400 low buck dont give a

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Cracked is right about that. A good verter is a place money is well spent.
 
earthmover said:
ok guys i picked up a 75 400 (thanks forest) and i plan to put it in my 70 duster to drive or may just end up selling the damn thing..but anyway had a few ??? for you guys..the motor is stock and i dont plan to spend alot of money on it as its just to drive..i however did pick up a tm6 intake for it and i have a 750dlb pumper carb... i spotted a cam (cheap) hydro :D CRANE CAM .504 .528 [email protected] and was thinking of picking it up and sticking it in the 400..i plan to go in the as it has some trash in the top of the carb.. if anything i hope to just put new intake gasket,timing cover,oil pan as i am going to see what things look like inside..oh i forgot i will be putting a set of 906 heads on it that has some port work done to them..low buck ride to just drive around and spin a tire...so i am thinking thin head gasket to bump the comp. if i came.. how do you guys think this low buck dont give a f--k motor will run??????the car has 4.56 gears and i have 28/10.5 tires and 27.5/10.5 tires qtp...:D:D:D:Dso lets hear some input on how this thing will run or not run..what would you change??? no machine work unless it has to be done..but i dont see that being a problem..:joker::joker::joker::joker:[/quote]

That cam's one of my perennial favorites. It'sa 112cl and it works well in low compression (9-ish:1) engines - but - that 400's a stretch because it's only around 7.5:1. It will make good power but you'll have to rev it. It won't make it until about 4K.
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are the electric dizzy and good from this yr. motor??? it has 1 but i have a 440 after market 1 i could try and get the spacer for..if the stcok 1 is fine i can just lock it out if needed..\\:D/\\:D/\\:D/:toothy6::toothy6::toothy6:
 
hey bob went to vmp today you didnt miss anything..lol :protest::protest::protest::protest:
 
earthmover said:
ok guys i picked up a 75 400 (thanks forest) and i plan to put it in my 70 duster to drive or may just end up selling the damn thing..but anyway had a few ??? for you guys..the motor is stock and i dont plan to spend alot of money on it as its just to drive..i however did pick up a tm6 intake for it and i have a 750dlb pumper carb... i spotted a cam (cheap) hydro :D CRANE CAM .504 .528 [email protected] and was thinking of picking it up and sticking it in the 400..i plan to go in the as it has some trash in the top of the carb.. if anything i hope to just put new intake gasket,timing cover,oil pan as i am going to see what things look like inside..oh i forgot i will be putting a set of 906 heads on it that has some port work done to them..low buck ride to just drive around and spin a tire...so i am thinking thin head gasket to bump the comp. if i came.. how do you guys think this low buck dont give a f--k motor will run??????the car has 4.56 gears and i have 28/10.5 tires and 27.5/10.5 tires qtp...:D:D:D:Dso lets hear some input on how this thing will run or not run..what would you change??? no machine work unless it has to be done..but i dont see that being a problem..:joker::joker::joker::joker:[/quote]

I think it will run good if it's tuned right. In the Direct Connection Engine book under hydraulic cam testing they used a 3000lbs. Duster (without driver), 727 trans, 8 1/4 rear with 4.30 gears and 9" slicks. The 400 only had 8.5 compression with Stage IV heads. With a 509 cam it ran 11.82 @ 116.61mph! That's right from the Direct Connection Engine manual. Just my 2 cents. I'd go for it and let the tire smoke begin!
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yea i plan to start the build next week.. rings, bearing,cam bearing, and all new gaskets..hope to get it worked out on the cam...intake i need to go pick up..i have the 750dbl pump carb, going to run some headers..should be a nice street motor.. gonna try and play with a small shoot of gas also..lol :D:D i think it will be ok for what i plan to do .. drive it to the store around the block, race my brother in laws chevy truck 350/750,headers,no gear,and dog legged(1 wheel pullin):argue::argue::argue::glasses7::glasses7:
 
well being off work sucks so now i get to read some old mopar books..the 400 from 72 through 78 all came with 8.51 compression, and according to the mopar engines book if i cut the heads .060 the motor will be almost 10.0.1 :prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer: at lease some things are looking up :D:D:D:Dpage 220 in the mopar engines book....:walk::walk::walk::walk::walk:
 
Ran a 400 in my 74 cuda 400 was out of the crate replacement block.My combo was crane dual pattern cam .467-.494 offenhauser 360 degree intake 750 vac holley 1 3/4 headers with a 360 converter heads were 346's no work other than valve job back cut on valves.Gearing 3.55's ran 13.40's through mufflers.Just because there low compression doesn't mean they wont run.

On another note my 70 Dart drag car with a 1977 cast crank all stock bottom end from a motor home with a set of 516 2.14 1.81 valves some port work .590 solid MP cam edelbrock torquer 2 intake and 750 Holley carb pro parts headers 3800 Coan converter spinning 4.56 gears on a 30 in M/T"s car weighs #3000 with me in it runs 11.0's 6.90's in 1/8 th 119 mph going through traps at 6400 rpm's been in car for 3 seasons now.Motor advertised comp from factory around 7.8:1 maybe a little over 8.1 with cylinder heads.I run on 93 octane.Threw this motor together with stuff i had laying around .
 
earthmover said:
well being off work sucks so now i get to read some old mopar books..the 400 from 72 through 78 all came with 8.51 compression, and according to the mopar engines book if i cut the heads .060 the motor will be almost 10.0.1 :prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer: at lease some things are looking up :D:D:D:Dpage 220 in the mopar engines book....:walk::walk::walk::walk::walk:
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They came rated as 8.5:1. They actually came out at about 7.6:1 when you measured them and calculated. The block machining sucks and head chamber size was always larger than "advertised".
 
