440 Bearings

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1968 Valiant

1968 Valiant

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Here is a bearing from the 73 440 I am hoping to install in my Valiant. What do you think?
I am hoping to run this motor as is.

Also number one cylinder has some light rust in it due to that having an open valve while in storage. The rest are fine. I will post a pic as soon as I get the head off. The assembly turned over perfectly as soon as I undid the number one connecting rod.

Question: Is this a futile attempt or will the motor clean up the cylinder with a bit of oil at startup?
 

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Crank and rod bearings are cheap, nows the best time, replace em. Also if the picture can be believed your timing chain has quite a bit of slop in it.
 
I noted the chain slop as well. I was already planning on replacing it. I have been robbed of power before by an overlooked chain.

Will the engine take well to having new bearings put in it without any machine work?

(My goal here is to make a runner so I can play this summer while building my dream 440)
 
1968 Valiant said:
I noted the chain slop as well. I was already planning on replacing it. I have been robbed of power before by an overlooked chain.

Will the engine take well to having new bearings put in it without any machine work?

(My goal here is to make a runner so I can play this summer while building my
dream 440)
Click to expand...

As long as the journals aren't scored or pitted and clean up with a light polish they should be fine.
 
Forgive my ignorance but can you define a light polish?

Do you mean scuff them up with a rubbing compound?
 
Not a bad idea to install the Hemi main bearings for rod bearing oiling.
 
I'd take it apart, clean it up and give it a hone, check the rings and pump it back together.
 
1968 Valiant said:
Forgive my ignorance but can you define a light polish?

Do you mean scuff them up with a rubbing compound?
Click to expand...

No, no, I use 600 grit emery paper (comes in rolls 1" wide) soaked in tranny fluid. But to do it properly the cranks got to come out otherwise you risk contaminating the oil galleys. Plus the cranks got to be flushed good afterwards.
 
I will definetly take it out. How long on each one?

Also If I did hone it myself would I use a ball type and for how long? Would a new set of rings seat properly?

THANKS FOR THE HELP!!
 
1968 Valiant said:
I will definetly take it out. How long on each one?

Also If I did hone it myself would I use a ball type and for how long? Would a new set of rings seat properly?

THANKS FOR THE HELP!!
Click to expand...

I think before going any further with polishing or honing 101 get some good pictures of the crank journals and the rusted cylinder, worse case you might have to get a professional hone job and have a crank shop polish and inspect the crank, $100 for the polish and inspect. It's difficult to explain how much polishing is required till we see the condition.
 
Hi, You should take the whole engine apart & inspect everything. The brgs are shot and there is likely metal through out the engine. Make sure you inspect the oil pump for damage. Crank will need to be removed & polished. CLEAN EVERYTHING. PM sent. Hunky
 
The pics too blurry to really see. I'm not a fan of replacing only bearings on a used crank unless you measure it all carefully.
 
Pulled the head off last night. As I thought #1 has some pretty bad rust. I think a hone might not do it. A little bummed.
I will post pics later tonight when I get home.
 
1968 Valiant said:
Pulled the head off last night. As I thought #1 has some pretty bad rust. I think a hone might not do it. A little bummed.
I will post pics later tonight when I get home.
Click to expand...

I just went through the same deal. Valve open, cylinder etched. I am now up to $2000 and not done yet. 3 seats in the heads were ate up as well and have to be replaced!
 
Dang. I am desperetly trying to make mine a runner with a cheap low compression 440 while I spend dollars and time on proper machining and parts for my 68 steel crank core.
Seems like there were enough of these motors made I should be able to snag a runner.
I have one more 440 that I am opening up tommarow. Like the other two I have inspected this one is a claimed "ran when pulled". If that appears true then I will clean it up, paint it, new gaskets and start the swap.

I ran a California emissions low compression 440 bone stock in my ramcharger when I was a kid. It was a blast. Moved right along. Not much in the high end. Was well suited for a lifted wheeler.
Hoping this one will be fun in my light valiant till I get a true screamer.
 
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