake gasket,timing cover,oil pan as i am going to see what things look like inside..oh i forgot i will be putting a set of 906 heads on it that has some port work done to them..low buck ride to just drive around and spin a tire...so i am thinking thin head gasket to bump the comp. if i came.. how do you guys think this low buck dont give a f--k motor will run??????the car has 4.56 gears and i have 28/10.5 tires and 27.5/10.5 tires qtp...:D:D:D:Dso lets hear some input on how this thing will run or not run..what would you change??? no machine work unless it has to be done..but i dont see that being a problem..:joker::joker::joker::joker:[/quote]

I say run it and enjoy it.

We just built a big block with 7.3:1 compression, 229/236, .530/.524, 112 LSA, 107 ICL, iron heads that flow 280 cfm @ .550", Victor intake manifold and a 750 double pumper. It has instant throttle response and is a ball to drive.
Click to expand...
 
maybe i need a cam with less dura. to keep what like cylinder pressure i have in there..:sign7: this may help it to have a little more go then a bigger dura. cam..i will look around and find something cheap to use..lolcut the heads down just a little thin gasket,less dura. and around 500/540 lift hydro cam,:happy1: anyway what ever is cheap ..as long as i can drive this thing again...been had this car about 15/16 yrs been sitting for 3/4 yrs since i sold the old 340 combo..:violent1::violent1::violent1::violent1::joker::joker::joker::joker::joker:
 
A friend put a re-ring 413 in his Dart. Comp with the 906's he used figured out in the 7.5 to 1 range. stock rockers, MP 484 cam, M1 single plane, 950 HP carb, 2-1/4"! custom headers. It ran 12.6's in his Dart the first time to the track, (I was there). He later stabbed in the old "509" cam, and it went even faster, but I don't recall how much. A 150 shot with the bigger cam had him in the 11.0 second range. He had $500 in the long block.
 
thats what im talkin about fun for cheap..america is hurtin and most ppl cant afford expensive stuff.so have fun put some laughing gas on her adn watch her fly.or if she blows go to pick a part and get another junk yard motor and do it again
 
I'd use the cam you have, IIRC it's a 112 LSA, install it at 106-107 range pending valve to piston clearance and go have some fun.

750 DP would work great on it.

You have plenty of gear, use a decent converter, and it should be fun to drive.
 
I'm high jacking this thread a little bit.
With a real world 440 cast crank combo with I don't give a damn combo.
I'd dump the 400 and spend $300-400 and buy a cast crank 440.

Crappy 440 cast crank out of a auction truck I bought at a towing action.
Pistons down in the hole .160 making it about 8-1 comp
Added the following.
Perf.RPM intake
Holley 780 vac Carb.
Schumacher headers and mounts
Mopar ..528 cam
Mildly Ported 906 heads
Well built 727 trans
Truck radiator
8 1/4 rear end sure grip with 3.91 gears

Combo shouldn't work but go's 12.20's all day long.
Runs 11.59 on the juice with 100 hp shot

IMGP0512.jpg


IMGP0481.jpg


Have fun with your car.
Bought the car at the auction also.$650
 
not alot of money to spend on this.. its just a street driven car ..lol with some bs parts on the cheap..all my money is gone to this


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=202283


so this motor has to be my bull sh-t motor....hell i may just ring and bearing the motor and shoot the bottom end out of it..but its just something from cheap old parts and parts i have...traded a intake for the complete motor and trans just to put it in my 70 and drive it...:Di plan to see how the motor looks inside today.. will go from there...:glasses7::sad5::sad5::sad5::sad5:
 
to the OP- spend all your motor mod money on a CSU or Pro Systems blow- thru carb and a T70 turbo- fab up hot and cold side piping and boost it - then it will be a blast...

if you just want a fun drivable car - get a OEM new replacement 68 440 or 426 Hemi hyd cam from Napa, some nice Comp valve springs, Ede dual plane intake, and with the 906's milled that you have should be enough to have fun

I also agree ditch the 4.56's for 3.23/3.55's
 
Ive had a 400 in my car for about the last 15 yrs stock out of a 75 charger put some closed chamber heads on it and a 4bbl with 3.91 gears it ran 14.00 fun to drive and reliable.
 
Over probably 20 years I built, and ran, several 400-based combinations. The key is compression. I bought 3 service replacement blocks from a speed shop in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. back around 1987 or perhaps earlier for cheap. These were factory blocks/cranks/pistons. No hole measured less than .108 down. IIRC the worst was .119 down. With a fresh set of 346 casting heads cut 0.020 (do not recall chamber volume exactly....seems like it was in the 92-3 CC aea) compression was less than 8.0 to 1.0. I used a cast replacement 440 low compression piston with the piston deck milled for a zero deck w/valve reliefs. I think by the time all was said and done they sat at 0.003 down. The rest of the combination was a set of pocket ported 346 heads, torquer intake, 750 AFB carb, a Crane cam with a .112° centerline and .454 I lift, .480 E lift, a set of Hedman 1 3/4" tubes with 2 1/4 exhaust system in a '78 Dodge half-ton PU. It would smoke the tires at will with street tires and 3.55 gears. It ran mid 13's with 4.10 gears and a set of worn out 9" slicks and, if you kept your toe nails off the radiator, pulled down 16 MPG at a steady 60 MPHwith the 4.10 gears. Point is, they can be made to run for not much more than a 440. I like them for A body cars simply due to the exterior size and lighter weight over a 440.
My two cents worth........
Bob
 
