I generally would agree. The ONLY reason I got mine was because it was a scratch and dent and was REAL CHEAP. You know me. LOL Thankfully, it worked out.
440 Cooling Question “Champion Rad”
- Thread starter Skeeter007
- Start date
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Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Ok last question for today. Will the 69 A-Body rad slide into the opening of my 71.
The 69 and back rads have the inlet and outlet on the proper sides for my application. I believe the answer is yes but I need to hear it. Lol
The 69 and back rads have the inlet and outlet on the proper sides for my application. I believe the answer is yes but I need to hear it. Lol
They're made in China, too.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Damit I’m cheap too!!!
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I choose not to read this. Lol
Almost 100% sure. Almost. lol
Yes
Just lettin you know. You're gettin an overpriced polished turd, instead of a non polished reasonably priced one.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I have this from my 72 A body 340, dm me if interested, I will take it to my radiator guy to make sure it is good.. it will slide right into your car and has the trans cooler built in
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
Do you have a link to a non polished semi turd that would same me a couple of bucks to look over.
Thanks for the offer. The inlet and outlet are reversed for my application. Water pump is on the drivers side. Appreciate it though.
Look at how Chrysler, Ford and GM designed a proper shroud.
Then look at the cookie sheet “shroud” (I use that term very loosely) you get with the electric fans.
Once you start getting your road speed up you can’t force all the air through the radiator and it becomes packed air.
Guys will argue this but I’ve seen it many times.
If air doesn’t go through the radiator it’s not cooling ****.
You NEED air flow.
You NEED coolant flow.
To that end you need the water pump to turn crank speed or faster. In the next couple of weeks I’m going to test an electric water pump verses a mechanical pump at 6% over driven verses the same mechanical pump at 20% over driven to see what the power loss on the dyno is.
Whatever it is it will not translate to the chassis because the biggest issue I will have is keeping the coolant at 160 degrees.
There isn’t an electric pump out there that I know of that is capable of doing that.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I’d love to see that result. The Cold Case looks to have a more traditional fan shroud. The cookie sheet on the Champion is definitely that, a sheet.
The typical fan shroud that come with radiator electric fans typically is parallel to the core and very close to it. This creates a static pressure area between the shroud and the core. So little air moves in that area.
The opening in the shroud is in the 2 x 12"id. if you do the math you have a blockage of about 50% of the core so at speed you will tend to have overheating issues.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
This thread is trashed. Lol
I've said it before on lots of threads and will repeat it here: if you're going the route of an aluminum radiator, look into a Champion Cooling Systems radiator. It's a different company than Champion Radiators. Speak with them and get their recommendation for your application. Good people! I have one that keeps my avatar's 408 happy down here in Florida.
Champion Cooling Systems
Champion Cooling Systems
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
They have n
They have nice affordable rads. I’ll look into them. They have drop in packages. I’ll add them to the call list. I’m interested in the tube size and what the shroud looks like.
Champion Cooling Systems has a sale going on right now also
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
They have n
They have nice affordable rads. I’ll look into them. They have drop in packages. I’ll add them to the call list. I’m interested in the tube size and what the shroud looks like.
I see that!Champion Cooling Systems has a sale going on right now also
Eyeing this
1970-1971-1972-Dodge-Dart
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I'd bet they're probably all made in the same factory overseas.
Stay away from any fan/shroud combo any of these offshore radiator companies sell. If you need an electric fan, go with an OE unit like one from a Contour, HHR, Mark VIII, Taurus, T-bird, etc.
Stay away from any fan/shroud combo any of these offshore radiator companies sell. If you need an electric fan, go with an OE unit like one from a Contour, HHR, Mark VIII, Taurus, T-bird, etc.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I can't see any photos on the site that shows the shroud. Champion looks absolutely called in. Cold Case looks to be near to farctory as one can get. Champion Cooling Systems doesn't have a photo of one with a shroud but do offer with a 16' fan. Be Cool is just triple the price and not in the cards. Going to try and ding them tomorrow and see if their open Boxing Day and they can send me a photo of the shroud. It looks like a nice bolt in Rad. I also have questions on tube size in the two row. no mention I can see on their site.
I used a Champion HD radiator and their fan/shroud on my mild 340 Formula S (maybe 350 HP). It cooled OK much of the time but was not adequate as temps rose above 90 degrees. In Denver, air density is lower so more air flow is needed for the same cooling need. I don't think the Champion fan had the needed CFM for my application. Also, RRR said, Champion radiators mount further rearward taking up space and you many not have with a '70+ long snout water pump. I ran out of room with my setup (many reasons for this including undetected front-end damage that move the core support back about 3/8"). I went with and Engineered Cooling Products dual fan setup that allowed the water pump to be inbetween the two fans with enough room. Even a 7 blade factory fan didn't fit, so I had to go with electric.
the ECP radiator (22") keeps my 340 between 180 and 200 at 95°, so I am OK with that.
Honestly, I should have used the '69 and earlier WP setup as it has much more clearance (3/4" shorter snout) allowing a factory fan.
As RRR said, this is hot rodding and your initial setup may need to be modified or trashed to make the system work. Not cheap, but you learn from your mistakes.
the ECP radiator (22") keeps my 340 between 180 and 200 at 95°, so I am OK with that.
Honestly, I should have used the '69 and earlier WP setup as it has much more clearance (3/4" shorter snout) allowing a factory fan.
As RRR said, this is hot rodding and your initial setup may need to be modified or trashed to make the system work. Not cheap, but you learn from your mistakes.
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I’m getting lots of feedback. I was going to pull the trigger today but will hold off until Monday. I have a set of electrics up in the attic I’m going to pull down and see what’s what with them. Both are mounted to a shroud. Could save a couple of bucks. I’m going to call Champion Cooling Systems on Monday though. See what they say.
Thanks again.
MILO
Well-Known Member
what ever radiator you put in paint the top black like a original mopar
Skeeter007
Skeeter007
I like that idea. I should’ve painted the heads and intake too
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