65 Barracuda daily driver

[66fyssh]

I would attempt a new thread with a title such as "what is this called?"

I know there are many folks here who can answer!!!

 

[65barracudaLA]

The only ones I found are these, but for that amount of money I might as well get a complete Mopar shock mount kit.

 

[66fyssh]

@barracudakid do you happen to have any of those for sale?

 

[barracudakid]

@barracudakid do you happen to have any of those for sale?

I would
Front,rear,top,bottom?

 

[66fyssh]

@65barracudaLA. You should PM @barracudakid I bought from him in the past, he's great to deal with and may have what you need.

 

[65barracudaLA]

Thanks for your help @66fyssh & @barracudakid, but: Problem solved...

Also, mystery solved. When I bought the BArracuda in 2009 it had really worn out leaf springs that had leaf spring helpers under them and coil over shocks. The larger diameter of the shocks required that spacer that you see in the next photo and the nuts I was looking for. The spacer moved the shock out enough so it cleared the gas tank.

About 6 years ago I got some ESPO heavy duty leaf springs and had a shop install them along with new Monroe shocks. The must have just rammed the nut on there with an impact and rounding the nut, so it was impossible to get off.

So first cut two slots in the shock eyelet and then hit it with a chisel until it gave up. Then I cut of the rubber and started cutting a into the nut and hit it with the chisel until I could get it to finally move. Luckily I didn't damage the threads and now the new KYB shocks are on. That spacer wasn't necessary anymore and so I could just use regular shock washers and nuts. It's all torqued to spec and now the rear of the car is done. Super happy about that!

Also cleaned up and painted these parts that I'm not sure what they're called. That lower radiator support bracket (?!) was actually never on the car and I've been driving it without the bracket for all these years. I'm sure it serves a purpose, so I want to install it, but there is a broken off bolt in the K-frame and it must be made from hardened steel or something because I can't drill it out. I might to get some diamond or titanium drill bit to finally get it out.

Today I hope to finally wrap up the wiring and then move on to carb, radiator, fluids and distributor. I also still need to install the kick down, gas pedal cable, steering column etc, but I don't need that to fire up the engine...

 

[66fyssh]

That's why I like to rotate my own wheels/tires. Some places just hit it with an impact gun without using a torque stick. Then when you're on the side of the road you can't get get the lugs loose. Damn them shops, lol.

You're making real progress!!!

 

[65barracudaLA]

That's why I like to rotate my own wheels/tires. Some places just hit it with an impact gun without using a torque stick. Then when you're on the side of the road you can't get get the lugs loose. Damn them shops, lol.

You're making real progress!!!

Yeah, that guy worked in my car for the last time. He did a few sketchy things on my Barracuda and I rather buy the tools and/ or learn some new skills before I let someone else touch it. It's a shame because the guy has a '65 Formula S and learned how to drive in a '66 Valiant.

 

[65barracudaLA]

So when I first saw this photo and @66fyssh mentioned that is used to mount the radiator, I thought that with the Champion radiator it would not work.

Then I looked at it again and realized that it adds a lot of stability to the radiator core support.

After a lot of hammering and bending that was not pretty I got it sort of back into place and more importantly: functional:

Not too bad considering how badly bent out of shape it was before:

I've been trying to use the original mount points on the radiator core support and since it's '70 Valiant radiator, I had to modify the holes on the radiator a bit. At least the top ones are pretty close, the radiator is not quite level yet and sits too low, but tomorrow I'll widen the holes a bit more and move on to the bottom ones. Top to bottom is 12" on the '65 radiator core support, but 14" on the '70 radiator. I'll have to drill a new hole in the radiator bracket for the driver side bottom, but before I do that, I want the radiator elsewhere to be perfectly aligned. I must have the radiator in and out at least 15 times today...

 

[66fyssh]

The bracket you reformed looks great! It couldn't have been easy getting it so smooth. Hot roddin' the radiator!!!!

 

[65barracudaLA]

Salma runs!!!

(My neighbors have watched me for months wrench on this car, so they didn't want to miss this moment).

