64 Dart Gt 4 speed won’t shift into gear ??

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dadsbee said:
Why I asked if you could start it IN gear and clutch IN ! Disc is backwards, or the pilot bushing is jammed on the input shaft.
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I’m really hoping it’s not the dam pilot bushing. I don’t know why but putting back the the second time was a pain in the butt
 
sonny64 said:
But I double check it and my mechanic even checked it before and after I installed it and said it was good.
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Well, I'd adjust the rod until there is -0- freeplay, then try it. If it's still no good, You're going to have to yank it, that's all there is to it...then some pics please.
 
sonny64 said:
Would any one have a picture of the disk put on correctly ?
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The offset spring-hub assy. goes towards the rear of the car, into the pressure-plate recess, NOT towards the flywheel recess & crank bolts.
 
Transmission side...
beerestoration2017 076.JPG

Engine side...
beerestoration2017 075.JPG
 
sonny64 said:
I can take a few pictures tomorrow morning and post on here if it helps
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Killer6 said:
The offset spring-hub assy. goes towards the rear of the car, into the pressure-plate recess, NOT towards the flywheel recess & crank bolts.
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Yes, flat part towards the flywheel. The hub towards the transmission. You should be able to see it through the inspection hole.
 
Put the trans in neutral. Parking brake off. Can you roll it? If not, you've got it jammed in two gears. Either your shifter/linkage is installed incorrectly (flipped levers, etc.) or the shift forks (internal, you'll have to open it up) aren't in there right and you're partly engaged in two gears at once.
Also, is this the original engine & transmission combination? if it's not the original engine, the counterbore in the crank may not be deep enough. Even though you said you put in a new pilot bearing (you said it went in tough), it may not have been finish machined to final dimensions- depth or diameter. If it is the original engine and not a replacement, I would suspect an incorrect pilot bearing. Too large of an O.D. being forced into the crank would cause it to compress, binding the input shaft. Parts listings (and the parts themselves) are sadly not that accurate anymore.
My two cents.
 
Professor Fate said:
Put the trans in neutral. Parking brake off. Can you roll it? If not, you've got it jammed in two gears. Either your shifter/linkage is installed incorrectly (flipped levers, etc.) or the shift forks (internal, you'll have to open it up) aren't in there right and you're partly engaged in two gears at once.
Also, is this the original engine & transmission combination? if it's not the original engine, the counterbore in the crank may not be deep enough. Even though you said you put in a new pilot bearing (you said it went in tough), it may not have been finish machined to final dimensions- depth or diameter. If it is the original engine and not a replacement, I would suspect an incorrect pilot bearing. Too large of an O.D. being forced into the crank would cause it to compress, binding the input shaft. Parts listings (and the parts themselves) are sadly not that accurate anymore.
My two cents.
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I’ll try tomorrow to roll it and see what happens if not I’ll have to take it back apart and I’ll put pics up tomorrow as well
 
Professor Fate said:
Put the trans in neutral. Parking brake off. Can you roll it? If not, you've got it jammed in two gears. Either your shifter/linkage is installed incorrectly (flipped levers, etc.) or the shift forks (internal, you'll have to open it up) aren't in there right and you're partly engaged in two gears at once.
Also, is this the original engine & transmission combination? if it's not the original engine, the counterbore in the crank may not be deep enough. Even though you said you put in a new pilot bearing (you said it went in tough), it may not have been finish machined to final dimensions- depth or diameter. If it is the original engine and not a replacement, I would suspect an incorrect pilot bearing. Too large of an O.D. being forced into the crank would cause it to compress, binding the input shaft. Parts listings (and the parts themselves) are sadly not that accurate anymore.
My two cents.
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Yes original engine and transmission
 
sonny64 said:
I’m really hoping it’s not the dam pilot bushing.
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How was the bushing installed and checked for clearance for the .750" input shaft?

Might you have allowed the weight of the trans to hang on the disc spline and possibly bend the hub?

BTW, the FSM calls for grease in the bushing bore prior to installing the trans.

sonny64 said:
I don’t know why but putting back the the second time was a pain in the butt
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They can be especially hard if the disc isn't lined up, the bushing is too tight, the bell not dialed in, or combination of all.
 
I am thinking that you may have damaged the clutch disc. After you take it apart, look closely at the disc, hub would look off. If you had the trans partially in and your arms were tired and you let the trans hang, you may have damaged the disc. Get 2 bolts about 2" long, same size as your trans to bell bolts and cut the heads off. Put these 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes as guides when you reinstall the trans. If and when your arms get tired, they will support the trans. Cut a slot across the cut off end with a hack saw or air cut off, if they come out hard you can use a screwdriver to back them out.
Good luck
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I am thinking that you may have damaged the clutch disc. After you take it apart, look closely at the disc, hub would look off. If you had the trans partially in and your arms were tired and you let the trans hang, you may have damaged the disc. Get 2 bolts about 2" long, same size as your trans to bell bolts and cut the heads off. Put these 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes as guides when you reinstall the trans. If and when your arms get tired, they will support the trans. Cut a slot across the cut off end with a hack saw or air cut off, if they come out hard you can use a screwdriver to back them out.
Good luck
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That's a grat idea.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I am thinking that you may have damaged the clutch disc. After you take it apart, look closely at the disc, hub would look off. If you had the trans partially in and your arms were tired and you let the trans hang, you may have damaged the disc. Get 2 bolts about 2" long, same size as your trans to bell bolts and cut the heads off. Put these 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes as guides when you reinstall the trans. If and when your arms get tired, they will support the trans. Cut a slot across the cut off end with a hack saw or air cut off, if they come out hard you can use a screwdriver to back them out.
Good luck
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Do you mean I might have damaged it when I was installing it ?
 
Well, It's a possibility. Your going to have to take the trans back out, and take a close look at your clutch assy, remove it and look for the issue. Oh, when you installed your Trans, did your arms get tired, you stopped to rest, did you leave the trans half stuck in? If so, the weight of the trans was probably hanging on the clutch disc. That is a guess on my part, but you have to start looking.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Well, It's a possibility. Your going to have to take the trans back out, and take a close look at your clutch assy, remove it and look for the issue. Oh, when you installed your Trans, did your arms get tired, you stopped to rest, did you leave the trans half stuck in? If so, the weight of the trans was probably hanging on the clutch disc. That is a guess on my part, but you have to start looking.
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I had it on my trans jack so I would let it rest on the trans jack
 
Looks backwards to me. It's gotta come out anyway.
 
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