63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

[Dne007]

I'll pass it on to him, actually pretty cool!

here is an affordable 68 Camaro (same color as my first one)
https://www.amazon.com/AMT-AMT868-12-25-Camaro/dp/B00GA3KRYU/?tag=fabo03-20
(tried link, doesn't open. but it's $25.)

 

[Dne007]

Hi guys! I've been kind of busy with stuff~ went to a Nifty50ees today, my brother drove his mgb and my Triumph TR6, Gary's in the middle of the pic. Great gathering of people n classic cars.
put a little time into my trunk to make it more appealing;)

I've driven the dart about 20 miles, does well, starts off coolant temp about 160- then 170, then went pulling into the driveway, about 190. AC working great! I'd like to drive it further, but Gary's a little worried as he has his colonoscopy tuesday I was thinking to let it just run in the shop and see what it does temp wise. Ok,
got to go

 

[JDMopar]

Your trunk work looks nice! Poor Gary! The prep is the worst part. The very last drop of that stuff is the hardest one to swallow. The best part is going to get something to eat afterwards because you're starved to death, then going home and taking a nice nap while some of the Jackson Juice is still in you from anesthesia...lol.

 

[Dne007]

ok, took a longer drive this morning by myself, dang it runs great! however, when driving/moving along say 30-50ish, the temp stay 170-180, but when coming home and just 0 mph, the temp get up to 210-215 pretty quick AC on or off, doesn't seem to matter, but placing my squirrel cage blower directly into the radiator will be the temp down to 195 and stay there. It's only 80 degrees today. So, an 1) air flow problem? and/or look for a much better radiator? Just don't get stuck in traffic!

 

[mygasser]

lots of 'modern' cars with ac have the engine's viscous/mechanical fan plus an electric fan that cuts in in time with the ac. maybe it's worth adding an electric 'pusher' fan switched by a water temp sensor in front of the radiator pack.
neil.

 

[Dne007]

Unfortunately, the grill support is there, and just not enough room for a pusher fan. Maybe a puller electric fan? just always hated the noise of an electric fan

My 67 Mustang has a large Griffin radiator and it can be 100 degrees and never gets over 170 degrees, Amazes me

 

[mygasser]

maybe 2 smaller fans mounted either side of the grill support? you could even get all flash and have them coming on at different temperatures, lol.
neil.

 

[Dne007]

thinking about a different fan like this one~ need to move some air

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-6-Blade-Driven-Silver/dp/B076N539NM/?tag=fabo03-20

I'm currently using this one, it is super quiet, but maybe just not pulling the needed air flow

 

[George Jets]

May sound crazy, but try it without the shroud.

Cooled a 440 with the same setup but No Shroud. Cooled just fine, traffic or not.

Those shroud corners may just be holding the air flow back. If it's open air can flow through.

440 ^ no shroud, going on 5 years now still running cool.


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[Dne007]

Well, that's not a bad idea at all~ after lunch I'll remove it, it's a pita, but is something to try

May sound crazy, but try it without the shroud.

Cooled a 440 with the same setup but No Shroud. Cooled just fine, traffic or not.

Those shroud corners may just be holding the air flow back. If it's open air can flow through.

View attachment 1716479665

440 ^ no shroud, going on 5 years now still running cool.


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[Dne007]

I’m never putting that shroud back in, arg, it was kind of warm(engine), takes a while to get up to temp, but even with the strong fan blowing, the temp crept up to what you see, ac wasn’t on.
Without the shroud in place, there is a lot of air , but don’t know if it’s being pulled through the radiator. So I closed the hood. Without the squirrel cage blowing, I think it would have gone higher in temp. It’s mid 80’s now.
I need gas so tomorrow when we get home, I’ll take it for another run.

I’m confused why it runs much cooler on the road vs a blower directly into the radiator
I want a bigger radiator! lol

hood closed with squirrel cage blowing into radiator, I also checked with my infrared and it's a little more than 200 directly onto the T housing, away from the exhaust manifold side.

my poor radiator

 

[mopowers]

Does an infrared gun confirm what the gauge reads?

 

[Dne007]

I’d say yes, funny that the T housing doesn’t really reflect the exhaust manifold temp, not too much anyway,

 

[George Jets]

Slip a 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of printer paper in over the AC condenser center it in the radiator while running and close the hood.

Is the paper (air flow) still sucked up to the AC condenser (radiator core) with the hood closed idling at 800 rpm?

_________

Outside the box thoughts...

Your AC condenser is straightening the air headed for the radiator, the radiator core straightens the air some more as it is flowing through. T-Bones into the outer corners of the shroud.

Think of an aircraft jet engine. Has a fan at the front and next turbine blades directing the air flow over the next set of blades. There are multiple sets of blades in there directing the air flow to do its job.

They are steering the air flow through those jet engines, kind of like your radiator situation...


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[Dne007]

Gee, George, didn't see what you wrote, However, got some gas and went over to AD dyes park where I can get up to 30-40, slow down, turn around repeat and maintains 179-182, it starts off so gradual, eventually 160,170, then 180, as long as I'm moving with speed, couple thousand up to 3k rpm's it does fine, but slow down~ like parking~ there she's goes. But I don't think there is any difference with or without the shroud~ so I sit in the garage with the engine running praying it won't creep up to 205-210 and then some. I've never let it go to far. Then with the engine off, the temp really goes up, but stands to reason with the dissipation. Once I get this thing conquered, it's a blast to drive!!

I can try the paper trick tomorrow George;)

I do have the original heavy metal fan, 7 blades, I think it was for an air conditioned car. IT came with the /6 out of the '76 Plymouth Duster, I guess I could try it and see what it does.