This year we had more rain in L.A. than they had in Seattle, so working on the car was on hold for a while. Also, a few weeks ago a freak accident happened that severely damaged the brand new radiator. It surprisingly holds water, but leaks transmission fluid. I already ordered a new one, but now they are on backorder and Jegs can't even tell me when it might be shipped. There is still a small leak at the 90 degree oil filter adapter that drops straight onto the exhaust. It is just really difficult to get a wrench on that bolt with the exhaust installed.

Anyways, after it started up I adjusted the timing a bit, but I still have to do it right. The shift cable wasn't adjusted correctly, but with the factory service manual it was surprisingly easy and I should have done that when I hooked up the cable. Lesson learned.

I drove it around the block yesterday, but it's still missing the entire front (valance, grille, bumper, etc) and somehow the dash lights don't work, but this is a huge moment. It's my first engine swap ever and the early A-body is certainly not the easiest car to do that. I ran into so many obstacles, but it feels really good to have done it without taking it to a shop to get it finished.

In part it took so long, because I didn't just wanted it run, but I also wanted to improve a lot of things like the wiring and also trying to make it look nice even though it's more of a driver than a show car.

Today I'm gonna work on the grille etc and hopefully I can tighten that stupid 90 degree oil filter adapter bolt so it does't leak. Tomorrow I'm having people over for a BBQ, so the car probably won't be totally road ready this weekend, but what a relief that it actually finally runs!

 

[66fyssh]

Dude, that's awesome!! Quite an accomplishment. I'm sure you'll get the timing and carburetor tweaked. That engine will get the little Barracuda down the road.

BTW, for a moment I thought you didn't have the key in the run position!!

 

[66fyssh]

Oh, and I was able to get a big adjustable wrench on the 90⁰ adapter bolt enough to tighten it.

 

[DC 340]

Congratulations! Nothing like getting motor fired after a whole bunch of work...nothing like it...adrenaline rush. Way to go!!! Last night? : )

 

[65barracudaLA]

Here's a little video of the exhaust - conveniently the camera was knocked over by the H-pipe to offer a different view haha. I was able to get the oil filter adapter bolt tightened a bit more, which seems to have stopped the oil leak. The damaged transmission cooler line fitting is leaking badly as you can see in the video. Jegs told me the radiator is back ordered, but I figured out that only the black version is sold out, but the regular aluminum one is in stock. I'll just paint it myself - better than waiting who knows how long. It does look much better in black for sure!

I drove the car around the neighborhood yesterday, washed it, got gas and put air in the tires. I noticed some issues, but they appear to be fixable.

-When the car is idling in drive, it sounds like the exhaust is touching the body or suspension, so I might have to shim the engine a bit more.

-I must have not sealed one of the driver side exhaust studs enough, so coolant is coming out. I think I might be able to get the stud out without removing the entire manifold.

-The paint on the passenger side manifold, which was not sandblasted, is already starting to bubble. I had applied some naval jelly and wire wheeled it and thought it was good enough, but I will have to take it off and get it blasted and paint it. I have a spare and might use that one. It has a different part number, but the geometry should be identical.

-The shift cable needs to be adjusted a bit more. Sometimes it goes into gear and sometimes you have to wiggle it a bit until it does.

-I still need to get an alignment. The Barracuda already had a rake before the swap, but you can see the added weight of the small block vs the slant and I assume the weight distribution is different as well.

-The Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers are pretty loud and droney when you step on it, so in the long run I might swap them for something a bit quieter. I plan on daily driving the car again soon and go on road trips and it would be nice if one could talk while driving haha.

I hope to get most of this figured out soon, so I can start painting the "new" fenders, hood and deck lid, bolt them on, and make "Salma" look pretty again.

 

[66fyssh]

Sounds great! Sounds a lot like my 5.9 with Dynamax Super Turbos. I don't get a drone though. Give them some time, they may grow on you. Sounds like some small things to work out but nothing you can't handle.

My 5.9.

 

[65barracudaLA]

I haven't really driven it that much and the kickdown needs some adjustment too, so it shifts before it's screaming like that. I might add some sound deadener to the floor, there currently isn't any.

I'm just waiting on the new radiator before I drive it more. Jegs said they'll ship me a bare aluminum one today!

