596 head performance mods

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macdiesel

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I have a set of 596 heads that I wanted to fool around with and try and make them decent performers. They're going on a budget street 360 w/4" cast stroker crank. This will be the first bit of head work I've ever done. My plans are to install bigger intake valves, do some pocket porting and gasket matching, and fill the exhaust crossover passage. I was thinking about a cam with a duration of about 240* @.050 lift 110 LSA and around .520" lift...

I've got some question though:

1. What should I use to fill the exhaust crossover passage?

2. Does Mopar make porting templates for this head?

3. Anybody got experience with porting 596s?

4. How big should i go with the intake valve (2.02, 2.05, 2.08 )?

5. Should I go up to 1.65" on the exhaust valve?
 
There are a lot of different opinions on 2.02 vs 2.05 intake
I think the 2.02 will be good, I believe the 2.05 negatively affects low lift flow just a little but helps the higher lift flow.
I like the idea of the amc 1.65 exhaust valve being that it creates more short turn to work with.
I don't think you can fit 2.05 & 1.65 without clearance issues, but have never done it myself.
There used to be templates from chrysler.

Just profile the guides long and skinny towards the center of the intake entrance and open the pinch up.
Cut out some-all of the guide boss kink out of the roof and lay the short turn back a little blending it to the tallest part.
Take your time and don't open the bowl up too big or you'll kill the flow.

The exhaust wants to almost go straight up off the seat in line with the valve stem slightly rounded at the top then straighten out the roof and remove the guide boss.
Take your time.
 
Since your changing valves anyway you might as well use 11/32 stem valves. Of course you probably know you'll need new guides to use them but more than likely you need guides anyway if the heads are original. The exhaust side don't flow great on LA heads so I'd think the larger 1.65 exh valve should help. Like Crusher said using the 1.65 exh valve will limit the intake to 2.02 but done right a 2.02 intake can flow enough for a mild stroker. Race engine is a different story.

Don't think Mopar perf. has any templates but just do what Crusher said and you'll be good. I ported my X heads which are nearly identical castings and got 250 cfm on the intake with the larger 3/8" valve stems. They were the first set of LA heads I've ever done so you can do it. Just remember to take your time. Getting in a hurry and going through the casting isn't a good thing.

I saw a guy melt aluminum in the crossover once. Don't know if this is the way everybody else does it but it worked for him.
 
buy small block chevy 11/32 stem valves...+.100 longer.

they are available in 2.02..2.055...2.08 intakes and 1.60 ..1.625 exhaust
 
Thanks everybody! That stuff should help a lot.

So SBC valve are just .100" shorter? Will getting these affect the rest of my valve train selection?

Any suggestions on springs, retainers and locks? I know that stuff can get pricy quick. Can I use SBC parts or will I have to custom order the right stuff?

Also, I thought about using block filler or JB weld on the exhaust passage. Good Idea?
 
They are saying go with SBC valves that are .100" longer then stock mopar valves. This will increase your spring's install height which you'll need if you want to run a bigger cam.
 
All good advice. I've done all in the past, plus spent lots of time relieving the huge casting lumps of the roof of the intake. Not to mention, tubing the pushrod holes and opening/smoothing the intake runner. The latter is an extra expense though and not worth the expense, unless you have the means. Good luck!
 
Using .100+chevy valves is the way and if they install seats on both int/exh they will have the valves sitting high on the seats -good for wedge heads- and will get the valve stem height like stock= 1.920 =no geometry issues.
If you use the chevy valve springs they'll probably just cut the spring pads for heights of 1.75-1.80 etc.
 
If you use the chevy valve springs they'll probably just cut the spring pads for heights of 1.75-1.80 etc.

Right, and that makes for alot better selection of springs. Mopars stock low installed height of 1.7" isn't huge in the aftermarket. Springs for them will cost nearly double what Chevy springs cost that are installed at 1.8"

As far as what springs to use that depends on the cam. Get your cam first and look on the cam card for the spring pressure requirements and match a set up from there.
 
Right, and that makes for alot better selection of springs. Mopars stock low installed height of 1.7" isn't huge in the aftermarket. Springs for them will cost nearly double what Chevy springs cost that are installed at 1.8"

As far as what springs to use that depends on the cam. Get your cam first and look on the cam card for the spring pressure requirements and match a set up from there.

So I probably won't be able top get away with the lift that I want unless I have the spring seats cut?

This is an area that I'm not very knowledgable on...
 