 

[George Jets]

Wondering what you have your initial ignition timing set at?

I know Halifax set you up with a nice Mopar HEI conversion distributor and a Pertronix 45,000 volt coil.

Now if you have more than 15° BTDC initial timing, that can create heat.

Factory timing is 12° BTDC, but being the HEI and PIII 45,000 volt coil that burns a faster spark (with the plugs opened up to .040 ths) that advances the timing in itself.

So to compensate > back down the timing to 10° BTDC.

If you choose to go with a 60,000 volt (square e-core coil, full 12 volts) which your ignition will handle, then you can back the timing down to 8° BTDC, with the plugs gapped at .050ths.

Set with the vacuum advance canister plugged and capped as you know. Then hook back up after timing is set.

Less initial timing = less heat.
Dialing in the fireball at top dead center for the most efficient burn and power of the compressed fuel.

Rock Auto ^ has them for 22.00 plus ship.

Application:
'95 F150 ignition coil
Nice 2 spade hookup


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[Dne007]

oh, I forget what I set the timing at, I thought it was 10 degrees, but I'll check tomorrow. I haven't pulled a plug since I started it, I'll recheck those too. Can valve adjustment do anything related to heat?


I feel I need to check the valve adjustment, never did quite understand the valve adjustment relating to the cam car below. Now that I have some time on the engine, maybe I should adjust the valves the normal way.

 

[George Jets]

Now you have my curiosity up.

It's been 6 months of running around town here in Palm Bay FL, about max 45 mph unless out on I-95 then it's about 70 mph.

Checked the plugs tonight as the sun was setting after a run this afternoon with the '89 D100 318 4 bbl and Mopar HEI and E-Core coil.

Been 6 months since I last looked, figured they would be burning black by now. Nope, burning nice and clean, tailpipe clean too.

NGK GR4 plugs gapped at .050 ths timing set at 8° BTDC

No wonder it runs so nice and is so responsive.

Happy Camper


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[Dne007]

 

[mygasser]

we used a wide blade flex fan on ashley's zephyr with an fe big block. he hot lapped all afternoon at the local 1/8 mile track with the motor idling all the time in the fire up road so no cool down between runs. it sat at 150 the whole time. his was a 19" big boy and he has a 3 row big block mopar aluminum radiator but still it was a hot weekend. when asked why he kept it running he said he needed to know it could handle being stuck in heavy traffic without overheating...... check
neil.
ps it isn't anywhere near as noisy as we'd expected it to be, not as annoying as many modern 'efficient' electric fans for sure.
Belt-Driven Radiator Cooling Fans | Summit Racing

 

[Dne007]

Thank you Neil;) Now to figure out what size fan to get. Now that I've kind of tossed the fan shroud, there's room for say an 18" or 19"

 

[mygasser]

i'd go with the biggest that'll fit. easy to check, just tape a bit of card to the end of one your current fan blades and spin it and trim it 'til it clears everything. more definitive than trying to measure clearances, it's how i do it anyway.
neil.

 

[Dne007]

G'day maties;)
pulled a couple plugs, #3 and 5, look good. The engine actually runs very well.
I did back the timing back from 10 to 5 degrees, (vacuum plugged), still revs super well. The engine at that point was warm, but ran the engine at about 1500rpm, AC on, and the needle slooowwwly creeps up to 220, hood shut, squirrel cage fan blowing directly into the radiator. I'm just letting it cool down, then take it for a drive and see what it does. Very frustrating. New fan will be here tomorrow, but I just don't think that's going to remedy the heating at standstill. Perhaps a better radiator?
going to the grocery store now

The radiator I have:

1963 - 66 Dodge Dart 3 Row All Aluminum Champion DR Radiator (6 Cylinder) | eBay

Champion Cooling radiators are tig welded with aircraft grade aluminum. Every radiator comes with a limited lifetime warranty so you can buy with confidence! Product Specifications: Core (H x W): 16.75" x 19" - Overall (H x W): 22.25" x 22.5" - Hose Locations (In x Out): Off-Set Pass x Pass -...

www.ebay.com

 

[mygasser]

you could be right about the rad'. did the factory ac cars have a bigger core?
like the fan if i'm not building factory stock i'll fit the biggest rad' i can get in there. the ally rad' i have for my little rambler is for a v8 full size ford bronco. probably too big for a mild 318 but i'd rather have to deal with choosing a hotter t/stat than worry about overheating. plus if i swap a big block in later it'll be one less thing to buy.
neil.
ps i always understood that engines run hotter with the timing retarded.

 

[George Jets]

G'day maties;)
pulled a couple plugs, #3 and 5, look good. The engine actually runs very well.
I did back the timing back from 10 to 5 degrees, (vacuum plugged), still revs super well. The engine at that point was warm, but ran the engine at about 1500rpm, AC on, and the needle slooowwwly creeps up to 220, hood shut, squirrel cage fan blowing directly into the radiator. I'm just letting it cool down, then take it for a drive and see what it does. Very frustrating. New fan will be here tomorrow, but I just don't think that's going to remedy the heating at standstill. Perhaps a better radiator?
going to the grocery store now

The radiator I have:

1963 - 66 Dodge Dart 3 Row All Aluminum Champion DR Radiator (6 Cylinder) | eBay

Champion Cooling radiators are tig welded with aircraft grade aluminum. Every radiator comes with a limited lifetime warranty so you can buy with confidence! Product Specifications: Core (H x W): 16.75" x 19" - Overall (H x W): 22.25" x 22.5" - Hose Locations (In x Out): Off-Set Pass x Pass -...

www.ebay.com

View attachment 1716479983

Interested in the results of your test drive.


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