'64 Dart drum to disc conversion advice

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Andar

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Hey fellow Mopar community,

I'm new to classic cars and looking to learn working on em, I'm all ears for any advice so thanks in advanced!

I got a '64 dart that I wanna swap to disc brakes, I've read up on quite a few threads but wanted to confirm everything I need and make sure things go well.

For tools, I'm buying a torsion bar removal tool, tie rod separator, pickle fork, upper ball joint socket, and flare wrench set.

For brakes, I know I can buy some remade or used parts, I'm not 100% certain which A body years will be compatible with my 64. For kits, a lot of them require an upgrade to 15" but I found Wilwoods off carparts.com that are for 14".

For the rear, I just keep drums on (right)?

I was also thinking of redoing the front end. Any suggestions?

Thanks a bunch guys (& gals).

-Andy
 
I am in a similar boat with my '67 barracuda. i bought a conversion kit off DoctorDiff website. the stage 1 kit says it works with 14", but i'm not at the stage of putting it all together just yet (still working up the courage to take the old bits off...i stopped after taking the old drums apart. lol)
here's a link to the kit i got (it starts with you putting in your specs and then choosing the appropriate add-ons): http://www.doctordiff.com/10.95-front-disc-brake-kit.html
....currently in the market for some straight forward detail instructions on tear down of the old set up! haha....
 
This is way easier then it all sounds. I have done this conversion on over 10 of these cars . The 1964 conversion is a little more work due to need of installing a proportioning valve . the 1967 barracuda is as easy as it looks , its a total bolt in . In every case i never changed a proportioning valve and the cars stopped just fine all with manual brakes . The master cylinder i use is for a 1 ton pickup with power disc brakes . if you dont wonna change the upper a arms dr diff has inserts you can use to make the smaller ball joint work. If the 67 car has a sway bar you need to set the spindles up to mount the calipers to back instead of the front . Its really a very easy process
 
Well gents, you have to have a plan for your car before you set sail on the disc brake journey! Since both the 64 Cuda and the 67 Cuda mentioned above are small bolt pattern 4" rims, you need to decide if you are going to swap the small bolt pattern Kelsey Hayes discs on the front and stay small bolt all the way around, or if it is your plans to upgrade to large bolt pattern 4.5" rims, what you will do about the rear end!! After you decide on your plan of action, it is easy to procure the correct items needed to do your swap of choice! Most all parts can be had over the counter at Rock Auto, and the rest can be had right here for either swap!!
 
mopar jimmie said:
The 1964 conversion is a little more work due to need of installing a proportioning valve.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't any drum-to-disk conversion require adding a proportioning valve? As I understand it, drum/drum systems never had the proportioning valve that is needed for disc/drum systems. (The distribution block is not a proportioning valve.)

mopar jimmie said:
In every case i never changed a proportioning valve and the cars stopped just fine all with manual brakes .
Click to expand...

From what I've read (no personal experience yet) omitting the prop valve makes it likely that your rear brakes will lock up before the front if driving on a non-ideal surface. You might not notice it if you only ever drive on dry pavement and don't brake that hard, but the proportioning valve performs an essential function: it reduces the pressure to the rear brakes, which is necessary because drum brakes produce more friction with less pressure than disc brakes.

As a novice, I've found this page to be the best explanation of what you need.
 
rich006 said:
Wouldn't any drum-to-disk conversion require adding a proportioning valve? As I understand it, drum/drum systems never had the proportioning valve that is needed for disc/drum systems. (The distribution block is not a proportioning valve.)

My 67 had drum/drum and i just removed all the old brake lines and the proportioning valve. i have no idea if that's the norm, but it was there and i took it out...partly because it was the only way to get the rest of the rusted lines out but mostly because i have a new one to put in.
(not sure if that's important for anyone to know...)

i have a follow up question though, if anyone can help me...
the top pic is after removing my front drums and backing plates (a great picture for reference, probably)
the second picture is my new parts...
i know there's the knuckle and the lower ball joints (i think)...but does anyone know where/how to put the other piece, which i think is an adapter for the upper ball joints. it's the set up i got from doctor diff :''72 and older A-Bodies with stock upper control arms require upper ball joint tapered adapters. You must also install '73-'76 A-Body lower ball joints.'' has anyone seen or used this kind of adapter or kit?
it's really stumping me, since i have no experience with this whatsoever.

~jen
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Note that if you go to the late (73-up) model brakes to get the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, you'll need a different ball joint socket to put the new set back in.
 
64DartGTinAZ said:
Note that if you go to the late (73-up) model brakes to get the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern, you'll need a different ball joint socket to put the new set back in.
Click to expand...

Exactly where I'm confused now. I did get the upper ball joint adapter with my conversion kit. But I wish I could find just one picture or diagram detailing what that set up looks like. I'm a very visual person when I'm not familiar with the technical stuff &#55357;&#56853; (I have the 4.5" bolt pattern, btw) (EDIT: <---that's a lie...I'm working with the 5x4 bolt pattern. Doh!)
 
@ dadscuda
Are you sure you have the 4.5" bolt pattern? Measure from the center of one stud to the far side of one that is "opposite" (google "measure bolt pattern" if I'm not clear) The piece on the right in your second photo is the caliper bracket. The pictures you want are here.
 
Hi Andar, welcome to the forum. I just completed the swap. After careful study I chose Wilwood street kit. Why ? Because, it is complete, small bp compatable and engineered by people who have been around for over 30 years. Replacement parts are available overnight if necessary. If you have 9" brakes you may have to convert to 10" drum spindles. Yes, you will need a prop valve. Cost: It's not cheap. What is your life worth or the life of your passengers. Good luck, Tom
 
dadscuda said:
My 67 had drum/drum and i just removed all the old brake lines and the proportioning valve.
Click to expand...

The thing you removed is not a proportioning valve. It's just a distribution block with a pressure switch that controls the brake warning light. It does look similar to the switch/proportioning valve that came with your disc kit, but it doesn't have the proportioning function. The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear drums during hard braking to compensate for the different braking characteristics between disc and drum. This keeps your rear brakes from locking up. It's not needed or desired for drum/drum brakes.
 
Some more links

http://www.theramman.com/disc-conversions-front.html

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=280432

Was able to swap Auto Zone ball joint press for Bruce's 6 1/2 bolt tool for upper control bushing press, although the all-thread tool works. Advance for rotors. NAPA for calipers. Rock Auto for miscellaneous. Will be swapping in LBP 7 1/4 rear. Picked up LBP wheels.

The early drum lower ball joint can be used if you enlarge bolt hole for later model bolts.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=90216

Master cylinder discussion
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=286354
 
rich006 said:
The thing you removed is not a proportioning valve. It's just a distribution block with a pressure switch that controls the brake warning light. It does look similar to the switch/proportioning valve that came with your disc kit, but it doesn't have the proportioning function. The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear drums during hard braking to compensate for the different braking characteristics between disc and drum. This keeps your rear brakes from locking up. It's not needed or desired for drum/drum brakes.
Click to expand...

You're absolutely right!!
That's my novice showing ;)
(I'm learning a lot here, though!)
 
rich006 said:
@ dadscuda
Are you sure you have the 4.5" bolt pattern? Measure from the center of one stud to the far side of one that is "opposite" (google "measure bolt pattern" if I'm not clear) The piece on the right in your second photo is the caliper bracket. The pictures you want are here.
Click to expand...

Omg. You're right.
I had measured & measured & measured. I didn't measure wrong, though, I simply misremembered!
I have everything written down & just checked my notes....it is a 5x4...how embarrassing.
 
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