If you get the right retainers and keepers you can get 1.800 installed with a mopar valve and not have the expense of the chevy valves. This would be the simplest way to do it and the extra need for seats and guides isn't needed. IMO
 
I agree, Unless his heads are worn out and he's going with bigger valves, then the chevy set up is just as cheap or cheaper, you could reuse exhaust valves but........why?
Guides cost the same and would require k liners unless knurling them.

The set of .100 long 11/32 2.02-1.60 cost me $140.00 from engine pro and came with stainless valves, the exhaust valves were ferrea however both int/ex were made in argentina.
 
But the price of cheap valves doesn't mean that they will flow or work better in a Mopar head. Also what works in a GM head is and was designed for that head. I've been this route and most every time the head had turbulence when the GM style valves were used. Isn't the object to get rid of turbulence and smoothen out the air flow?
I have found ways to get rid of turbulence without port work, and I agree that the GM valves are cheaper but most of them are 2 or 3 piece valves. And to get a good 1 piece valve reguardless where you get it it's going to cost more. So now the price of valves are similar, most 1 piece valves run $16 - $18 each. This is the cost of MP valves from the dealer.
IMO I would stay with what works and works very well and not try to get fancy with parts, unless you've been doing performance work for awhile and understand the effects of what a part change does to performance.
 
I know about the tulip/semi tulip valves and there reasoning behind using them and all the low lift flow .150-.400. Doesn't sell me.

The valves I have are 1 piece, made in argentina....wait...guess what? mopar valves are made there too, did you know that?
Ever buy big valves for a set of RT's @ 18.99 ea.? If yo have then you've seen the same packaging I have, the same packaging thats wrapped around my intake valves right now=made in argentina.

BTW I run 347lbs open pressure w/mancini's stainless replacement semi tulips right now and no valves are falling apart, done this with stock valves too.

I think if your running big lifts .550 & up the nail head valves [chevy valves] are great, now if your running under .525 lift then maybe you should stick to the tulip style.imo

Not trying to sound like an a hole here, just telling what I know.

Bobby, more insight would be nice to your reasoning.
 
Explain how a nail head valve with an undercut stem creates more turbulence?

Explain how if that turbulence is coming off the valve and into the chamber how that turbulence is harmful and not just mixing more.
 
Well can we really buy anything here in the USA thats really made here and not just stating that. For that matter most all Titanium valves are made in China then machined here so I don't understand why the country of orgin has anything to do with this.
As for the open pressures I have run more than this also and I have also ran 180 on the seat with stock valves with well over 400 open.

As for the valves creating turbulence the undercut on the valve stem which the manufactures state that they flow more air, well maybe they do but in a GM as the head castings and the shape of the port complement the style or shape of valve used. If you look in most any mag. all you see is SBC and the undercut valves. What the mags. don't tell you is what works best with a mopar. A few years ago when I was talking to Larry Shepard at a national event I was listening to what he had to say to a fellow racer and why the engine wasn't making the power that it was suppose to. When Larry asked him if he had followed the performance build ups in the mopar performance book, he said that he did to the letter. But come to find out that the difference was in the style of valves that he had used. He told Larry that he used the Milodon valves and that they had a undercut on the stems.
Larry told him to take those valves out and put in the mopar performance ones and that the engine would pick up. The difference was that even though the stock valves are nail heads, the aftermarket ones are undercut but still nail heads.

After my friend left I asked Larry why the difference, he then explained to me that the undercut stem made the air change direction and run into the back side of the valve instead of directing it to the cylinder. I looked at him dumb founded and really didn't believe him either. But then the proof was when I put both the stock style and the undercut style valves to the test. Using a head that I already had ported I first tried the stock valve and it flowed like I expected it to and then replaced it with a new undercut valve from Manley. Both margins were similar and both had the same work done to them.

Low and behold Larry was right, the undercut stem had turblence at just over .500 lift and never cleared up even up through .800 lift. Where as the MP valve stayed steady through out the flow range. What I had found was that the undercut valve made just enough change in the air that when the air passed by the valve that instead of making a smooth curve or transition past the edge of the of the valve that it the air started to spin under the head in the chamber. When this happend the air flow is disrupted and the fresh air charge was backing up on it's self. Showing a flow loss on the bench and wild fluctuations on the monometer.

