mygasser
Well-Known Member
there are lots of factory manual adjustable lumbar supports too that you could pirate, might save you some wiring.
neil.
neil.
65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
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Thanks! With constructing the underdash wiring from scratch and working on a modified engine compartment harness. Guess Another wire or two from this unit is not gonna make a difference. Plus I bought it maybe 2 years ago
It’s been awhile since I’ve updated this thread all because of the wiring! Since I have to move the radio to the dash (no room under the AC vent), that meant I needed to find a new home for the heated seat switches, the Fasten Seat Belt and Door Ajar warning lights and move the Dakota Digital modules someplace where they wouldn’t interfere with anything else. As this wiring is loosely based in a J Body harness, it’s definitely a custom harness!
The Heat Seat Switches:
I have decided to mount the heated seat switches on the side of the console where they’ll basically blend in with the black console base. I can mount their relays Under the top plate and run their power/ground wires with the other harnesses (console courtesy lights and power windows switch) I’ve already run.
The Door Ajar and Fasten Seat Belt warning lights.
Originally I was going to use these in the dash but with the radio now needing to go there, I found these little round ones which ought to be easier to find a home for them
I needed to relocate all 3 of the Dakota Digital relays
And the PAC1300 module
Which required extensively reworking what I’m calling the rat’s nest of the underdash wiring
this has required shortening some wires and adding new replacement wires with most requiring new Packard 56 connectors- all crimped and soldered of course. I am almost finished checking (and double checking) every wire to make sure it’s going to and from where it’s supposed to go before I wrap it - definitely a tedious and time consuming job!.
Then I found I will have a problem with the fuse panel I was going to use.
It uses miniature spade fuses and will not accept a circuit breaker which I want for the power windows, power tailgate window and power seat. I have sourced another fuse panel from Bussman I don’t work on it everyday so it’s taking quite awhile to wrap this project ip
The Heat Seat Switches:
The Door Ajar and Fasten Seat Belt warning lights.
I needed to relocate all 3 of the Dakota Digital relays
And the PAC1300 module
Which required extensively reworking what I’m calling the rat’s nest of the underdash wiring
this has required shortening some wires and adding new replacement wires with most requiring new Packard 56 connectors- all crimped and soldered of course. I am almost finished checking (and double checking) every wire to make sure it’s going to and from where it’s supposed to go before I wrap it - definitely a tedious and time consuming job!.
Then I found I will have a problem with the fuse panel I was going to use.
It uses miniature spade fuses and will not accept a circuit breaker which I want for the power windows, power tailgate window and power seat. I have sourced another fuse panel from Bussman I don’t work on it everyday so it’s taking quite awhile to wrap this project ip
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JDMopar
Well-Known Member
You have the exact same soldering gun that I do! 
It's weird, but even though I've spent my whole adult life building and repairing 23 thousand volt power lines....I hate having to do wiring in my cars! 
I guess it's cause the wires are so little, and having to figure out where they go that drives me nuts! Keep up the good work Don!
It's weird, but even though I've spent my whole adult life building and repairing 23 thousand volt power lines....I hate having to do wiring in my cars! I guess it's cause the wires are so little, and having to figure out where they go that drives me nuts! Keep up the good work Don!
The heat seat swiches would look great on the consol. Will you still be able to use the floor lights?
Yes to the console lights. I’ve already routed the harness to the driver’s side along with the power window switch harness. I will likely mount the switches on each side 4 or 5 inches forward of the lights or whatever will work best for ease of getting to them.
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Whoo Hoo! I was notified by Waldron Exhaust my exhaust is done and will be shipping tomorrow. Lead time was 8 to 12 weeks - just about 8 weeks to the day. Another piece of the puzzle coming together!
Hi Don. They do great work!! I used their exhaust on my 65. Sgrip65
what did you get - single, duals or Commando exhaust?
Hi Don. I bought their exhaust kit which included the crossover, then to a single exhaust with the muffler. The kit was the "commando" exhaust, but, at the time, they were not able to provide the resonator.....I found a "near new" resonator on ebay. At the time, the resonator was unavailable from their supplier. I remember the sound from my Dart Charger back in the early 70's...nothing else sounds like that exhaust system. Amazing what you have done with that California car. Sgrip65.
I ordered the Commando system for the 106in WB cars (Barracudas, Valiants, and of course the early A wagons). Ruth (co-owner) told me they had some resonators in stock BUT appearance-wise, they were somewhat different than an original. Because of that, they were priced considerably less than the repros found on eBay. Since the wagon is so modified, it didn’t much matter to me if the resonator was a little different as long as it worked and provided that great Comnando exhaust sound. With ithe system arriving soon, I will be able to install the O2 sensor in a suitable location.