 

[JDMopar]

When/if you paint the radiator, use lacquer paint on the core fins instead of enamel. I had two numbers matching radiators re-cored a while back and the old guy told me 5 times if he told me once, to not use enamel paint on the fins because it is too thick and will cut down the flow. He's been in the radiator business for 50 years, so I'm gonna take him at his word....lol.

 

[65barracudaLA]

When/if you paint the radiator, use lacquer paint on the core fins instead of enamel. I had two numbers matching radiators re-cored a while back and the old guy told me 5 times if he told me once, to not use enamel paint on the fins because it is too thick and will cut down the flow. He's been in the radiator business for 50 years, so I'm gonna take him at his word....lol.

I was wondering about that - that is very helpful advice!

 

[65barracudaLA]

Well, I got the radiator from Jegs, but it had some bent fins and has definitely been used. I couldn't wait any longer, so I transferred the holes over from the (transmission fluid) leaking rad and painted it black. I haven't filled any fluid yet, because I also had to put some thread sealer on a stud and a bolt at the outer exhaust manifold mounts. The head has a heli coil where the stud goes, so I didn't dare to tighten the nut more than 10 ft/lbs. There was no exhaust leak, just a water leak before, so I hope that will be fine.

Another transmission fluid leak was at the dipstick. The tube off the slant six interfered with the exhaust manifold, the tube that came with the small block 904 was too short for the 3 dipsticks that I now have, so I at first extended the tube with a piece of the slant tube, but it leaked from there.

So, I took one of the dipsticks and drilled a little hole for a cotter pin where the short tube ends and another to hold the cap in place. Let's see how that works haha. I will also check at the Mopar Spring Fling this weekend, how long a '65 A-body small block 904 dipstick/ tube needs to be.

The Chrysler Performance West Spring Fling in Van Nuys, CA is 2 days and on one of the days I want to go (in my Jeep) to sell off my tons of extra parts that I don't need, but I would love to drive the Barracuda there the next day.

 

[JDMopar]

Mancini sells them if you don't find one at Spring Fling. They list as 66-74, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I had to drill and tap one of the end holes in my 360 in my Challenger to the next size bigger stud. Hopefully your sealer will stop the drip.
904 Torqueflight Indicator & Tube Assembly

 

[65barracudaLA]

So on Saturday I went to Spring Fling in Woodley Park, Van Nuys, CA - the longest distance I've driven the car with the small block so far. This is unfortunately the only photo I took. I took it to send it to my buddy to tell him that I parked near his '74 Charger (the one on the right). Jay Leno walked by and looked at my car for about 2 seconds before he was approached by some folks who wanted to take a photo with him haha.

The car ran well, but there are still some issues. One is that the exhaust still made contact with the suspension and so there are some noises and vibration. I was able to shim the engine a bit more yesterday, moved some stuff around and it now seams to clear everything, but haven't started the engine yet to test. In part, because I still have the holy trifecta of leaks. The exhaust stud still leaks coolant pretty badly and it drips down on the starter which can't be good. There is a massive transmission fluid leak that I haven't been able to locate. The passenger side exhaust pipe was touching the transmission pan (not anymore), so that could have been the culprit. We'll see. And then there is an oil leak at the fuel pump. When I was bolting the engine back together after painting it and replacing all gaskets (except head gasket) that the bolt hole that goes into the timing cover was kinda stripped. I was hoping it was good enough and forgot about it. I will probably put a helicoil in there,but I wish I had done that when the radiator was out of the car last week. Oh well.

There is also a little lifter tick or pinging when you step on the gas. I haven't messed with the carburetor at all yet and it's still simply rebuilt to stock specs. I'm sure ignition timing will still need some adjustments.

First I need to take care of those damn leaks!

 

[65barracudaLA]

Mancini sells them if you don't find one at Spring Fling. They list as 66-74, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I had to drill and tap one of the end holes in my 360 in my Challenger to the next size bigger stud. Hopefully your sealer will stop the drip.
904 Torqueflight Indicator & Tube Assembly

Unfortunately it's sold out and I think I had seen it before and it's been sold out for a while.

 

[65barracudaLA]

Someone did take a photo of "Salma" at her first car show!

 

[66fyssh]

Sweet!!