Just build them like you would a 383 except bigger intake valves since they arent shrouded like on a 4.25 bore.
 
rgp266 said:
Over probably 20 years I built, and ran, several 400-based combinations. The key is compression. I bought 3 service replacement blocks from a speed shop in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. back around 1987 or perhaps earlier for cheap. These were factory blocks/cranks/pistons. No hole measured less than .108 down. IIRC the worst was .119 down. With a fresh set of 346 casting heads cut 0.020 (do not recall chamber volume exactly....seems like it was in the 92-3 CC aea) compression was less than 8.0 to 1.0. I used a cast replacement 440 low compression piston with the piston deck milled for a zero deck w/valve reliefs. I think by the time all was said and done they sat at 0.003 down. The rest of the combination was a set of pocket ported 346 heads, torquer intake, 750 AFB carb, a Crane cam with a .112° centerline and .454 I lift, .480 E lift, a set of Hedman 1 3/4" tubes with 2 1/4 exhaust system in a '78 Dodge half-ton PU. It would smoke the tires at will with street tires and 3.55 gears. It ran mid 13's with 4.10 gears and a set of worn out 9" slicks and, if you kept your toe nails off the radiator, pulled down 16 MPG at a steady 60 MPHwith the 4.10 gears. Point is, they can be made to run for not much more than a 440. I like them for A body cars simply due to the exterior size and lighter weight over a 440.
My two cents worth........
Bob
Click to expand...

Actually that is a nice build, but.......The key is compression?

Oh...........

"and" pocket ported heads,

intake,

carb,

cam,

headers,

exhaust

and gears.

Sorry, but run it at 8:1 with all that same "and" stuff and the compression won't make that much difference AND you won't have to tear down the bottom end.
 
ok some one give me a good combo idea on this.. i have the heads off and the block looks great.. little carbon build up still has the steel shim gaskets on it..gonna get it all apart and check the bearings and see how they look.. if they are in good shape..ring,bearing,gasket,cam of some sort, and cut the 906 heads that i have ported, intake tm6 and 750dlb pumper carb....would like to find a set of iron rockers on the cheap or trade but if not thats fine to..like i said before small hydro cam around 500 lift and like crackedback said around 112 install on 106/107 around that ..should be good little motor..not spending alot of cash on this go other stuff i need to do to the chassis car...i really started to put the motor in the car and not even look in it but thought i should give it a little love and maybe it would be ok and not have to take it in and out..so shoot me some cam ideas guys..:glasses7::glasses7::glasses7:

75 400 low compression
906 heads ported , and will cut the decks and intake side to build a little compression.
tm6 intake , 750 carb
727 trans, small verta 2500/3000
gear im open to but i do have the 4.56
tire will be 27.5/10.5 qtp street tire as i have a set
also have a set of 28/10.5 slicks lol
may put a 100 shot of nos on it just for the hell of it to see how it runs..
70 duster
msd 6al
new source dist.:D:D:D:D


cam ..............................................................................open to sugg.:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
I think you are on the right track, build what you have and see what it does.
Low compresion motors are easy on parts.
Build a solid bottom end and anything on the top side is easy to change if it don't work.
 
With any of the cams recommended and a 6000 rpm redline you're lookin' at 106 mph. The whole thing seems reasonable to me. Just pick something along the lines of what you thought of, or has been suggested and you'll be fine. What can you get the best deal on? We would like to think our favorite cam is the best, but it's not, one hundred different cams will work.
 
Run a mild cam. Factory stall converter. Get a manual valve body for the trans. 3.55 posi gears. You already have carb and intake. Sort out a basic clean flowing exhaust system. I suggest 2.5" straight pipes. Tear a$$ all over heck and back.
You can probably run friggin 87 octane too.

Lunati voodo 1400 - 5700 rpm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60302LK/

.
 
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::happy1:
 
got the low buck 400 completely apart today .. all the bearing are in great shape no copper showing anywhere in any of them.. i checked the piston in the hole and i came up with 42th. in the hole..\\:D/ gonna get some rings and bearing and see what happen with the rest of the build...it has 452 heads on it now.. gonna put the 906 heads on it.. cam still in the air:D:D:D got some pics but got to go to work so im out til later gator :sunny::sunny::sunny::sunny:
 
Run as much converter as you can up to about 4K. A good 9.5 that is tight on cruise but flashes hard would be a good one.

I know you want it cheap and that may be a bit outside the budget, but, it would make a big difference.

My useless 2 cents! :)
 
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