61 or 62 /6 to small block

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61lancer666

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We know that Chrysler never referred to my early Lancers as A bodies. Are there any significant dimensional differences between the 61-61 and 63-66 chassis that transplant parts are made for?
 
I don't know with certainty; a couple of measurements would tell; a 64 to 66 "K" member will bolt in which would allow for V8 mounts; you would need to "adjust" the fire wall for distributor clearance which should get you where you want to go.

Measurements needed would be center distance for "K" member mounting bolts side to side and front to rear.

Others may know more..................
 
Thanks, JBurch. I have a 61 770 Lancer 170 automatic car and a 62 Lancer GT 3 speeder Aluminum 225. Both cars run and are not all clapped out. Just gonna have to decide which one of them is going to get a stroked small block.
 
you have the answer-- with a 61 or a 62 -- 62 will be like 63-66 cars-- 61 is still unique with different steering ,strut bars & lower control arms to name a few.

not sure if the 62-66 parts will swap directly into a 61 car, Lawrence
 
Thanks, VDART. I was thinking that the 61-62 chassis are very much the same as 63-66, but nobody offered A-body stuff for them because they were not called A-bodies by Chrysler.
 
The 61 - 62 engine compartment is the same, 63 is the same width as the 64 - 66 but 64-66 is a bit longer from what I remember. I'm sure TTI's wont fit 61-63 cars but spitfires might work with a bit of work. Stock 273 manifolds do work with minimal grinding around the steering shaft. I used V8 mounts from a 64-66 car in a 62 Valiant with a 318 and 904. We pulled it from a about 71 Scamp. The mounts were used and once in a while we couldn't figure out why the steering would 'jam', later we realized when accelerating hard the motor would touch the steering shaft. The distibuter will sit up tight against the firewall so you'll have to tap it out a bit. I used 1/4 thick aluminum to raise the engine a bit to clear the center link as back when I did the swap I didn't know about the V8 later center link being a bit more drop for oil pan clearance. The other big thing is the heater box is in the way. I believe I also used a 90 degree oil filter adapter.

I did this swap a long time ago and that's about what I remember...
 

It is far easier to convert the '62 to a v8 from a six because it is virtually identical to the '64-'66 cars and all necessary parts for the conversion bolt directly in. You can bolt up the '62 K frame/suspension/steering in your '61 but you have to notch, dimple really, the inside edge of the lower frame rail to clearance the torsion bar adjuster in the later style lower control arms. Also as Vdart suggested you'll have to create your own steering center shaft as the length will be wrong if you use the '61 column. If you use a '62-'66 column assembly attached to your '62-'66 steering box you'll find it to short inside to clear the dash pod when you turn the wheel unless you run an aftermarket steering wheel that can be spaced toward the driver. All that said I hope you convert the '61 as it has a way more unusual dash and your '62 GT is a really rare combo as equipped in my opinion.
 
Thank you for your experienced insight. Just gonna have to keep the 62 GT intact for the most part. Maybe pull the aluminum block and set it in the corner of the shop. The hot rodder in me says that we'll have to install a floor shifter, same as in dad's 61 cross-ram fury or my son's 65 Dart. Went to pay for car yesterday. New floor pans and nicely done quarter patches. One pump and car fired and idled well. Who don't love a 62 Lancer GT Aluminum blocked 3 speed? Raise your hand.
 
. Who don't love a 62 Lancer GT Aluminum blocked 3 speed? Raise your hand.

Well, maybe you have not shopped for a "special" head gasket yet? Yank it, install a iron long block, drive the heck out of it and sell the stored AL block with the car when its time. Id give you my 170 short block if you were local.
 
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