426 wedge build

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Jeez Christ !!! The freakin guy is building what he wants and how he wants and every oxy is questioning what he wants. Ain't this some ****... Again.

Fisher, I hear ya brother. Ya got a 383 and your doing that instead of spending more money on another engine (which may not be good) and then having a 383 sitting on the side until.......

There is always a guy than sez ya should have built it bigger. With there thinking, sell your house and roll the money over into a super quasi I moto Godzilla block bore out to 1 foot and throw in a mega mountain man crank @ 1-1-2 foot stroke..

It never ends! I play with a 318 to keep busy during a build up of another project and people always gotta add 2 cents dispite the fact of what I said above.

The because "I wanna do it this way" is t good enough. LMAO!!!!
 
X2 on that. This car stuff is still fun, right?. Stroked 383 with iron heads and solid lifters is a proven grinerator.
 
Hey rumble, relax buddy!! I am just bouncing around ideas for the guy, he DID say it was gonna be a "budget" build, with a goal of 425 horse or so in his first post, and followed that up with something to the effect of peoples input is welcome. I DO think its cool to build that 383 block, and its IS cool to have a 426 cube low-deck, but there are other options..
 
Picked a cam today. Voodoo lunati Solid lifter cam.


Product Description
These aggresive solid flat tappet designs give your street/strip engine the power it needs to win!Solid Flat Tappet. Designed for Pro Street / mild race engines.
• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 272/280
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .546"/.566"
• LSA/ICL: 110/106
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016"/.016"
• RPM Range: 2400-6500
• Includes: Cam Only
 
Placed order today, Got the Lunati cam, Eddy heads and intake, Comp rockers. Will order the rest as time goes on.

How do i tell if my 440 steel crank is internal or external balance?
 
All cast cranks were externally balanced, I believe your statement is correct for forged cranks.
 
Well the block has been rough bored, Diamond pistons and eagle 7/16 rods were ordered. Will take crank balancer and flex plate to maching shop this week so the assembly can be balanced once crank has been ground to fit the block. After calculations we will end up with an aluminum head 10.0-1 compression pump gas solid lifter street motor. Will post updates of the build and dyno session.
 
I love what you are doing.This is the engine Chrysler should have built in a low deck. Lets see some pictures.
 
Fisher very interested in your build, keep it up. I am planning on doing the same build and have begun collecting parts. My main question is what is the best way to do this build- cut the crank or cut the block? I have heard pros and cons of each method, anyone have any insight?
 
We are cutting the crank to fit the block. We pulled one spring off the Eddy head, and tested it, it will handle the cam very well. Will take pictures of the build as we go along.
 
Fisher said:
I might as well just build a 451 then? I want a 426 and thats all there is to it. The word budget is now out the window.
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Can't argue with that and I like the way you think. Following your build. 451? What's that (no offense to 400 stroker guys) but 426? Now that gives me goose bumps. :prayer:

Not a hater either, I have a 400 block in the stock pile.
 
younggun2.0 said:
because with the right springs they rev. like a ****.
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Yeah, I asked this question some time last year, and just wanted some perspectives because I only knew one or two people personally that ever used them...and they were track only cars.
 
I have run solids and solid rollers in the street! You just have to stay on top of it and take care of your stuff! Solids lifter cams sound sweet on the street!
 
Fisher said:
I have run solids and solid rollers in the street! You just have to stay on top of it and take care of your stuff! Solids lifter cams sound sweet on the street!
Click to expand...

Not a doubt in my mind anymore-hence the reason I asked the question ;). Think about this one: when I working on gathering up parts the first time I put my car together as a teenager, I asked a couple people about solid cams and using them in my car-my Dad was deadset against it, and since much of the help I was getting at the time was out of his pocketbook, who was I to argue?? LOL

His reasons were along the lines of expensive machine work; I had non-adjustable fulcrum rockers in my 302 at the time, so fixing them up for adjustables would've run about $300+rockers. He also told me they'd always need adjustment-like once every couple weeks, blah blah blah. You get the idea. If I had it to do over again, I'd have probably run a solid cam when I bought Edelbrock heads for my Mustang.

Sorry to bore you to death there-lol, I'm still at odds with which cam to use in that 383 I have sitting in my storage unit back in Abilene, but I've been eyeballing the COMP XE grinds lately...either them or a Howards 281/287
 
I have sat down with my engine builder on every one of my builds,and we come up with a combo and a plan.Has worked every time.He has been doing this for 40 years, he know what will and wont make power. he can make power out of nothing heads too. My 355 SBC in my vette is one of his 9.0-1 compression pump gas crate motors. Solid stock short block, dual pattern comp hyd cam, 882 truck heads worth nothing till he gets in there and does the bowl work etc, dual plane intake and 670 holley. Made 350 HP and 390 TQ nice little street engine, drive it anywhere.
 
Right on! :thumblef:

I'm hoping I can make some decent power with those 915s...if the cost for redoing them approaches too high with parts and labor estimates, I'll just spring for the Stealths and ask IQ52 to church them up.
 
txstang84 said:
Not a doubt in my mind anymore-hence the reason I asked the question ;). Think about this one: when I working on gathering up parts the first time I put my car together as a teenager, I asked a couple people about solid cams and using them in my car-my Dad was deadset against it, and since much of the help I was getting at the time was out of his pocketbook, who was I to argue?? LOL

His reasons were along the lines of expensive machine work; I had non-adjustable fulcrum rockers in my 302 at the time, so fixing them up for adjustables would've run about $300+rockers. He also told me they'd always need adjustment-like once every couple weeks, blah blah blah. You get the idea. If I had it to do over again, I'd have probably run a solid cam when I bought Edelbrock heads for my Mustang.

Sorry to bore you to death there-lol, I'm still at odds with which cam to use in that 383 I have sitting in my storage unit back in Abilene, but I've been eyeballing the COMP XE grinds lately...either them or a Howards 281/287
Click to expand...

if you have QUALITY VALVE TRAIN and set them up correctly the first time and use the correct oil you shouldn't have to adjust your valve lash often at all. that is a blanket statement. I understand that some combo's require more attention than others. When i built my engine I used the comp cams magnum rockers with there adjusters. I set my lash up for break in .002 tight when engine was cold. broke in the cam. reset lash when engine was hot (was nearly perfect). I put 800 miles on the car and rechecked the lash. only had one rocker that was off by .002. that was most likely me setting it that way. the point is that if you use quality stuff and set it correctly they are nearly dummy proof.
 
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