416" on the dyno

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rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
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Back in April of 2016 I put the first version of my 416" engine on a dyno to break it in and see what it would do. It's a factory 340 block (I bought off @stroked340 in the ETown pits many years ago) bored .030" over, Diamond dished pistons at zero deck, (10.3:1 c.r.) IMM CNC RHS/LA-X iron heads, Comp 251/259 @ .050" solid FT cam, Hughes 1.6 rockers, 'gasket-matched' Holley Strip Dominator intake, OOTB Proform 850 carb and TTI W2 1 5/8" step headers.

I thought it would realistically make around 525hp. When I got to the dyno shop, the operator laughed and said yeah sure, we'll see. It ended up making 500 hp on the dot and 502 lb. ft. of torque. The dyno operator was genuinely surprised and impressed but I was disappointed that it didn't hit my number. There were a few things holding it back (not the heads or cam) and trying to understand how those choices impacted the results led me to revisit what I had done to that point. I opened my eyes to a a bunch of stuff so it was a good (but expensive) learning experience.

If you're inclined, the link below will provide some background on where this project started.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2055372/re-416-on-the-dyno.html

BTW, @PRH was generous with his time back then in helping me understand what I was looking at in regards to the dyno results. I still appreciate that and carried some of his insight with me to now. The dyno shop owner was very surprised that I even knew what BSFC is and why it's important and commended me on that so thanks again Dwayne.

For various reasons, that first version of the engine never ran again so fast forward to 10.24.25. I won't detail all the boring crap that took place over the last 9 1/2 years but let's just say "I saw the light" during that time and this is what it looks like now;

Bloomer Performance aluminum cylinder heads with PAC springs and titanium retainers (and I believe Ferrea valves?) @BPE
Diamond flat top pistons for approx. 11.3:1 compression
Cometic .0039" MLS gasket
Bullet 263/268 @ .050" solid roller cam, .665" lift installed at 104 (they started me at 272 @ .050"!)
Comp 8043 lifters
Manton 5/16" pushrods (yes, 5/16")
Home port-matched Super Victor intake Super Victor port matching
Moroso electric water pump
TTI 1 7/8" headers
Precision HV oil pump

Left over from 2016 are the block, crank, rods, bearings, piston rings, timing chain and tensioner, oil pan and pickup, plug wires and my same old Mopar "race" electronic tach drive distributor. Those parts only had dyno time and survived without any damage so it was pointless to replace it all. I didn't re-hone the cylinders either so the rings were transferred directly to the new pistons in the same positions.

For this most recent dyno session, it was first run with the same OOTB Proform 850 from 2016. It eventually made the most power with the dyno shops' AED 950 cfm carb using 98 jets in the front and 99 in the rear. Turns out both of these carburetors were actually too small as the dyno showed well over 1" of vacuum under the throttle plate at WOT. BSFC was good though at .454 while using 288 lbs of fuel. The dyno has the Snuffleupagus tube but did not have a carb hat with an air sensor hooked up so no VE measurement but it's probably over 100%.

Timing is 20º initial and 34º total. I use an FBO advance limiter plate. It still has a slight curve for street driving but it's all in by around 1,500 rpm. I think it will probably want to idle at 1,200 or more. No timing comparisons were performed.

630hp @ 6,400 rpm and 567 lb. ft. of torque @ 5,200.

I'm a little scared of this thing now. It's going to be pretty rowdy on the street and will certainly be capable of low 10s in the 1/4 mile and may dip into the 9s if the driver can tune the thing and get it down the track at some point. Once in the car it will be using a Holley Terminator X system (which I believe is 950cfm). The hope is the EFI will help with drivability and consistency. It may not make quite the same peak power at WOT but it won't really be prone to weather changes and can theoretically be adjusted to run decently at low rpm. It has occurred to me that I might need a vacuum pump.

I do want to mention that going in I was concerned about using my brand-new TTI headers before knowing everything was good. They are expensive and TTI is very clear about running them on an unknown new engine. They tell you that if the coating gets discolored from a bad cylinder they won't warranty them. I brought my old step headers with me but the dyno operator assured me we would start conservatively and keep an eye on the A/F numbers before any real pulls were made. These larger headers are a royal PITA to get on even without being in the car so it really would have been a waste of time to start out with the smaller ones. The ports are round W2 style and are smaller than the head exhaust port anyway. In the end it turned out there was nothing to worry about as the A/F ratios were good from the start. We pulled the plugs after the last pull and they were literally perfect.

Note the timing mark at the base of the bend in the electrode. The shop owner looked at them with his loupe and said the carbon ring was perfect.
IMG_9506.jpg


In any event, I am proud of what I built. A lot of time was spent on the details and the results of that speak for themselves. It seems like a pretty big accomplishment to have extracted this much power out of a standard LA combo on pump gas. OK, it's got a decent size solid roller cam in it and the heads are pretty special but none of it is exotic by any stretch - still has the stupid 59º lifter angle, no raised ports or offset rockers, no block fill, 2 bolt mains, I beam rods, flat top pistons with a standard ring pack, single 4 bbl cast intake with no plenum work... the same parts are available to everyone. With today's prices I still don't think I even have $10K in this combo.

