Next to last pic looks like disc is facing correctly, hard to see the offset from that angle, what type of disc is that? It looks awfully thick....
64 Dart Gt 4 speed won’t shift into gear ??
- Thread starter sonny64
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I thought the same thing. Photo #9 looks like there is no hub sticking out. I would also like to see the bearing to finger gap closed up a bit. A 1/4" there could be a inch on the pedal. It shouldn't be touching but it should be close. @sonny64 , adjust that gap and try again.
Yes I loosened the clutch linkage to take the picture
Pilot bushing is fawked...
How can you tell ?
Daves69
Well-Known Member
How was the bushing installed and checked for clearance for the .750" input shaft?
Disc appears correct, so what else is there? You did do the full no gap adjustment and clutch in again correct.. and the roll to make sure it wasn't stuck in 2 gears?
If the engine starts up without a gear being engaged and doesnt move and the pilot shaft doesn't howl, i have doubts it is your pilot bushing if you installed a new one. Could be, but not probable.
Linkage or fork could also be the culprit.
10 or so years ago I had a not obviously cracked clutch fork that flexed and wouldn't push in the three finger clutch pressure plate to release the clutch.
Most recently I had an issue with the old original clutch linkage nut would slip on the adjusting rod and become un-adjusted when the pedal was pressed.
To troubleshoot both took me being under the car, dust cover off and throwout bearing adjusted. a person in the driver's seat to step on the clutch. Watch and see where it gives.
Edit: I've also had welds go bad on the torque shaft (zbar to chevy folk) and had it flex, same thing, pedal pressed and no disengagemnt.
Linkage or fork could also be the culprit.
10 or so years ago I had a not obviously cracked clutch fork that flexed and wouldn't push in the three finger clutch pressure plate to release the clutch.
Most recently I had an issue with the old original clutch linkage nut would slip on the adjusting rod and become un-adjusted when the pedal was pressed.
To troubleshoot both took me being under the car, dust cover off and throwout bearing adjusted. a person in the driver's seat to step on the clutch. Watch and see where it gives.
Edit: I've also had welds go bad on the torque shaft (zbar to chevy folk) and had it flex, same thing, pedal pressed and no disengagemnt.
Thank you and I was looking at my clutch folk and it looked like it was only pushing the top of the throw out bearing but only when I put the spring on. With out the spring the throw out bearing gets pushed evenly
Sounds odd. Both retaining springs on the bearing should be clipped to the clutch fork and the fork's pivot spring in the hole for the pivot.
Adding the clutch linkage spring should not effect the contact of the fork to the bearing.
Adding the clutch linkage spring should not effect the contact of the fork to the bearing.
Yeah I found it strange too but when I looked it was only putting pressure on the top side of the throw out bearing
Not sure whats going on there, may need to pull out the fork check the pivot spring on the fork for any play and movement and check out the pivot bracket and make sure it isnt cracked doesnt flex and reinstall clutch fork.
When someone pushes the clutch pedal with everything adjusted the pressure plate should release the clutch. If it isn't moving its the linkage somewhere between the throwout bearing and the pedal.
If it is moving and you still have the problem, if it were me, I would pull it back out and reinspect it all.
I am pretty sure in the first place I would never buy a clutch assembly from Parts Geeks, yah, no way.
MILO
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem with my 64 dart 4-speed and found that where the z-bar ball stud connects to the frame of the car the frame had a crack and when pushing in the clutch the frame crack would flex not letting the clutch dis-engage I had someone push the clutch in and watched it flex I had a plate welded on the outer side of the frame and where it had fatigued then it was ok the car was rust free from Ca.
"Without a gear being engaged", makes no sense & has nothing to do with making the car move if it's in neutral, only if an input-output brg needle fell in & was jammed between the 2 shafts would the car try to move in neutral. Same with "2 gears at once", the car simply wouldn't move at all, & would stall the engine trying to let the clutch up to move it.
THE INPUT SHAFT IS BEING DRIVEN WITH THE CLUTCH DEPRESSED
1) THE CLUTCH IS NOT BEING RELEASED DUE TO ADJUSTMENT, OR FLEXING/FAILED/WORN/ INCORRECT RELEASE COMPONENTS
2) THE CLUTCH CANNOT BE RELEASED BECAUSE; DISC &/OR COVER ARE WRONG/MISMATCHED; THE HUB IS/WAS DAMAGED & THE DISC IS NOT TRUE ANY LONGER; DISC IS INSTALLED BACKWARDS.
3) SOMETHING OTHER THAN THE DISC IS DRIVING THE INPUT SHAFT; PILOT BUSHING TOO TIGHT/DAMAGED GRABBING INPUT NOSE; SEVERE BELLHOUSING MIS-ALIGNMENT PUTTING A SIDE-LOAD ON & GRABBING INPUT NOSE; USING NON-STOCK FLYWHEEL CAPSCREWS &/OR ADDING WASHERS CAUSING CONTACT WITH DISC HUB.
CUDACOX
Well-Known Member
This happened to mine when doing the 4 speed conversion. pilot bushing was squashed making it oblong instead of round. we tightened it too much, changed it out and all good.
So is there an update on this?
Not sure what you are yelling about. He still hasn't confirmed that whether the clutch is releasing.
I would rather confirm I had to tear it all apart before doing so, wouldn't you??
When you stab a crank with a transmission most know if it's in or not. And whether you are forcing the pilot shaft into the bushing.
I suggested but no one was listening that someone needs to push the clutch in while someone else is watching what is happening through the inspection hole. If the clutch disc is engaged (compressed) with the pedal out and then disengaged when the pedal is depressed, then there is a transmission and not a clutch issue. (a small gap between the flywheel and the disc and/or the pressure plate surface) That's how you diagnose things like this. A process of elimination.
Why not ? It’s was pretty good on the price
The entire trans ?
When I check in the tires only the right side would move not the left but when I pushed it on N the car would move back and forth freely
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