65 Barracuda stopped running.

[averagejimmie]

So, I was going to work, running down the road when my car quit. Since then, I can only turn the engine over - no spark. The caveat to this is that the ignition was converted to the more modern electronic ignition system. It is using the double ballast resistor and the 5-pin ignition module.

I too was having an over-voltage problem. I was running at 14.5V. In the interim, I changed out the VR for the newer style VR with the triangular plug-in. (I know this not to be the problem), just giving all the parameters. Any help out there?

 

[TrailBeast]

There is a test for the factory style ignition box than involves one wire and you should get a spark from the coil.
Unfortunately I don't know exactly what the procedure is, but someone here will.

 

[averagejimmie]

There is a test for the factory style ignition box than involves one wire and you should get a spark from the coil.
Unfortunately I don't know exactly what the procedure is, but someone here will.

Always appreciate the input. Thank you.

 

[jpontious]

is the distributor spinning while you are cranking? do you have voltage to the coil?

 

[AJ/FormS]

Yeah pop the cap and make sure the rotor spins when cranking.
Then we have the one spark test
and then I have the pick-up bypass test

The one spark test goes like this: pull the center tower wire out of the cap and near-ground it. Have a helper cycle the key from on to off. It should spark every time, one spark. If it doesn't,look for voltage at the coil+ (as already mentioned).If you got voltage at the coil,clean the ECU ground, and retest.Still no spark ? check for voltage at the ECU supply ballast. Voltage there means the ECU has power and ground, but fails the one-spark test so either; it's toasted or the coil is.
But if it passes the one spark test, then everything is good except we have to prove the pick-up is good and that the reluctor gap is good. The pick up will work with almost any gap between Zero and .025. So if you are in that range it's gonna be alright.(I think spec is .008 to .011) That just leaves the Pick-up. So pull it off there. Leave it plugged in.Find the end that passes by the reluctor. With the key in run;Give it a quick slap with a small screwdriver. It should spark every time you slap it.Do it a couple of times. sometimes it works better if you draw the screwdriver over the sandwhich.Still no spark; Either the sensor is toast or the coil is. To verify which, we now have the pick-up bypass test.
With the key off, take everything off the coil -, and put a jumper wire on there,long enough to reach the rad. Grab a long coarse file and lay it on a good ground. With the key on, drag the end of the wire along the file. A stream of sparks should issue from that near-grounded coil wire.That proves everything still in circuit is working, so repace the pick-up. Badaboom
But a no spark now, means a bad coil or a bad ECU.
To figure out which, with the key off,take everything off the Coil +, and bring battery voltage over to it. With the key still off, repeat the dragging wire routine. Sparks now means the coil is ok, and by process of elimination, the ECU is bad.
Tip; If you are running an Orange box, you should carry a spare ECU at all times, and also a spare ballast. Any 5-pinner will get you home.A simple substitution, will usually get you moving in under 5 minutes, and you will be a hero.

 

[averagejimmie]

Yeah pop the cap and make sure the rotor spins when cranking.
Then we have the one spark test
and then I have the pick-up bypass test

The one spark test goes like this: pull the center tower wire out of the cap and near-ground it. Have a helper cycle the key from on to off. It should spark every time, one spark. If it doesn't,look for voltage at the coil+ (as already mentioned).If you got voltage at the coil,clean the ECU ground, and retest.Still no spark ? check for voltage at the ECU supply ballast. Voltage there means the ECU has power and ground, but fails the one-spark test so either; it's toasted or the coil is.
But if it passes the one spark test, then everything is good except we have to prove the pick-up is good and that the reluctor gap is good. The pick up will work with almost any gap between Zero and .025. So if you are in there it's gonna be alright. That just leaves the Pick-up. So pull it off there. Leave it plugged in.Find the end that passes by the reluctor. With the key in run;Give it a quick slap with a small screwdriver. It should spark every time you slap it.Do it a couple of times. sometimes it works better if you draw the screwdriver over the sandwhich.Still no spark; Either the sensor is toast or the coil is. To verify which, we now have the pick-up bypass test.
With the key off, take everything off the coil -, and put a jumper wire on there,long enough to reach the rad. Grab a long coarse file and lay it on a good ground. With the key on, drag the end of the wire along the file. A stream of sparks should issue from that near-grounded coil wire.That proves everything still in circuit is working, so repace the pick-up. Badaboom
But a no spark now, means a bad coil or a bad ECU.
To figure out which, with the key off,take everything off the Coil +, and bring battery voltage over to it. With the key still off, repeat the dragging wire routine. Sparks now means the coil is ok, and by process of elimination, the ECU is bad.
Tip; If you are running an Orange box, you should carry a spare ECU at all times, and also a spare ballast. Any 5-pinner will get you home.A simple substitution, will usually get you moving in under 5 minutes, and you will be a hero.

Thank you! This is great information.

 

[AJ/FormS]

YABUT did it work?
If yes, you're welcome.
If no,I wanna know why.
Good luck!