Dyno sheet.
416 dyno 10.24.25.jpg


Turn it up! I left the comments in at the end because it meant a lot to me to hear them. The dyno shop owner is into some high dollar/top tier stuff so I don't take what he said lightly.


After we were done and breaking things down the dyno shop owner told me it would make 650 with an 1150 Dominator and a vacuum pump. I don't even know what to say about that.

I have to finish the car now so don't expect any any drag strip results until next year. I am bummed that another year has gone by with the car still not finished but the engine was a big step and things should fall into place a little easier now.

Enjoy folks!
 
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Dude....hell of a journey to get where your at. @630 HP i would say for sure you get into the high 9's depending on the weight of the car and the converter. I got a set of those heads that will be going in my Dart next season.
 
I have to finish the car now so don't expect any any drag strip results until next year. I am bummed that another year has gone by with the car still not finished but the engine was a big step and things should fall into place a little easier now.


Congratulations on a very stout build!
I'm in the same wait and see mode with the 340cid (460hp/440ft-lb) that @NC Engine Builder finished for me this Spring. Car has a long way to go before it's ready for the engine and the anticipation is killing me. Can't get enough time out in the garage to make progress fast enough. I can only console myself by fogging the cylinders and valvetrain with oil and turning it over by hand occasionally.
 
Congratulations on a very stout build!
I'm in the same wait and see mode with the 340cid (460hp/440ft-lb) that @NC Engine Builder finished for me this Spring. Car has a long way to go before it's ready for the engine and the anticipation is killing me. Can't get enough time out in the garage to make progress fast enough. I can only console myself by fogging the cylinders and valvetrain with oil and turning it over by hand occasionally.
It hurts to think about how long my car has been apart. Hopefully it’s all worth it in the end.
 
My car is way lighter than that. I think it’s under 3,000 now without me.

That Dart that ran drag week is 3200 ish same motor as you except think he just has a Victor and is running that 268/274 crower roller. He averaged 9.90 something for the event and finished it..on pump gas.
 
You should be proud. The one thing I will say though is that short timing curve is most likely too quick for that head.

You may want to slow down the curve a bit. Except you aren’t on the dyno so that makes it harder to quantify.

GREAT BUILD.
 
Thank you.

Once in the car the ignition will be controlled by the ECU so I can make the curve whatever I want.

That’s the good thing about the EFI stuff is that you can tailor all the points of a curve, not just the whole thing.

The shop owner was impressed with that distributor though and was surprised it wasn’t an MSD.
 
Thank you.

Once in the car the ignition will be controlled by the ECU so I can make the curve whatever I want.

That’s the good thing about the EFI stuff is that you can tailor all the points of a curve, not just the whole thing.

The shop owner was impressed with that distributor though and was surprised it wasn’t an MSD.


Yep, riding the dots. Way easier than springs and weights.
 
You should be proud. The one thing I will say though is that short timing curve is most likely too quick for that head.

You may want to slow down the curve a bit. Except you aren’t on the dyno so that makes it harder to quantify.

GREAT BUILD.
How he has the timing is how Rod had a motor almost identical on the dyno at BES back then they initially flogged it. Mine is 34 total as well, locked out.
 
How he has the timing is how Rod had a motor almost identical on the dyno at BES back then they initially flogged it. Mine is 34 total as well, locked out.

And I’m saying never once have I seen locked out timing not kill torque all around peak torque and peak power.

Not once.

And I used to lock everything out.

Plus, I’ll say it again for those who might not have heard of it before, the chances of you having 34 degrees of timing at max rpm is near zero. Unless you are setting your total at max rpm you don’t have any idea of what it is anywhere but where you set it.

Thats unless you have tested your ignition on a test bench just like it is in the car and your box has little to no retard. That would be very rare.
 
Good job. Now if these numbers were the goal, the heads were the problem ...you removed them and stuck some way bigger better flowing heads on.. like night and day.
You could probably squeeze a little more out of those rhs, but you were already knocking on the door of running out of port volume.
Jmo.
 

That made good power. You should be proud of that for a home build. There’s not many similar. It’s relatively efficient also. Interesting to me how hot you ran it on the dyno and one thing I don’t like is the oil pressure. Any concern there?
 
And I’m saying never once have I seen locked out timing not kill torque all around peak torque and peak power.

Not once.

And I used to lock everything out.

Plus, I’ll say it again for those who might not have heard of it before, the chances of you having 34 degrees of timing at max rpm is near zero. Unless you are setting your total at max rpm you don’t have any idea of what it is anywhere but where you set it.

Thats unless you have tested your ignition on a test bench just like it is in the car and your box has little to no retard. That would be very rare.
Assuming your like me and could care less what torque and power I am making anywhere below where the convertor hits at, what is your suggestion?
 
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