66 dart with 360 ...what manifolds or headers?

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340duster340

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i am planning on putting a 360 in my 66 dart, what factory manifolds will work for this, or alternatively, are there any headers that will fit? not opposed to cutting fender walls, but would like to do this as a last resort.

i have the original 273 manifolds, but these are prob a little restrictive for the 360

also have a set of 318 manifolds from a 74 dart, but not sure if these would flow much better.

anyways, what are you guys running for this combo?

 
certain year heads with the smog holes or the pad for the smog holes below the exhaust ports will have an interference issue if you use the 273 manifolds on the last port on the drivers side
 
Not too much of a choice for you on a 1966 Dart.Do you have power steering?
Hooker headers are fenderwell headers.TTI and Dougs are long tubed under car headers.
I am in the process of making mandrel bent custom performance headers that will be out in December 2011.
 
the 340 hip po manifolds will work nicely,i have no experience with the dakota manifolds
 
if you can find a set of spitfire headers ( they pop up fro sale from time to time) they are a good compromise. better then the 340 manifolds and not as good as the full length header. and probably one of the cheaper ways to go. guess it all depends on what your doing with the car.
 
thanks for the feed back guys.

i want to keep the car stock looking so manifolds would be good, does anyone have pics of the 340 manifolds in an early A?

also yes i do have power steering; and plan to keep it
 
I ran the 68-69 hp 340 manifolds in a 66 dart i had a few yrs back. Were on a mild 71 360 with mag heads. Had to grind a little on the driver side head for the manifold to bolt down properly, the earlier heads are cast with a notch, so shouldnt be a prob. Had a 904 in mine, and could only use the 'old style' starter. No mini. The drop pipe was also a bit tricky to have bent and get bolted to manifold flange. It will also be very close to the torsion bar on the ds, so be prepared to adjust the motor mounts. The stock column/rod shift fit no prob. The 90* oil filter adapter is needed too if you dont already have it.
They flow quite well for manifolds, and will get you a lot of compliments. I prefer them over 'harolds tubular manifolds' aka spitfire.
I went with the tti's on my 66 valiant, and am very pleased with them. Best to pull the motor and put the trans, and headers in first, then the motor, then the mounts/brackets as the steering column and torsion bars pass thru the tubes. Cable shift and mini starter for 904, clockable mini for 727 with tti's in early a.
The earlier Fender wells open up a whole new can of worms, tire size is limited just to begin.
I've only run the 68-69 340 manifolds and the tti's on the 3 66 a bodies i have had, for a mostly stock, mild driver i would go for the 340 manifolds. Expect to pay $300-$600 for them dep on seller and condition.
I got 12.80s on motor with them with a 9:1 360, mag heads, cheap summit cam, air gap and 3.23 gears so they cant be all that bad!
 
I just finished fabbing my exhaust with 360 manifolds off a C-body (25 bucks for the pair).
A Borgeson coupler and U-joint. With a small amount of heating the engine pipe flange and dinging it for clearence at the coupler.
2.25" mandrel bends cut and welded.

DSCF4167.jpg

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I used 68 340 dart manifolds on my 66 dart wagon, wit a 72' 360 auto...had to grind a lil on tha steer'in box when I went to power steer'in!!....
 
Thanks for the pictures, did you notch the x-member for duals?

Sitting on the train right now on the way to work but reading thru the thread and looking at the pics makes me want to go work in the garage...
 
They fit nice, I made mine a little longer on the ends then had them coated. MOE
 

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Check out the Dakota logs. Flow good and are cheap. Early are better and bigger. Those C body 360's are new to me, look just fine! I modded some large tube Hookers from a 68,not much needed to make 'em fit, but it would help greatly if you could mount the motor 2 inches farther back when it comes down to clearance for the pitman.idler arms. Not easy, but it does highlight that problem area.
 
pishta said:
Check out the Dakota logs. Flow good and are cheap. Early are better and bigger. Those C body 360's are new to me, look just fine! I modded some large tube Hookers from a 68,not much needed to make 'em fit, but it would help greatly if you could mount the motor 2 inches farther back when it comes down to clearance for the pitman.idler arms. Not easy, but it does highlight that problem area.
Click to expand...

Here are some interesting flow tests, I think:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/exhaust/9.html

and, this one:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...pp_0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/index.html
 
hi guys, finally getting around to installing the 340 HIPO manifolds.

are any of you using the stock auto column shifter linkage with the 340 manifolds?

thanks,
 
abodyjoe said:
if you can find a set of spitfire headers ( they pop up fro sale from time to time) they are a good compromise. better then the 340 manifolds and not as good as the full length header. and probably one of the cheaper ways to go. guess it all depends on what your doing with the car.
Click to expand...

Laysons sells the spitfire headers checked on them not long ago "few months"
 
340duster340 said:
hi guys, finally getting around to installing the 340 HIPO manifolds.

are any of you using the stock auto column shifter linkage with the 340 manifolds?

thanks,
Click to expand...

I thought the 340s wouldn't work on early A body- let us know how it works out-
 
Gib Warnick said:
I thought the 340s wouldn't work on early A body- let us know how it works out-
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Well, back in 1972 I had a 1964 Valiant, 2-door post (sedan) and a 1971 340 engine out of a (1971) Demon, had the manifolds bolted to the engine, had the engine supported with a cherry picker and decided to drop her into the engine bay and in doing so, encountered solid interference on BOTH sides as the engine slid into place.... it was too wide for the compartment. I did manage to get it into place, but once on the mounts, the cast iron manifolds were solid against the inner fender panels on BOTH sides... I had to pull it out and replace the manifolds with some cheap, fender-well Hedman headers. That worked well, but entailed butchering the inner fender panels.

Just my 2-cents...
 
I just did this swap but it was a 318 I put in. I did a ton of research on this and from what I found, the only things that works, particularly on the drivers side, is the exhaust manifold from an early A body V8 or headers. I even have power steering and the manifolds cleared.

If someone on here actually has 340 or Dakota manifolds on there early A, I would love to see some picks. I would love to get rid of my manifolds because they are terribly restrictive but I want to see first hand stuff, not "a friend of a friend said".

Also, as I believe someone mentioned earlier, if you use later smog heads, they have air injector pads right below the exhaust ports that need to be ground off before the manifolds will bolt on. Dennis
 
hi all, started a thread in the members restoration section and have posted pictures of the 340 manifolds vs. stock ones.

also laid the 340 manifold in there, it will fit, but not with power steering.

check out the other thread for picture and details
 
340duster340 said:
hi all, started a thread in the members restoration section and have posted pictures of the 340 manifolds vs. stock ones.

also laid the 340 manifold in there, it will fit, but not with manual steering.

check out the other thread for picture and details
Click to expand...


not with manual steering or do you mean power steering?
 
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