The best that I could figure that was happening was that the air was making a sharp turn instead of a more gentle turn when entering the chamber, creating a high pressure point under the head of the valve. Then when this area fills up the air starts to backup on it's self and disrupts the incomming air flow or charge. Where as the straight stem valve moves the air flow pattern more towards the edge of the valve and makes a smoother transition into the chamber, eliminating the high pressure spot under the head of the valve. The best thing that I found was how thick the margin is determines how smooth the air will pass. Adding .020-.030 more margin to a valve makes the air flow in more of a cone shape or funnel shape. And stops the under head turblence, because the air has to flow further past the head of the valve before it enters the cylinder. When I did this the air flow of the head picked up about 15-20 more cfm's.

The same thing happened to Mikel Beck's heads when using the stock valves. When I replaced them with the MP ones the head flowed nearly 25 more cfm's and this made the low lift flows flow even more. Nearly 10% more at .200 and .300 lifts.

Sorry for being so long winded but Crusher asked. lol
 
So I probably won't be able top get away with the lift that I want unless I have the spring seats cut?

This is an area that I'm not very knowledgable on...

According to your first post I see your wanting to run about .520 lift. That's no problem at 1.7" installed height using single springs that are properly selected. You just need springs that the rated coil bind is 1.13" or less. You only need to have the spring seats cut if you want to use dual springs.
 
According to your first post I see your wanting to run about .520 lift. That's no problem at 1.7" installed height using single springs that are properly selected. You just need springs that the rated coil bind is 1.13" or less. You only need to have the spring seats cut if you want to use dual springs.

Will I be able to get away with single springs with that much lift and dration at a 6500rpm redline?
 
Well can we really buy anything here in the USA thats really made here and not just stating that. For that matter most all Titanium valves are made in China then machined here so I don't understand why the country of orgin has anything to do with this.
As for the open pressures I have run more than this also and I have also ran 180 on the seat with stock valves with well over 400 open.

As for the valves creating turbulence the undercut on the valve stem which the manufactures state that they flow more air, well maybe they do but in a GM as the head castings and the shape of the port complement the style or shape of valve used. If you look in most any mag. all you see is SBC and the undercut valves. What the mags. don't tell you is what works best with a mopar. A few years ago when I was talking to Larry Shepard at a national event I was listening to what he had to say to a fellow racer and why the engine wasn't making the power that it was suppose to. When Larry asked him if he had followed the performance build ups in the mopar performance book, he said that he did to the letter. But come to find out that the difference was in the style of valves that he had used. He told Larry that he used the Milodon valves and that they had a undercut on the stems.
Larry told him to take those valves out and put in the mopar performance ones and that the engine would pick up. The difference was that even though the stock valves are nail heads, the aftermarket ones are undercut but still nail heads.

After my friend left I asked Larry why the difference, he then explained to me that the undercut stem made the air change direction and run into the back side of the valve instead of directing it to the cylinder. I looked at him dumb founded and really didn't believe him either. But then the proof was when I put both the stock style and the undercut style valves to the test. Using a head that I already had ported I first tried the stock valve and it flowed like I expected it to and then replaced it with a new undercut valve from Manley. Both margins were similar and both had the same work done to them.

Low and behold Larry was right, the undercut stem had turblence at just over .500 lift and never cleared up even up through .800 lift. Where as the MP valve stayed steady through out the flow range. What I had found was that the undercut valve made just enough change in the air that when the air passed by the valve that instead of making a smooth curve or transition past the edge of the of the valve that it the air started to spin under the head in the chamber. When this happend the air flow is disrupted and the fresh air charge was backing up on it's self. Showing a flow loss on the bench and wild fluctuations on the monometer.

The best that I could figure that was happening was that the air was making a sharp turn instead of a more gentle turn when entering the chamber, creating a high pressure point under the head of the valve. Then when this area fills up the air starts to backup on it's self and disrupts the incomming air flow or charge. Where as the straight stem valve moves the air flow pattern more towards the edge of the valve and makes a smoother transition into the chamber, eliminating the high pressure spot under the head of the valve. The best thing that I found was how thick the margin is determines how smooth the air will pass. Adding .020-.030 more margin to a valve makes the air flow in more of a cone shape or funnel shape. And stops the under head turblence, because the air has to flow further past the head of the valve before it enters the cylinder. When I did this the air flow of the head picked up about 15-20 more cfm's.

The same thing happened to Mikel Beck's heads when using the stock valves. When I replaced them with the MP ones the head flowed nearly 25 more cfm's and this made the low lift flows flow even more. Nearly 10% more at .200 and .300 lifts.

Sorry for being so long winded but Crusher asked. lol

WOW! My knowledge on valve design just doubled! You also saved me from buying some undercut valves... Thanks!
 
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