Can I say WHOO HOO in caps! Received the exhaust from Waldrons yesterday. The system consists of the crossover, the headpipe, muffler, over the axle pipe and resonator. I paid extra on the shipping to get the headpipe in one piece rather than 2 pieces and which would require it to be welded together on site. Original exhausts were not mandrel bent and neither is this system. The crossover is 1 & 7/8th per original; the rest of the system is 2.5 inches. I’m satisfied with this exhaust. Obligatory pic of the crossover and over-the-axle pipe which is basically on top of the crossover
Hi Don. So very nice are the Waldron's exhaust parts. Did you find a resonator? Or are you going straight out the back. Keep up the great work. Sgrip65
Looks like nice stuff. You will love the sound.
Glad to see more progress on this. When you're done, you gotta come take me to the Dairy Queen.
A Butterfinger Blizzard please.
ooo they got a new one now. Nestle's Tollhouse. lol
Dang, gotta try that one!
I had one yesterday. I think it would be better with chocolate ice cream instead of vanilla. I will get my next one that way. lol
Yes on the resonator! I bought one from them that they weren’t happy about selling at full price. Supposedly something to do with the appearance. In the past I’ve owned a NOS 65 and a used one dated 67 and this one looks the same to the best of my recollection. It’s definitely a straight through design and has that special stainless steel (?) or maybe chrome square cut tip.
Back in 65 when I was 20 or so, i heard a Barracuda coming down the street. What a sweet sounding exhaust. I’m looking forward to hearing it on mine!
I doubt I’ll ever get down your way but if I do, we’re on for DQ. There was a DQ 5 or 6 miles from us at a truck stop. Jokers closed it and reopened as a Taco Bell. Now the closest DQ is over 25 miles away. Make mine an Oreo with pecans and we’re good!
Yes, the resonator/exhaust on those Early A-Bodies sure have a sound of their own. Sweet sound for sure. I have said it before.....nothing else sounds like that....nice. Sgrip65
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Good progress, the last work takes the longest to do it right.
I have started working on the underdash wiring again - yes - I am a glutton for punishment. I needed to relocate the fuse panels and Dakota Digital modules. My wife asked if they could be installed like I’m doing with the 47’s wiring - inside the glove box. I thought about how I could do this since the 65’s liner is just cardboard. I decided I could add a metal back as I did on the 47’s liner. I took a ratty spare line and cut about 3 inches off the back. The cutdown liner and the remainder of the back. Am only using it for a pattern.
I fabricated a metal back to fit the cut down liner. Once satisfied with the fit, I took a near mint liner and cut it down so it was square (not like the one pictured! I did the cutout for the Eaton fuse panel, primed and painted it and fastened it to the liner with stainless steel hardware. No separate pics of the panel - sorry! Got the fuse panels installed and installed the liner to the dash.
I decided to use the Eaton fuse panel since one side will be hot all the time and the other hot in the run/ACC position.
Yes there’s a separate fuse panel to the right of the Eaton for separate fuses for the Hazard and turn signal flashers, radio light and gages, which is all based on the modified J Body harness I’m using. I still need to move and install the relays from Dakota Digital close to the glove box
as well as this control box that automatically turns the headlights on or off based on the ambient light.
I should get these installed in the next day or so then start the rewire
I fabricated a metal back to fit the cut down liner. Once satisfied with the fit, I took a near mint liner and cut it down so it was square (not like the one pictured! I did the cutout for the Eaton fuse panel, primed and painted it and fastened it to the liner with stainless steel hardware. No separate pics of the panel - sorry! Got the fuse panels installed and installed the liner to the dash.
I decided to use the Eaton fuse panel since one side will be hot all the time and the other hot in the run/ACC position.
as well as this control box that automatically turns the headlights on or off based on the ambient light.
I should get these installed in the next day or so then start the rewire
ha, that's funny. i picked up the same fuse panel and had started to mock it up in the glove box when i got side tracked with the P/S install. are you going to build pigtails to plug everything into or just wire directly to the panel?
I am going to wire anything that needs to go through a fuse directly to the hot or run/ACC sides. Hot side includes the parking lights, the brake light switch, and the lighter all on separate fuses. Some other hot wires tie into one or more of these hot wires are the hot side of the courtesy lights, time delay relay, chime, and main headlight swich hot, etc. Other stuff that will have separate hot fuses is the relays, power seat (circuit breaker) and power lumbar support. On the run/ACC side I will have the heater blower switch, power windows (circuit breaker), heated seat relays, and certain circuits for the Dakota Digital components. The turn signal switch has it’s own separate fuse from the ignition switch as does the Hazard warming switch. These fuses are located in the separate fuse panel. There’s a couple of other separate circuits as well.
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