hey moper when i took it apart i did try and measure it a little bite.. the piston was down in the hole about 42th. i used some feller gauges to measure it.. not the best way to measure but i was just getting a idea of what to look for..i plan to get some new bearing this week for the crank,rod and will get a better idea, and see where we stand...but i do know its not the 100th or 70th that i have heard people say, its no where near there....:D

also i plan to cut the 906 heads down just a little to help out on the compression... its just going to be a nice little street car....lol
 
earthmover said:
got the low buck 400 completely apart today .. all the bearing are in great shape no copper showing anywhere in any of them.. i checked the piston in the hole and i came up with 42th. in the hole..\\:D/ gonna get some rings and bearing and see what happen with the rest of the build...it has 452 heads on it now.. gonna put the 906 heads on it.. cam still in the air:D:D:D got some pics but got to go to work so im out til later gator :sunny::sunny::sunny::sunny:
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Was this engine rebuilt in the past, is it overbore or has it been decked a ton , someone swap in a low compression 440 piston because there was a factory 400 built with a piston that high in the hole ...
 
Maybe you got lucky...lol. It's hard to get compression in a B wedge so anything you can squeeze into it is a good thing.
 
Want to have so real fun on a budget leave it stock, go to the local junkyard and pick up a used Turbo, do some fab and viola.....ture burning street machine that still runs like stock around town.
 
I have ran a few el- cheapo 400 in the past. Best one was 72 Demon stock 75 400 out of a charger. Stock short block. Checked bearings and cleaned everything. Installed windage tray, new stock- replacement oil pump. Stock oil pan. Used Crane Cam cant remember exact specs but it was mild 230-480 i think it was. Matching Crane lifters also. Anyways double roller t-chain, 516 closed chamber heads with larger valves installed 2.08 1.74 . Stock valvetrain non -adjustable rockers. Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. Holley 750 Double Pumper. Full MSD ignition, Cheap Headman shorty headers and 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters. 2500 stall Mancini convertor and a 4.10 sure grip 8.25 rear. Had all the usual goodies on the car, weld wheels, racing bucket front seats, Holley blue pump, B&M Pro- Stick, blah, blah, blah. Car was an absolute blast on the street, lots of low end power and sounded mean. Never got that one to the track but it did alot of street racing and took alot of abuse. This was in early 2003 so it was already a well used engine before i got it. Don't listen to all the negative things, do what suits you best. I had very little funds for a new engine so i went to pick-a-part spent $ 150.00 for the short block, few bucks on gaskets, freeze plugs, paint ect. Swapped on a few parts from my old engine and i was back on the streets. Didn't have to wait a few years to save for a big $$$$ build. Good Luck!!!!
 
............seeing that ur buying bearings anyhow i would just have the crank offset ground..........it solves the problem of low compression and relives the hassle of making things fit after milling the heads .060................kim.........
 
oldkimmer said:
............seeing that ur buying bearings anyhow i would just have the crank offset ground..........it solves the problem of low compression and relives the hassle of making things fit after milling the heads .060................kim.........
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to much money..lol just gonna ring,bearing,gasket,cam,and shave the heads,oh and nos(small shot):D:D:D:D:D:walk::walk::walk::walk:
 
well i put the short block back tog. to get some pics today.. and will try and load them tonight.. i put the 1/2 piston back in and tq everything back down to spec.. the piston are 3mm down in the hole.. dont know what that works out to be in th. as i loaned my calipers out about 4mths ago and dont have them back yet. i used a set of slide calipers not digital...the last 3 digits on the rods are 692 and the # on the pistons are 052 on the side and have a f on the other side...i used a washer to feel the gap from the top of the piston to the deck and the washer was just a bite to thick but you all can see the point.. i have no idea of whats been done to the block or what but hey i really dont care as long as it runs good..lol.. anyway i will keep you all posted on it.. i know it has a lot of look like 6 on the side of the block painted in white on both side about 3 per side...so now the build process will start.. do some oil mods ,pressure wash clean all the holes and run a tap down all of the bolt holes , forgot to look at the rod and main bearing # to see what they where..stay posted and we will see what she will do .....:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
:D:D hope this helps and work lol
 

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so what do you guys think ??? will i have a little bite of compression ????now i need to check the piston to valve to see what works and dont.. i hate to buy a cam and not be able to use it..even if it is cheap..lol :D:D:D:Dso step on in guys and tell me what you think on the piston and deck height deal...i am new to big blocks so i need all the help and info i can get..
 
It's really tough to determine p/v clearance without having the engine in front of you...do you have something you can mock up to give you an idea of how much p/v clearance you would have? If you're still planning on cutting the heads down, I'd almost say you might wanna stay below .500" or so lift...but advancing/retarding the cam will have an effect on your clearance as well as the max lift. I'm new to big blocks too, so my knowledge of how much lift/duration you can get away with is very limited. I'd venture to say the best person to determine your p/v clearance is gonna be either you or the person/shop you request to build the engine...

...just my 2 cents...
 
oh no i plan to stick it all tog. and measure before i do any work...:Djust wondering what most guys thought the compression would come out to be???but i guess i am on my own ...:wack: ..but alot will jump in and say its 7.5:D:D:D:D:D:D thats ok i will see just how it works out .. thanks all..:prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::prayer::-({|=:-({|=:-({|=:-({|=:-({|=:-({|=:walk::walk::walk::walk::walk::walk:
 
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